Is your pump always on or does it cycle on and off? Oe pump is designed to cycle on and off, sometimes quickly, using that pwm wire. If the new pump stays on anytime the key is on pos2 or engine running then it's running 100% duty cycle, which is how I run mine, but it's not what the ecu expects and hence the code.

 

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yes I got you , but is your cat still throwing cells since you are using only 2 wires instead of 3.

And what is the cell code

Thx

 

Yes the same code is always present. No cel though. I'll run it again when I can and post it.....car is currently mid project and the batt is not hooked up but I should be finished in a day or two.

 

Hi
can someone who has done this help me out
The reservoir if you split it away from engine coolant should that not have a inlet and outlet for the water to circulate similar to a swirl pot
Tks

 

I had all the outlets/inlets on my res capped accept for the one going to the HX of course...but I eventually took the res out and rejoined the systems as I was not sure what unintended consequences might arise from divorcing the systems. If the main cooling system is open to the awic cooling system, then it's also pressurizing the awic cooling system as we know it maintains about 16 psi of pressure. I don't know what consequences, if any, removing that pressure has but figured it best not to mess with it and I haven't seen much change going back to the joined system

 

Many thanks so if I add the other heat exchanger how do I route the pipes please

 

Post #19 in this thread should explain everything

 

Have to wonder how much benefit you are getting, as it looks like you are blocking the lower half of your radiator. I live in FL, so I think we have pretty much the same issue, have you been in stop and go traffic and if so, how was it?

 

It doesn't block any more of the radiator than the oe HX blocks. It sits very low and is actually getting most of its air from the lower slit in the grill above the spoiler whereas the radiator is fed by the main opening, which doesn't have the crash bar. I feel like the air flow is very strong across the board but absolutely nothing to quantify that tbh. So far so good is all I can say.

 

For what it's worth: I have an '11 XFR and I recently replaced the OE supercharger radiator with a larger one from Alisport (same as from Paramount, etc.), I added a second auxiliary radiator to the driver's side (OE on middle-eastern cars, XFR-S, etc.), as my car only came with one auxiliary radiator (passenger side), and I also added an additional half-height heat exchanger to the very front. I also went to new K&N cone-shaped air filters in combination with my triple-wrapped Mina intake tube because WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE (I’d previously used the Mina tube with OE airboxes and K&N panel filters but never got any fun SC whine). I'd already installed the uprated Bosch pump years ago but had to raise/mount it many inches above its intended perch to make room for the new front-mounted HX. I didn't divorce the systems because I wanted to play around with this current setup before deciding if it was warranted in my situation. I didn't upgrade or add fans, because replacing the OE fan seems like it would’ve been a lot of work and adding additional fans seems like they would impede airflow once the car started moving at all, and I don’t own this car to putter around. I didn’t want to do a Killer Chiller or similar because I NEED my A.C. to function at 100% inside the cabin at all times. However, I did install a methanol kit. I also cut out rectangular sections of my wheel arch liners and removed the foam pads behind them, as well as the black plastic perforated sections of the side "power vents" on the quarter panels for better heat dissipation from the engine bay, while also potentially helping to cool the front brakes (I might also play around with some ducts and vortex generators for better air routing). As an additional data point, I don't have the engine cover or hood blanket installed (removed both many years ago).

Unfortunately, I didn't do any baseline temperature recordings prior to doing all of this work, because I only decided to do it all after my water pump blew, at which point I also decided to replace the timing chain guides/tensioners, spark plugs/coil packs, rebuild the SC, replace the thermostat, plastic pipes, hoses (even re-route a few; ex., the hose that went under the SC now goes around it), etc. In an ideal world, I would've done all of the work in stages, so I could monitor the individual and then collective effects of all of this "stuff," but I didn't have the time or energy to do all of that. Plus, I hadn't driven it for years prior to doing all of the work, so can't remember how fast it previously got up to temp, what usual operating temp was, etc. The only thing I can contribute is how it “feels” now, as well as monitoring temps from OBD readers. I'm still playing around with understanding SC boost levels after also installing new upper and lower pulleys (reading boost from a mechanical gauge, as well as OBD, and pretty sure I need a new tune, ASAP).

But here's what I'll say I think I'm seeing from the effects of all of the new cooling hardware. For reference, I live in Hotlanta and it’s currently late July. Forget about the methanol for a minute… I feel like the car gets warmer faster and, if just sitting in the carpool line or fast-food drive thru for several minutes or more, or in bumper to bumper traffic, I feel like the car does run a little warmer than it previously had, obviously due to no air being pushed through the additional cooling surfaces from lack of movement and the fan not being able to pull as much air through the thicker Alisport SC radiator and new half-height HX. It could also be that that even the Bosch pump might not be great at moving all of that liquid fast enough through the increased gear. My intake temps also start to rise, as I haven’t yet finished the shielding for my open-air intake filters (not sure if I’ll bother), and they’re just pulling in hot engine air when the car isn’t moving.

But the combined effects of all of this different hardware is not an extreme difference, like it’s being completely choked or something. And, when the car starts moving even slowly and I'm not totally thrashing it, it definitely starts to cool off a LOT faster. The only time when I started to worry a little was when I’d just finished all of the work and I was doing multiple hard runs on back roads, and then having to sit still for extended periods at stoplights or whatever, immediately after. Without air moving through all of the new hardware, it’s clearly not as effective, and might even be a detriment to city driving. But the car always eventually cooled down, even when sitting in traffic, as long as I stopped redlining it repeatedly for a few minutes, and if I drive it like most “normal” people, the temps never approach anything near worrying levels. Now, if I didn’t have methanol, I would probably even invest in a higher flowing pump (Pierburg, etc.), and I still might because I like working on things. And, obviously, additional or more powerful fans would also help the static air issue.

However, all of this is predicated upon where and how the car is driven. If one is planning on just screaming from long stoplight to long stoplight or repeated ¼ mile dragstrip runs, with no cooldown driving between, it’s probably not the ideal setup. I’d say that the car was never meant for that, anyway, which is why I have my 450 HP Audi S3 that’s also been heavily modded and is basically a 4-door go-kart. Where my XFR setup really shines and will completely walk my S3 is when it’s being driven hard for extended periods/miles at higher speeds which provide plenty of airflow the whole time, like mountain roads, highways, etc. In those scenarios, this setup allows me to drive the car incredibly hard without ever worrying about overheating, etc.

But, and you knew it was coming… HERE COMES THE METH!!! Even when screaming from stoplight to stoplight or just completely ******* it out without letting it cool down through airflow, when I turn the meth controller on, all of that high temp nonsense just goes away immediately. The meth controller is wired to the accelerator pedal (thanks to @Therock88 ), so when I turn the controller on, the meth starts progressively spraying when I push the pedal further and further down, and then I can count to about 2-3 before I see the temps drop drastically on the OBD reader, so I'm completely back in the game. Hell, 95+% of the time I'm driving, I don't even have the meth controller turned on, but when it's go-time and I'm in a pinch, I'm happy it's there.

So, for where and how I drive my car, my total setup definitely works well for me and I’m very happy I did it. I hope all of that makes sense and maybe provides some additional details with appropriate context about the pros & cons of adding cooling hardware to these engines/cars.

 

@kevork87 Did you ever get the Pierburg working without throwing codes? I'm interested, in case I upgrade to a Pierburg.

@Gasman2 Did you figure out the hose routing? I can probably help you understand better, if you're still questioning.

 

Hi I was thinking out of orig heat exchange and into top of new one and then out of the bottom of new one and into the return on the pump then out the pump to the charge coolers?

 

@Gasman2 As long as the flow direction is maintained, it should work fine. I think mine goes from the Allisport HX (replaced the OE "charge air radiator" or "supercharger radiator" - what the workshop manual calls it) into the charge pump (Bosch), then from the charge pump into the new smaller aftermarket HX, and then from the new smaller aftermarket HX into the normal continued path (into hose C2Z4544). I haven't had any issues running it this way through the larger Allisport supercharger radiator, added second auxiliary radiator, and additional smaller aftermarket HX, but I suspect that the Bosch pump probably isn't quite up to the task, if pushed hard, so I'll likely either replace the Bosch with a Pierburg or maybe just add another Bosch into the flow somewhere.

 

Fyi the Bosch is a 20 year old design that doesn't flow much better than OE, which is rated about the same as a Peirburg cwa50. I would upgrade to the cwa150 asap.

 

Agreed, which is only slightly worse than the ZZP, which is why I didn't go that route, either. The only thing stopping me from going the Pierburg route already is that I know nothing about how it'll play with my existing wiring, etc. The simplicity and low cost of the Bosch is why I was also considering just potentially adding a second Bosch into the loop, if the power/wiring could support it. But, after all of the work I already did under that hood over the past year, and am still doing on the interior (replacing alcantara on the headliner, sunroof panel, rear parcel deck, pillars, visors, and switching out the handles and other associated hardware, etc.), I'm not in a huge hurry to pull the front bumper back off anytime soon. Ha-ha!

 

So this is my plan
obviously with hoses cut to size
Out of bottom of first heat exchanger and into top of second one
Then out from bottom into pump return(pierburg 150,) then out from pump to the 2 top intercoolers

Water meth dual injectors in the lid boost operated on and off points

 

I think you know what you're doing. The only thing I'll add regarding the meth is to make sure you have a solenoid AND a check valve (for hopeful redundancy) near the spray nozzles. At one point, I had an issue with almost my entire 1 gallon meth tank being siphoned under vacuum into the engine at idle for no reason, and it confused the hell out of me while it was happening. I couldn't figure out why my engine was idling so weirdly and it ultimately triggered lean codes for every single cylinder, etc. Luckily, I shut the engine down when I finally realized what was happening, but it could've hydrolocked the engine (thrown a rod) and I had to change the oil immediately after, which I'd just done a few weeks before. I have an AEM solenoid to prevent siphoning under vacuum, but it still happened for some reason. I think it must've been the AEM controller geeking out because I've checked and rechecked the solenoid while the meth controller is turned off, and the solenoid seems to be working great. But because I couldn't figure out exactly why it happened, and didn't feel like spending 50 hours troubleshooting, I added a check valve with 16 PSI of crack pressure after the solenoid, but before the spray nozzles. It hasn't happened again, and I'm not sure it's because of anything I did, because I'm pretty sure if the AEM controller started squirting, both the solenoid and check valve would open. Now, though, I always leave the meth controller off unless I'm driving hard, which automatically closes the solenoid, but if the solenoid ever breaks or malfunctions, I hope the check valve handles business to prevent siphoning while just idling, at least. Just food for thought...

 

Hope so 😂

 

I am fitting the snow performance check valve and the snow upgrade solenoid so double safe

If the pierburg is running at 100 per cent will this not push coolant around too fast for intercoolers to drop the temps

 

I'm certainly no expert, but you'd have to somehow monitor coolant flow to even know where to begin making an assessment, in addition to lots of real-world IAT data logging and analysis. But, we all know that logging in identical atmospheric scenarios with identical coolant brands and percentages can be very tricky, so it's still going to be less empirical than everyone would probably prefer. However, I've recently been reading a LOT about divorced systems on tons of cars, including flow characteristics, etc., and am pretty sure that a Pierburg CWA 50 actually comes as OE on some older supercharged Audis, and (in search of better cooling) a lot of those Audi owners have been upgrading them to more powerful Pierburgs to run 100% of the time with great success. They're obviously a lot different than our engines, but just sayin'...

I too am going to play around with the pump(s), but I'm going to try a different option than Pierburg. Because I already have a Bosch pump and a lot of additional hardware installed, and I was able to purchase an additional (identical) Bosch pump for about $100 (rather than the $300+ for Pierburgs, etc.) which only draws "just under 4.5 amps at a rating of 1,400 l/hr @ 0.3 bar," I'm going to try dual Bosch pumps in series, placed at opposite ends of the loop and both running 100% full-time, to see what happens. I also bought some pressure valves and ball valves, just in case I need to release pressure or slow down the flow, but I'm not planning on using either, initially (see image I posted below for thoughts on fast flow). Because divorcing the system is so easy (just remove the top union hose and cap both stubs), I might try it with a married system and divorced. The only difference in the way I'm planning to try both scenarios is just adding a SC fill reservoir at the highest point for when they're divorced. I'm just waiting on a small fill reservoir to arrive, since the few I already had on hand are too big to easily fit anywhere in the engine bay (and a larger tank in the engine bay would just heat up, unless it's in front of or next to my aftermarket HX behind the grill, etc.). The real challenge will still be finding a spot for that smaller fill reservoir somewhere above the SC cooling system (to burp, etc.), as it's already so crowded in there (at least on XF SCs). I might get creative with some hose routes and tees to see what I can accomplish, but I won't know for sure how it'll all fit together until I actually go to work on it, which will probably be this weekend or next week. I love tinkering, but really don't want to drill, cut, or fabricate too much, because if it's not an improvement, I've just wasted a ton of time and/or damaged my car. I'd thought about putting a larger SC fill reservoir and second pump into the trunk (where I already have my meth tank and pump) and still might, but I want to at least try the potentially cheaper/simpler path, first.

Anyway, if it helps, I also recently read that faster flow speed is NOT detrimental. Of course, like 99% of stuff on the interwebz, this could be wrong. Good luck!