When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm not sure either, but in first post states "I cannot use the front jump points." I don't know whether that's assumed, or based on empirical evidence.
He may not be able to use a “charger” but surely a 12V battery on those terminals would work?
The OP did confess "I had disconnected the positives to the bus bar." which may explain why the underhood terminal trick fails.
Yes, not sure if he meant the lead from the battery or he isolated the busbar. If the latter then a long piece of wire or a very small child to the emergency release is the only option!
edit…or a brick through the trunk window!
I just looked at the emergency trunk lid release in my MY2017. It is a "white" and perhaps "glow in the dark T-shaped handle that is upright at the rearmost of the trunk area... as if on the other side of where the lic. plate is, but on the interior. Got two photos, one with the trunk open for reference and the second from inside with the trunk lid closed. I was able to pop up the privacy panel off its hinge pins (behind the seats) to allow for that photo. Some manipulation would be needed to get the support loops off their pins, but then maybe that whole panel could come out.
OP has a 2014, therefore, it's a convertible. Access to the truck from the cab is a little more restricted.
Not sure if this is any help to you or not, but the trunk switch is directly wired into the Auxiliary Junction box, That box gets its current directly from the battery via a megafuse. Now the problem may be that the AJB box is located at the rear passenger compartment bulkhead, behind the rear seat center section. If you can get to that, maybe power can be supplied there.
Many thanks for offering up suggestions. Still kicking myself !!!!! Here is what is disconnected in the trunk - Highlighted in red. The busbar is isolated - this is the reason I believe the car has no power. Having said that - the horn for some reason still works ( that circuit seems to be alive) - I tested that with my head !!!!
I'm still going thru the schematics and trying to decode Jaguars codes - I will attach that in the next post. I will start looking into how I could into the trunk from the inside or outside to access the emergency release pull switch. One more thing - I did apply 12V to the jump points under the hood from my other car with jumper cables - no dice !!
Here are the schematics that might relevant - I'm still deciphering and locating them before any voltage application !!!! There is a white wire ( with a male/female connector) marked with a red arrow in image 1. That could be the place, but I'm still checking and double checking. Any help with this would be great !!!! Thanks again for all the ideas.
Thanks Valerie. In my opinion, this is the preferred solution, but I don't know if I can access/look at the emergency trunk lid release dongle in the convertible.
Here are the schematics that might relevant - I'm still deciphering and locating them before any voltage application !!!! There is a white wire ( with a male/female connector) marked with a red arrow in image 1. That could be the place, but I'm still checking and double checking. Any help with this would be great !!!! Thanks again for all the ideas.
I don't think any of those switches actually provide power to any devices, but just send a signal to the appropriate module. I think you want the fifth wire below your arrow, marked 'L'. It goes to the component labeled as "Latch, Tailgate" in the last sheet. I believe that will activate the trunk release.
Thanks for the info. Located the right plug and wire (it's black and matches pin 6 location per schematic).Next question is the tricky one. 12V and what amps? I have sources that can output 12V DC with 1 amp to 5 amp. Don't want to over do it.
I'm not sure what the latch solenoid draws, but might have a enough surge current to overload a one amp power supply. It won't pull more current than needed, but current limits are there for protection. If something goes wrong, e.g. putting power directly to a ground wire, it's better to have a fuse blow than to use the wiring as a fuse. I would recommend having a fuse in line that matches the one for the circuit, since this technique bypasses the fuse box.
I was able to get the trunk open by applying fused 12V to Pin 6 (Black wire) on the C3BP01F connector. It was the best clicking sound I have ever heard !!!!!!!!! I used the backup 12V battery from my garage door opener.
Really, Really, Really appreciate everyone's help and ideas.
Special Thanks to DJS and Lizzardo. The info you folks provided saved my bacon.
Love the forum - love the help.
Lessons learnt: Be patient - don't rush. I'm glad I waited till I had feedback from several members before I went applying 12V to random wires on the car. Also, never close the F-Type trunk........ever !!!! If you see a guy driving around a white F-type with the trunk open - it's me.
I was able to get the trunk open by applying fused 12V to PIn 6 on the C3BP01F connector. It was the best clicking sound I have ever heard !!!!!!!!!
Really, Really, Really appreciate everyone's help and ideas.
Special Thanks to DJS and Lizzardo. The info you folks provided saved my bacon.
Love the forum - love the help.
Lessons learnt: Be patient - don't rush. I'm glad I waited till I had feedback from several members before I went applying 12V to random wires in the car. Also, never close the F-Type trunk........ever !!!!
The JAG is purring again !
AWESOME!!! I've been impatiently waiting the result of this. It reminded me of the old days when we would be hanging onto updates of a big event as they slowly unfolded.
05-04-2021, 12:06 PM
