Anyone Dealing With Rattles?
#21
Hi - brand new here, also on a quest to solving rattles!
I am not very hands-on with maintaining cars. Does anyone UK based have any recommendations for garages that have fixed F Type rattles?
I bought a 2014 F Type V6S coupe about six months ago, love the thing, but goodness is the build quality shoddy in some parts. I have stereo rattles and brand new today, a very irritating trim rattle just behind my right ear.
I waited out to get one with Meridien, but of course when I turn the volume up it rattles like mad behind the seats. The dealer I bought it from has had at least four attempts at sorting this and on the last attempt announced "it must have been like that from the factory". I dread to think what they've done behind the bulkhead carpet.
On this forum I found the technical bulletin JLR released to "resolve" this, which was JTB00432v2 - I am told that as this wasn't done near the time of the release, it is now too late to have done for free; so I am not stuck within the network. A stereo specialist in Reading want about a £grand to dynomat the hell out of the whole car, but I am worried that will dullen the exhaust noise and also I read here won't solve the sub vibration issues anyway.
So my quest is for a skilled mechanic who is an expert in identifying and resolving rattles and also interior trim fitting so that the solution lasts and looks decent. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Many thanks,
Adrian.
I am not very hands-on with maintaining cars. Does anyone UK based have any recommendations for garages that have fixed F Type rattles?
I bought a 2014 F Type V6S coupe about six months ago, love the thing, but goodness is the build quality shoddy in some parts. I have stereo rattles and brand new today, a very irritating trim rattle just behind my right ear.
I waited out to get one with Meridien, but of course when I turn the volume up it rattles like mad behind the seats. The dealer I bought it from has had at least four attempts at sorting this and on the last attempt announced "it must have been like that from the factory". I dread to think what they've done behind the bulkhead carpet.
On this forum I found the technical bulletin JLR released to "resolve" this, which was JTB00432v2 - I am told that as this wasn't done near the time of the release, it is now too late to have done for free; so I am not stuck within the network. A stereo specialist in Reading want about a £grand to dynomat the hell out of the whole car, but I am worried that will dullen the exhaust noise and also I read here won't solve the sub vibration issues anyway.
So my quest is for a skilled mechanic who is an expert in identifying and resolving rattles and also interior trim fitting so that the solution lasts and looks decent. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Many thanks,
Adrian.
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Iticip (08-10-2022)
#23
My '22 P450 has a really annoying "Tap, Tap" noise that seems to be coming from behind the driver's area of the cabin (left rear). Almost sounds like something is swinging slightly when the car just begins to move fwd and the chassis or body flexes a bit... very intermittent and is barely discernable or very noticeable. With only 4600 miles on the clock, suffice to say that I'm a bit put off given the supposed caliber of this car. And salt in the wound... none of the dealers that are close to me can schedule an appointment until either October or November -- citing "lack of staff" as the rationale for unavailability of appointment times. I have found a dealer across the border (about 2-hour drive) that offered a late August appointment... so snatched that up. Will just need to figure out logistics of what to do while the dealership has the car for at least 2 days. Lucky I just retired... so time I have.... but this is frustrating, nonetheless.
The following users liked this post:
Iticip (08-10-2022)
#25
The following users liked this post:
Iticip (08-10-2022)
#26
Speaker rattle from the front ie:door is easy and always fixed by Dynamatting the door cards. See any of the stereo upgrade threads and will also tighten the bass immensely so worth doing even for those without a rattle.
The rear speaker rattle is almost impossible to fix if you want to retain the rear subwoofers behind the seats. Disconnect them will solve the rattle and they hardly do / add anything to the sound overall so could be considered. I am exploring replacing them with bass shakers with good results so far as better than the oem subs in my opinion.
Unfortunately jag designers have dropped the ball on this aspect and actually have the rear speaker baffle actually pressed against the subwoofer/subwoofer frame instead of having it 1cm proud and not touching. Any vibration from those subs will rattle against the plastic cover for those that have this problem. There is a foam gasket between the two that is compressed between them. Maybe replacing this with a denser foam roll may help but have not tried this myself. Dynamatting this area does not address the problems and so doesn’t help. I think those without this problem still have compliant foam whereas those with the problem the foam has compressed and doesn’t re-expand any more and so no damping occurs allowing the grill to vibrate.
The rear speaker rattle is almost impossible to fix if you want to retain the rear subwoofers behind the seats. Disconnect them will solve the rattle and they hardly do / add anything to the sound overall so could be considered. I am exploring replacing them with bass shakers with good results so far as better than the oem subs in my opinion.
Unfortunately jag designers have dropped the ball on this aspect and actually have the rear speaker baffle actually pressed against the subwoofer/subwoofer frame instead of having it 1cm proud and not touching. Any vibration from those subs will rattle against the plastic cover for those that have this problem. There is a foam gasket between the two that is compressed between them. Maybe replacing this with a denser foam roll may help but have not tried this myself. Dynamatting this area does not address the problems and so doesn’t help. I think those without this problem still have compliant foam whereas those with the problem the foam has compressed and doesn’t re-expand any more and so no damping occurs allowing the grill to vibrate.
#27
So I took it upon myself to investigate and tackle the problem head-on over the weekend. What I found was that a significant part of the door subwoofer had detached from the rear of the speaker housing bracket, which was causing the rattling sound.
I unfortunately did not take any photos, but it was a simple and quick fix with nothing more than a Torx 20 and 30 bit, some Gorilla Glue, and time. I left it to cure for about 30 minutes before reinstalling the sub and did not fully test it until 24 hours later by slowly turning the volume up and down. I also tested the different levels in tones along with the manufacturer surround sound presets.
I'm content to say that it now works great with the sound being back to what it should be! Not to mention I probably saved a ton in costs.
I unfortunately did not take any photos, but it was a simple and quick fix with nothing more than a Torx 20 and 30 bit, some Gorilla Glue, and time. I left it to cure for about 30 minutes before reinstalling the sub and did not fully test it until 24 hours later by slowly turning the volume up and down. I also tested the different levels in tones along with the manufacturer surround sound presets.
I'm content to say that it now works great with the sound being back to what it should be! Not to mention I probably saved a ton in costs.
#28
#29
So I took it upon myself to investigate and tackle the problem head-on over the weekend. What I found was that a significant part of the door subwoofer had detached from the rear of the speaker housing bracket, which was causing the rattling sound.
I unfortunately did not take any photos, but it was a simple and quick fix with nothing more than a Torx 20 and 30 bit, some Gorilla Glue, and time. I left it to cure for about 30 minutes before reinstalling the sub and did not fully test it until 24 hours later by slowly turning the volume up and down. I also tested the different levels in tones along with the manufacturer surround sound presets.
I'm content to say that it now works great with the sound being back to what it should be! Not to mention I probably saved a ton in costs.
I unfortunately did not take any photos, but it was a simple and quick fix with nothing more than a Torx 20 and 30 bit, some Gorilla Glue, and time. I left it to cure for about 30 minutes before reinstalling the sub and did not fully test it until 24 hours later by slowly turning the volume up and down. I also tested the different levels in tones along with the manufacturer surround sound presets.
I'm content to say that it now works great with the sound being back to what it should be! Not to mention I probably saved a ton in costs.
#30
"CREAK" Resolved
Huzzah! 2 days at the dealership and they found that the "creak" I was hearing was coming from the drivers side rear tail light assembly being over-torqued. They reset to factory spec and the friction between the assembly and body panel stopped. Great job of troubleshooting by the technician at JLR of Portland, OR!!
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