Remove intakes, remove fan & shroud, remove belts, vacuum coolant from top front crossover plug, disconnect harness plugs, remove throttle body, remove plastic inter-cooler pipes, remove fuel crossover, remove inter-cooler cover screws, remove inter-cooler, disconnect harness on rear of supercharger, remove supercharger and done! Takes a bit longer to put it all back together. My time does not include getting tool cart out, organizing all tools, parts, etc.

 

Where’s the piece that locks the connector to the pipe, in your pic? Here’s mine and it fits perfectly. This is the original pipe Euro-Amp sold at over $240…which was just installed. Are you saying the hole on the aluminum pipe was larger than the stock connector piece?

 

Here's a video of me doing it to my xf, I've done a few F-types and Xjs, I'm doing a Video for the F-type of one of our forum members to help you guys, in a few weeks I'll post the video

I try to make the Videos look basic, so it's not to intimidating, and using simple basic tools

 

As jahammer posted above it has been done and the snout and/or the water pump needs to be removed. Still tight but doable.

Good to know for sure! I doubted it at first because Jaguar wants you to remove the SC but someone figured it out!
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This procedure was discussed and done to my and several other JLR cars about a year ago and in my specific case, about 5,000 miles ago. It is written up beginning on page 12 of this thread.

Let me try again to be absolutely clear with hopefully clarifying some false assumptions made about this procedure.

Only two (2) parts are required to be removed. Just two.

1. MAS

2. Water pump

The supercharger snout does not get removed. However, I am not trying to tell you what to remove on your car. I am only trying to convey that in the procedure that was used on my car does not require anything to be removed but the two parts I have identified above. If you feel in your case that you have to remove the snout, the radiator shroud, the hood and anything else that is entirely up to you.

My point, again, is that this procedure works and has proven itself viable with many JLR vehicles. I have no dog in this race and it makes no matter to me what you choose to remove. I am only trying and have been trying, to provide another alternative to the ridiculous prices some folks have been quoted to do this job.

As an aside. The radiator shroud only needs to be removed on Rovers due to a design of getting to the water pump. F-Types do not require this.

 

George, I think you had the best idea to settle this matter once and for all. If you could video tape your mechanic doing this procedure, it would just clarify everything!! I hate to see you continuing to defend yourself time after time. Best to you!

 

I did not take the photo, the mechanic did. According to him the hole machined in the aluminum pipe was too big for the existing hose. The clip you mentioned was obviously removed when he took the photo, it was reinstalled when the newer style plastic pipes were installed.

 

Will that sucks. Have you tried to reach out to Euro-Amp? Glad the mechanic was able to get you sorted out with the stock pipe though.

 

I had the coolant system preventative work done today at an indie. Car is 7-years old and with 70k miles. He said that if they are going to go, they can do so starting at that kind of age and mileage and I was getting a slight whiff of coolant. He recommended using the upgraded JLR pipes and not the Al alternatives, since he felt not enough experience with the Al pipes yet to know if there will be any issues. He hasn't had a car back with an issue with the upgraded JLR pipes (though I know some unlucky souls on here have not been so fortunate). Cost £1500 to do all plastic pipes, new gaskets, new water-pump and new thermostat housing. All JLR parts.
I had a look at the parts that were taken off. The rear cross-over pipe had evidence of slight white staining along the seam, possibly suggesting the early states of a slight weep. Either way, I feel better with all the old pipework now replaced.

 

Not to be a pessimist, but with the experiences I’ve had, I wouldn’t consider the revised design pipes any sort of upgrade. Frankly the original pipes on mine didn’t leak at the seams and the new revised versions failed on mine the same way the old ones did, they crumbled where they connect to the alloy block. And other plastic pipes also failed elsewhere in the circuit same way, and also seamless.

Modern JLR owners just need to accept the fact if they intend to keep their vehicles out of warranty they must factor in parts replacements as routine maintenance like fluids, belts, tyres, etc.

 

Cbarr,

At 1,500 pounds that is about $1,900 US, which is about what I think the ball park figure is to get something like this done at a US dealership . However, I very much agree with Jahummer that the new revised pipes may not be that much better than stock but at least they have been replaced and that should be of some comfort. At 70k miles it was time and you probably caught things before disaster struck which is great.

My view is that you now have new pipes, better than the old ones and every 3-5k take a good look around for the tell tale signs of problems. It will be fine. Enjoy the XJR. They are wonderful cars.

 

Just did the complete Euro Amp change preventively. My Indy told me the same thing. “You can’t believe everything you read online.” Sure. Maybe. I insisted. Had to buy the parts and ship them and it was on me if they didn’t fit. Guess what? They are going to start to recommend the Euro Amp AL parts to all their customers now. Much better and fit perfectly. NOT cheaper. BETTER. I don’t really care.

Makes me happy. And I’m an engineer.

 

It's good to hear that we are finally getting a more permanent solution to the plastic pipes issue. A bit late for me now having just replaced them for new plastic, but at least I can relax for a (short) while until I need to do it again! PS. Worth everyone noting the issue with potentially 'cheap' O-rings supplied with the Al parts. Not sure if RKX Tech or EuroAmp have addressed this yet.

 

The aluminum pipes were discussed here in early 2022. Therefore, we have had this solution for several years now.

RKX never had a problem. At least that I have ever heard. Myself and several people that I know locally have all used RKX with no issues whatsoever.

 

I recently did a lot of research on this and ended up purchasing a fidelity warranty. It is one of the only warranties recommended on the rennlist forums and my dealer said they have played well with them in the past for claims. I would stay far away from car shield as I have heard bad things and my local autonation pushes them pretty hard. Send me a PM if you want.

Hopefully referral links are allowed:
https://share.factoryprotect.com/6DfPZn

 

Well, that was a sobering journey into aftermarket insurance!

 

In the UK at least, most are not worth the paper they are printed on. And the ones that are, are around the price of the JLR extended warranty. It really pays to read the small print. I cancelled an aftermarket warranty (that was run by the same company that provides the JLR warranty in the UK, and I was told by the dealer it was exactly 'the same' - after a discussion with one of their customer service advisers who agreed that plastic coolant pipes would potentially not be covered under a car of the age and mileage of mine (70k/7 years) but be considered normal wear and tear if failed.

 

Just get a copy of the contract before you buy. If it states it only covers mechanical and electrical items, you will be screwed on the cooling pipes.. Ask me how I know!

 

Excuse my language, but the warranty company's are bitches, just do the METAL and be done with this cooling issue

 

Agree, all sounds good until you actually read the print. I had a GMAC policy on an Escalade. The rear window defogger went out, the bonding where the wire clip attaches to the rear glass failed. Cadillac said the rear window needed to be replaced. GMAC wouldn't cover because glass replacement was not covered. Also one of the auto deployed running boards wasn't working correctly. One of the aluminum hinged brackets was binding due to pitting. Again not covered because of part failure due to corrosion.