I am in the middle of putting in a RaceChip in to my 100% stock 340HP XF. I am a driver, not a mechanic, so it was a little frustrating getting it installed, but I am about to the end of the process.

Evening #1
I received some generic VW instructions form RaceChip, then they emailed me supplement with a few photos of a jaguar. These are the same photos posted elsewhere in these forums. Pretty straight forward as to how it connects, redirecting MAP and MAPT. Took my time as I didn’t want to face any broken parts or undoing mistakes. The MAP took a minute and I thought I would be finished in a matter of minutes. Yeah right...

The MAPT/boost sensor connector at the back of the engine was a real challenge. My 2016 model had more of a cover over the back of the engine compartment than the photos showed, and there was very little room to put a hand. The connector is at an angle and is in a hard to access position. After one evening of barked knuckles I asked the forum if they had any tricks, who mostly confirmed that it was a difficult place to get to. Owners suggested a remap on the ECU (expensive) or possibly trying to wire a connection closer to the ECU (a bit scary for me). I decided instead to have a beer and sleep on it, pondering the prospect of having to return the RaceChip if I couldn't solve the problem.

Evening #2. I decided that a lack of technology was my problem, so drove down to the local tool shop and procured some new tools for working in hard to reach places, plus an illuminated mirror.



Used gently, the hose puller tool (on the right) was good for releasing the lock and unplugging the MAPT connector. I secured the loose connector with a ziptie so it didn’t fall into the depths. (2 hrs including the trip to the store). Considering this good progress I went to bed.

The next morning I decided to take a run at it before going to work. Plugging it all back in actually proved more difficult for me because I had to match the angle of the plug receiver without seeing it.

I tried the mirror which took a bit of effort to position because of the lack of space but after I found the right angle I ziptied the mirror into place to free up both hands. The mirror wasn’t very useful once I was close in, but it helped to set the plug at the right initial angle as a starting point. I positioned the new plug using the 90° pliers and then switched hands hands to nudge it into place with a finger. Using one had over and one finger under I was eventually able to plug it in. (I did not remove or disconnect anything else on the back of the engine to get more space.) (2 hours)

Once turned on the RaceChip threw no errors but the device didn’t connect immediately through Bluetooth to the app on the phone (Android). In retrospect it seems to be sensitive to the software sequence, so I got success after uninstalling everything and reloading in the exact sequence in the instructions, which included loading the ap then pairing. The single clarification call to tech support went quickly and worked. They seem to be very responsive and helpful. All ended well. (45min)

Much to my relief the car started fine and I didn't have to troubleshoot anything.

Results:

The first run in default setting 4 (sport) seemed to feel a little gutsier, but a time/speed run was about the same as stock (21.7s@123MPH). I did not have time before leaving town to test it further, so I am looking at more testing in settings 5 and 6 (I have the RS version of the RaceChip) next week, as well as looking at the fuel economy. But so far so good as far as nothing unexpected so far. The installation did not seem to disagree with the car and we had no hiccups, pops, tapping, knocking or unexpected farts. The car runs at least as good as it did before at first glance.

Lessons Learned:

RaceChip installation on the XF for an inexperienced person like me takes a little time and patience, and in my case about $50 in additional tools. (The compound pliers I never used except for retrieving my dropped 90° pliers) (;>)

I was interested in the RaceChip with the hopes that I could take it on and off as needed to have warranty work done at the dealer. If I decide that I want to keep it around, I think that I will try to build/find a 2” extender plug and wire so that I can plug and unplug the MAPT without having to reach into the back of the engine to do it. It is too difficult to connect and disconnect even with practice, and I don’t like doing things by feel. The dream of quick connect and disconnect is waning a little unless I figure out the plug extension.

Might check out this post: https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/race...-review/366691

I am overall encouraged and will post more next week when I have a had more time with it.

To an early question about what the different maps are intended to do (from RaceChip):

"...Yes, each level on the RaceChip is a more aggressive tune.
-Map 0 will be the car back in stock condition. Perfect for valet's, someone borrowing your car, or even going in for service.
-Map 1 and 2 will be the economy modes. Perfect for a road trip and maximizing fuel economy.
-Map 3 and 4 will be our sport modes. A nice balance of power and torque over stock with smooth acceleration.
-Map 5 and 6 are the Race modes. Take your car to the next level with a significant increase to power and torque."

 

Good write up . Yes it is a right PITA of a job to get into the plug at back of the engine . I was much the same as yourself , Walked away a few times lol I also used a similar mirror It is a 3 hand job with limited room . i had to remove the bolt on the plug holding it to the back of the engine to get the race chip plug in then bolt it back on to engine , And i have bought more handy tools if i ever need to take it off , This small thin ratchet can be fitted onto an extension , very handy for hard to get to places . i like them pliers you bought .

 

Have bought this micro ratchet that a extension can be fitted to handy for tight spots

 

The Racechip can only be installed on a stock car right? What about an upper or lower pulley?

 

An upper pulley is fine with Racechip. You can do an upper pulley with or without a tune in a stock car and it won't throw codes.

A lower pulley requires ECU integration through a firmware tune, so it cannot be done with Racechip or while you are in warranty if the warranty is of concern, since any firmware tune will throw the "warranty-void" bit. Jag won't likely mention it unless you make a related warranty claim then your claim will be denied.

 

Update on the Racechip install (XF 340HP):

I have tried out 2-6 of the dynamic modes offered on the Racechip. None have seemed to cause any real problems with the way that the car runs (no hiccups or annoying behavior). The econ mode 2 seems to hold the shift point down in the low range, but really didn't give me any fuel saving in normal driving. I prefer the stock to this setting. In truth, I haven't experienced fuel savings in any of the modes 2 through 4, maybe a GPH less in mode 4 (26MPG vs 27MPG @ average 33MPH). 5 and 6 are not about fuel so I haven't looked at that.

Overall the biggest things I have noticed is that the throttle response and depth of power seems better. The time to 125MPH seems about the same in modes 5 or 6 in Race mode and in Sport, but that could be more about my driving technique and the conditions. I haven't had the opportunity to push it up over 125MPH yet, so I don't know yet what the Racechip has yielded at the upper end.

Not being on a track I don't have hard numbers - but being able to turn off the chip gave me some impressions of the differences. The only truly blind test I conducted was with my wife. We live in an area where we must pull out on a right angle turn onto a two-lane highway where there can be heavy traffic averaging about 75MPH (with blind approaches). My wife is used to sometimes having to dig into the throttle to make the entry (she sometimes uses Sport and Race modes when the traffic is challenging).

She knew I had been mumbling to myself about working on the car and had the bonnet open for a few days, but she didn't have visibility on the RaceChip project. We took off as normal the other day with her driving and myself as passenger (mode 5 in the background). Weekend traffic was heavy so she pulled out as she normally does (in Race and Sport) and the throttle response and acceleration truly startled her. After she settled a bit she turned to me and narrowed her eyes, "WHAT THE **** DID YOU DO TO THE CAR??!" After I told her what the project was about the first response was "Can you take it back?" She was relieved to learn that the change wasn't permanent.

We all want to see what we want when we do this stuff, but that probably was the sell for me. (I noticed that she sticking more to the XJ these days.)

I'm keeping it. Geoge05 - what was your final takeaway after your install?

 

Hi LarkM . Yeah it is still on my car , I prefer Map 5 on the race chip RS version i had bought Map 5 seems to give it that extra kick on take off from Junctions if the xkr needed more lol but the MPG was way down giving me readings of 18mpg compared to 23mpg on local trips at 30-50 mph , so today i have returned it to map 4 (factory settings ) to see if i get any more mpg from it . I shall monitor it for a week . if mpg is not on the up . i will remove it for a week or 2 then put back on . (just to see with it removed what the mpg is. i have bought extra slim and long tools to get better access so should not be a problem taking off and on . I will report back next week . thanks

 

You may not need to take the harness completely off for that test...I noticed on my RS that the app can deactivate it or you can always use the plug that came with the Racechip that plugs in where the brain module plugs and passes though the signals. (p.s. - tried to buy that micro-ratchet you found, but they don't deliver to the U.S.).

 

Thanks LarkM. I had forgot about that plug in your photo for disconnection pity about the micro ratchet. try ebay etc

 

Curious to know what folks do about the default stock modes already in the F-type -- meaning, do you leave the car in its base/OEM standard mode and then apply the RaceChip modes -- or is there any help by switching to Dynamic mode using the OEM car and then using the RaceChip's Race mode? Sorry, I'm new to all this so trying to understand what the heck is going on via that chip.

 

I suspect the RaceChip manipulates engine processes, whereas the Dynamic mode button modifies throttle mapping and AT behavior.

 

Racechip doesn't modify the OEM ECU programming, so it won't matter what mode you are in it does the same thing. It reports a lower boost reading than actual until the actual boost matches the Racechip's target for that map and car.

 

So if RaceChip is over-boosting the engine by fooling the ECU, what is happening with the the built-in safe-guards in the ECU? Are they also being fooled? Would/could this not lead to potentially catastrophic engine damage?

Does anyone know just how much additional boost is designed into each RaceChip map level?

 

Now you have peaked my curiosity.

Does the F-Type have an electronically controlled super charger bypass valve?

It would have to be electronically controlled to work as described above.

 

had the chip switched of for a week now and MPG has returned back to normal 20-24mpg

 

I didn't get any improvement with the gas mileage on any setting (not as bad as what you saw, but it knocked it down about 1-2MPG in my V6 XF). It seems to help with performance in the two race modes. With the app I can just deactivate the box at will, so I have been leaving it off unless I want to play. The stock modes seem to work pretty well for daily driving needs.

 

Its nearly winter so will leave it off till spring

 

Yes.

 

You surprise me since all I can find is the following on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supercharge...-/122866598859

This posting on Ebay shows both a vacuum type bypass actuator AND an electronically controlled one so if you have the vacuum one there is no way the chip will change the boost and the only way it can change the boost is by closing the valve sooner to bring on boost earlier.

The way most chips for tuning work is simply to fool the ECU into thinking the air coming in is cooler than it actually is so that the ECU causes more fuel to be pumped.

Some possibly advance the ignition somewhat.

Having more fuel going thru than "normal" might harm the cats.

Without actually remapping the ECU you are not going to get much.

I did a lot of work "fooling" with my SC bypass valve to get it to close earlier, it runs fully open at low revs, thus increasing boost earlier.

All the feed back I received was that it was a bad thing to do.

 

My understanding is that the earlier AJ133SC used the vacuum type then some time around 2012/2013 they changed to the electronic type.
And the AJ126 (V6) has always had the electronic type.