Aluminum Cooling Pipes - Finally!!
#161
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Gunnerlewis (01-05-2023)
#162
#166
Hi everyone,
Being an auto enthusiast myself, I've been a forum lurker for a while. Today I realized... hmm maybe I should actually say something. I do work for EuroAMP so therefor if anybody has questions about the pipes or any other parts we sell, I'd be more than happy to help.
Staying on topic, we now have a lot of the pipes in stock. They're packaged well (we had a small batch that came scratched but that's been sorted) and are very well manufactured. So far, we've sold about 50 of these and not a single customer has complained. We've used them on our own cars and they've given us no issues, just peace of mind.
The crux of doing the swap is the supercharger removal, but actually taking these parts on and off is a cakewalk.
Again, let me know if you have questions, want to talk about Jags/Rovers or need help. We have a lot of experience with these cars.
Christian
Being an auto enthusiast myself, I've been a forum lurker for a while. Today I realized... hmm maybe I should actually say something. I do work for EuroAMP so therefor if anybody has questions about the pipes or any other parts we sell, I'd be more than happy to help.
Staying on topic, we now have a lot of the pipes in stock. They're packaged well (we had a small batch that came scratched but that's been sorted) and are very well manufactured. So far, we've sold about 50 of these and not a single customer has complained. We've used them on our own cars and they've given us no issues, just peace of mind.
The crux of doing the swap is the supercharger removal, but actually taking these parts on and off is a cakewalk.
Again, let me know if you have questions, want to talk about Jags/Rovers or need help. We have a lot of experience with these cars.
Christian
I would like to thank you for the kit that I ordered from you (ORDER #1249);
Order confirmed on 30th December (late Christmas present to myself!) and received on my doorstep 5th January in the UK - That, is brilliant.
Considering the 'dither' time for our government to add it's nonsensical, extortionate VAT and Import duty charges, and the added fact that we were in the middle of the Royal mail's postal strike, amased!
So, thank you, I look forward to installing this little lot later in the year.
My only question at the moment is the sensor in the Thermostat housing.
I checked the fitment listing and I see it's compatible with the 15 V8R, but from memory I don't recall seeing this connector in the existing housing? I may be wrong of course.
Tel
#167
Just posted a thread on this and then saw this post, so I figured I would add the same sentiments here as well.
For those of you who have read my thread here, you will understand why I am doing this while in there: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-story-267056/
However some tips I have come across that may be helpful for others looking to do the same thing with replacing their plastic lower Y pipe and upper coolant pipes with aluminum. First and foremost, I would HIGHLY recommend getting them from @EuroAMP I purchased through their ebay store, but you can buy them directly off their website as well. If planning to do the water pump at the same time (mine was already replaced while under warranty) they offer a complete kit. The reason I recommend them is they only carry the newer style aluminum pipe design that does not use the coupler that sits between the lower Y pipe and upper coolant pipe. Their customer service is excellent and from speaking with a few other forum members, not all the casts are created equally. Some of the aluminum casted pipes do not allow the upper coolant bolt holes to line up correctly. I have measured the ones provided by EuroAMP and they match.
Another tip I have learned through this process is around the lower Y pipe installation. When I first installed it, I was quick to just get it in, so the coolant overflowing from the block (yes I did a partial drain) stopped, however I noticed that the Y pipe did not appear to be seated properly. As their was no coolant leaking out, I left it as is for the time being as I am still in the process of getting the SC put back together. Today however I went and unbolted and reseated the Y-pipe again, making sure to rock it slightly back and forth, to force a better seal and sure enough, it sat further into the block then originally. I know the torque specs only require 10nm, however I over torqued them slightly to make sure again the rubber o-rings sealed in place, then backed out to re-torque to the right specs.
Lastly, for the upper pipe. Measure your bolt hole locations against the stock plastic one ahead of time. That last thing you want is to be stuck unable to reinstall or only get one of the mounting bolts in. I would also highly recommend adding an ever so slight bit of silicone grease to the o-ring to ensure a tight fit and seated into the lower Y-pipe correctly. It made life easier as some have mentioned they could not get it to seat properly. I believe the o-rings are meant to be a tight fit for a reason, to avoid leaks. I would also recommend doing a pressure test on the entire system to check for leaks ahead of adding coolant back into the system and then I would recommend a coolant vacuum kit to replace the coolant to help bleed the system. It is not required, but helpful to ensure any air is pushed out.
For those of you who have read my thread here, you will understand why I am doing this while in there: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-story-267056/
However some tips I have come across that may be helpful for others looking to do the same thing with replacing their plastic lower Y pipe and upper coolant pipes with aluminum. First and foremost, I would HIGHLY recommend getting them from @EuroAMP I purchased through their ebay store, but you can buy them directly off their website as well. If planning to do the water pump at the same time (mine was already replaced while under warranty) they offer a complete kit. The reason I recommend them is they only carry the newer style aluminum pipe design that does not use the coupler that sits between the lower Y pipe and upper coolant pipe. Their customer service is excellent and from speaking with a few other forum members, not all the casts are created equally. Some of the aluminum casted pipes do not allow the upper coolant bolt holes to line up correctly. I have measured the ones provided by EuroAMP and they match.
Another tip I have learned through this process is around the lower Y pipe installation. When I first installed it, I was quick to just get it in, so the coolant overflowing from the block (yes I did a partial drain) stopped, however I noticed that the Y pipe did not appear to be seated properly. As their was no coolant leaking out, I left it as is for the time being as I am still in the process of getting the SC put back together. Today however I went and unbolted and reseated the Y-pipe again, making sure to rock it slightly back and forth, to force a better seal and sure enough, it sat further into the block then originally. I know the torque specs only require 10nm, however I over torqued them slightly to make sure again the rubber o-rings sealed in place, then backed out to re-torque to the right specs.
Lastly, for the upper pipe. Measure your bolt hole locations against the stock plastic one ahead of time. That last thing you want is to be stuck unable to reinstall or only get one of the mounting bolts in. I would also highly recommend adding an ever so slight bit of silicone grease to the o-ring to ensure a tight fit and seated into the lower Y-pipe correctly. It made life easier as some have mentioned they could not get it to seat properly. I believe the o-rings are meant to be a tight fit for a reason, to avoid leaks. I would also recommend doing a pressure test on the entire system to check for leaks ahead of adding coolant back into the system and then I would recommend a coolant vacuum kit to replace the coolant to help bleed the system. It is not required, but helpful to ensure any air is pushed out.
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#168
I have no doubt metal should be better than plastic, but from what I read the new cars have revised pipes, no? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was that the original pipes on the older cars had a seam in them, and that this was ultimately leading to failure. The suggestion seems to be that the newer pipes that are all one piece now should not have the issue?
Is this about right?
Is this about right?
#169
I have no doubt metal should be better than plastic, but from what I read the new cars have revised pipes, no? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was that the original pipes on the older cars had a seam in them, and that this was ultimately leading to failure. The suggestion seems to be that the newer pipes that are all one piece now should not have the issue?
Is this about right?
Is this about right?
#170
Very glad to hear that!
I was sure they would work but as always it just depends.
Are you talking about the plastic push connection on the water pump?
There is an improved part for that I just found?
Upgraded Brass Connection
It now says out of stock so I would contact the seller as this is a problem connection and his solid brass repair is much needed!
The rear water manifold is AJ814007 for my 2014 XJR and I think it's the same for all SC V-8's.
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I was sure they would work but as always it just depends.
Are you talking about the plastic push connection on the water pump?
There is an improved part for that I just found?
Upgraded Brass Connection
It now says out of stock so I would contact the seller as this is a problem connection and his solid brass repair is much needed!
The rear water manifold is AJ814007 for my 2014 XJR and I think it's the same for all SC V-8's.
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#171
No. O-ring in first then the grey plastic retainer. Then push the grey plastic back flush against the metal surface and the brass part should go in. Pull the collar out a bit so it grabs the brass tube good.
At least that was how I remember it. Been a while.
Yes while the improved plastic pipes are a bit better I have a 2014 XJR with the later version and they have already leaked and have been replaced under factory warranty.
The first generation Aluminum pipe's from Jaguar (With the added small coupler) are completely obsolete at this point and you can't get any of those parts anymore. Yes Jaguar started with Al. then went to really bad plastic and then went to not as bad plastic! A strange progression for sure!
Thank you very much for the feedback about the bolt holes. This is a critical bit of knowledge! I have the Al. pipes and have not installed them yet. Don't remember where I purchased them except I jumped on them WAY to early!! I paid about $215 for the pair and now they are all over for about $65 a pair! I just assumed they were all made by the same vendor but I guess not?
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At least that was how I remember it. Been a while.
Yes while the improved plastic pipes are a bit better I have a 2014 XJR with the later version and they have already leaked and have been replaced under factory warranty.
The first generation Aluminum pipe's from Jaguar (With the added small coupler) are completely obsolete at this point and you can't get any of those parts anymore. Yes Jaguar started with Al. then went to really bad plastic and then went to not as bad plastic! A strange progression for sure!
Thank you very much for the feedback about the bolt holes. This is a critical bit of knowledge! I have the Al. pipes and have not installed them yet. Don't remember where I purchased them except I jumped on them WAY to early!! I paid about $215 for the pair and now they are all over for about $65 a pair! I just assumed they were all made by the same vendor but I guess not?
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skizot (02-16-2023)
#172
@clubairth1 I just broke this as well, does the rubber o-ring go on the brass fitting prior to being inserted into the retaining clip?
#173
I have no doubt metal should be better than plastic, but from what I read the new cars have revised pipes, no? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was that the original pipes on the older cars had a seam in them, and that this was ultimately leading to failure. The suggestion seems to be that the newer pipes that are all one piece now should not have the issue?
Is this about right?
Is this about right?
No on what I saw..the part that got inserted into the tubing and such, the "male" part of the coolant tubes on a 2016 with 55k was perhaps 1cm shorter than it should have been. Those plastic pieces were in the block in coolant pathways that my mechanic did a lot of work to clear out....
So something to think about. I went metal. Not sure if the "new" plastic material will do the above or not....but another reason to change out the older tubes.
The SC came off, so did all the S/C stuff too...solid piece, lube/fluid, etc.
New belt.
New thermostat. New water pump. New rear heater tube...the euroamp kit is what I used too..the max/biggest kit. I don't want to deal with this again for a long time..
#174
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355rockit (02-17-2023)
#175
Just had the work completed by an independent as the price was too good to refuse & tackle myself. Also had the s/c belt changed & new NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs fitted plus an engine oil change.
However, I can confirm which parts are not suitable for a V8R 2016MY:
AJ814048: Revised thermostat outlet
- This part number is for the V6, not V8. The correct one is: AJ812887
- On the 2016MY, the outlet is apparently metal, so the Indy didn't replace it. I haven't been able to find one for sale though...
LR055301: Coolant expansion tank bleed screw (brass)
- The thread is a different size, so doesn't fit. :-(
However, I can confirm which parts are not suitable for a V8R 2016MY:
AJ814048: Revised thermostat outlet
- This part number is for the V6, not V8. The correct one is: AJ812887
- On the 2016MY, the outlet is apparently metal, so the Indy didn't replace it. I haven't been able to find one for sale though...
LR055301: Coolant expansion tank bleed screw (brass)
- The thread is a different size, so doesn't fit. :-(
#176
Just had the work completed by an independent as the price was too good to refuse & tackle myself. Also had the s/c belt changed & new NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs fitted plus an engine oil change.
However, I can confirm which parts are not suitable for a V8R 2016MY:
AJ814048: Revised thermostat outlet
- This part number is for the V6, not V8. The correct one is: AJ812887
- On the 2016MY, the outlet is apparently metal, so the Indy didn't replace it. I haven't been able to find one for sale though...
LR055301: Coolant expansion tank bleed screw (brass)
- The thread is a different size, so doesn't fit. :-(
However, I can confirm which parts are not suitable for a V8R 2016MY:
AJ814048: Revised thermostat outlet
- This part number is for the V6, not V8. The correct one is: AJ812887
- On the 2016MY, the outlet is apparently metal, so the Indy didn't replace it. I haven't been able to find one for sale though...
LR055301: Coolant expansion tank bleed screw (brass)
- The thread is a different size, so doesn't fit. :-(
#177
that small brass screw is not for the expansion tank. That’s what I thought too. I confirmed with Euro Amp it’s meant to replace the coolant bleeder screw in the block. I’m not exactly sure where that is. I just didn’t use it. I wonder though if this is meant to go underneath for the drain plug? I stopped trying to figure it out. Once they confirmed it’s not for the expansion tank.
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Panthro (05-07-2024)
#178