Did this argument go on so long that George's mechanic joined the forum? 😂 Or have you also done the replacement without removing the supercharger?

I sort-of know the process for doing it the regular way (as much as I can from reading the manuals but not having done it yet), but I'm interested in trying George's mechanic's method that doesn't require the s/c to be pulled. I can pull the s/c and I want to do the oil as well but I just thought I might be able to settle this f'ing argument once and for all by doing it that way 😂 😂

 

Jagnight85 is my mechanic and he did join this forum specifically to address his procedure in removing the pipes . Actually, he has been great about the whole thing although he is much more direct about all the flack we having been getting and says I am way to nice and , well, he is much more direct with loads of expletives combined.

I am trying, as his agent, to get a 25% commission but he is balking at that and sticking to .05% . As you can see we are miles apart and I am pretty certain I am not going to see anything close to 25%. But at least we have a good laugh.

Anywy, I am sure that he will help you. He has done well over 40 procedures on JLR vehicles many of folks that I know and he has never had any issues. Send him a PM or a note here and don't forget to remind him of my 25%......

 

Awesome! I do want to replace my S/C oil as well and was getting ready to pull the blower, but I'll confirm the location of my bleed port first... if I can get a tube in there, I'll suck it out with a syringe rather than pull the whole thing. I'm about 75% confident in removing and reinstalling the s/c, which isn't really really high enough and is a big part of why I haven't done it yet.. the consequence of me making a mistake is pretty high, so I think I'd rather try to do both jobs without removing it.

@Jagknight85 I'll shoot you a PM

 

Just to level set, don't think there was actually much continued debate/drama to worr about here quick recap:

1) $3000 for a full supercharger and pipe replacement is par for the course by a dealer

2) should be half that or a little less by a decent independent mechanic

3) there is a clever way that George's mechanic discovered to remove the lower y pipe without removing the SC, super handy for folks who just want to address that (must have the right tool combo apparently)

4) some folks, like myself, will probably end up removing the supercharger anyways, to address other things under or behind the SC there that may need it. Did not mean to say "shortcut" with a negative connotation mine is a 2015 R with minor water ingress issues for instance, so I'd like to see what's happening under there, easier to do a total coolant hose/pipe/manifold overhaul, do a bit of sc maint while I'm in there etc. So I'm in for the spend (or DIY time if I have it) regardless.

Cheers,
Brad

 

I certainly hope this doesn't come off as an argument. I appreciate @Jagknight85 and @GeorgeIII offering an explanation for an alternative method and I appreciate the fact a franchised main dealer's offering massive discounts on standard book time by reducing the hours and costs for service as well as allowing customer supplied parts. Main dealers here offer neither.

I've simply been attempting to replicate the steps stated and demonstrated here so I can figure out how to do it via this shortcut method. Since it only takes me roughly 30 minutes to remove the supercharger, I was simply curious. It's not complicated and the only hurdle encountered with the shortcut so far is finding a torx bit which'll fit the tiny gap and long enough to reach between the y-pipe and supercharger snout and under it. One of the videos the tech posted shows a 6-inch T30 bit but I used an 8-inch T30 and it still wouldn't reach. In the original video the tech shows using what appears to be a long 1/4" socket extension (screenshot below) but that certainly doesn't fit on mine as it's larger than a T30 bit, I have 1" all the way up to 24" 1/4" extensions and socket bits and u-joints.

Member @clubairth1 suggested a 12" T30 screwdriver and when I get around to buying one, I'll give it a try. Gearwrench offer 18" torx, but T25's the largest size...

 

I thought my liberal use of emojis and forum smilies was enough to convey that I was poking fun... just found it funny that one of the first threads in the "new threads" page when I first clocked back on yesterday after three months off was this one and it doesn't seem to have progressed very far 😂

@bfrank1972 fyi my indy quoted AU$1900 to fit the full Euroamp kit and I'm guessing you're talking USD, so your estimate of "about half of 3k" is pretty spot on

 

I've done a pre-inspection and I'm fairly confident I know where everything is, so I think I'd like to go ahead with replacing the water pump and two primary cooling pipes fairly quickly (maybe this weekend?) as I'm pretty nervous about one of those exploding any day now. I think I'll do the coupler separately, so the snout will stay on for my attempt. There's a bunch of other small parts in the Euroamp kit that I don't know when I'll install, but I'll feel better knowing that the two big pipes are done.

Before I got distracted from the forums a few months ago there was some talk of the Euroamp o-rings failing and suggestions to replace them with high quality high-temp ones. Any development on that?

P.S....

I knew a bloke in high school that would swear blind he could help you out with this......



Sorry I was catching up on what I've missed over the past couple of months and couldn't help myself

 

I just purchased a set of EuroAmp aluminum cooling pipes and plan to install them in my F-Type in a few weeks. After reading about the o-ring issues, I ordered and plan to use factory o-rings (part # AJ811350) when I install the aluminum pipes. I'll let you know how the factory o-rings compare to the the EuroAmp o-rings.

 

Awesome, thank you very much for the part number. Think I'll order today.

 

The EuroAmp supplied o-ring is on the right. The OEM Jaguar o-ring (#AJ811350) is on the left. The EuroAmp o-ring is slightly thicker. The OEM Jaguar o-rings don’t quite fill the o-ring slots on the aluminum EuroAmp lower coolant pipe, but you can feel them seal when inserting the lower pipe into the block.