Battery Issue
#22
12-01-2020, 08:13 AM
#23
12-01-2020, 08:25 AM
Please trust this: your new battey was not fully charged and probably never reached full charge. The very best thing you can do is to buy a CTEK battery maintainer, (or other reliable maintainer which has an AGM battery programme) attach it permanently to the battery system (very, very easy and there are multiple threads on this). Allow it to bring the battery to full charge - this can take up to 24 hours or more. Now you know that the battery is fully charged; you will find that the issues have disappeared (and if keep the unit plugged in when the car is not actually in use, the issues will not reappear).
Thanks for providing the additional information, but there is nothing there that makes either the assessment of the problem or the advice change.
I wrote you a much longer note but it disappeared before posting. Anyway, given the history, the overwhelming probability is that *there is nothing wrong with your car*.
Adding anything (like the insurance company dongle) to the OBDII port is a bit of a risk unless you monitor the car afterward (to make sure it shuts the systems down properly - red triangle is the proof) and are prepared to do a "hard reset" by disconnecting the negative battery lead. You might want to do that now, and charge the battery...
Can you let us know how things go from here?
Thanks for providing the additional information, but there is nothing there that makes either the assessment of the problem or the advice change.
I wrote you a much longer note but it disappeared before posting. Anyway, given the history, the overwhelming probability is that *there is nothing wrong with your car*.
Adding anything (like the insurance company dongle) to the OBDII port is a bit of a risk unless you monitor the car afterward (to make sure it shuts the systems down properly - red triangle is the proof) and are prepared to do a "hard reset" by disconnecting the negative battery lead. You might want to do that now, and charge the battery...
Can you let us know how things go from here?
Thanks
#25
12-01-2020, 08:58 AM
#26
12-01-2020, 02:45 PM
Veteran Member
The last time I picked it up from the dealership everything was fine, nothing connected to the OBDII port. Drove it a few times, over a few days, and all was good. However, one of the last things I did was to take it to DMV for inspection. A few days after that it was dead.
#27
12-01-2020, 02:57 PM
#28
12-01-2020, 03:00 PM
If the dealer had not covered the battery under warranty, that’s what I’d have gotten.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../49agm/6237063
#30
12-01-2020, 03:43 PM
Veteran Member
I installed a Duralast from Autozone this spring. Got 7 years from the OEM battery, and it was still going strong. One of the terminals was damaged on the battery I picked up, which of course I didn’t notice ‘til I got home. They exchanged it, no problem, but check the posts and corners of the new battery for damage, as it can happen in shipping and handling.
#31
12-01-2020, 04:42 PM
Veteran Member
Ah!....further information! Yes indeed, when emissions testing is done by accessing the OBDII port, there is a very high incidence of the car's systems not shutting down completely - why is not entirely clear, but it is well documented and the general procedure is that after having the car tested, you immediately do the "hard reset".
I think you may have found at least a contributing factor to your problem - add this to a not-fully-charged battery in a car not used daily and the result is obvious and annoying.
#32
12-01-2020, 04:46 PM
Veteran Member
the charging program in the F-Type is set up for an AGM battery not the (old) flooded cell battery, so that should be a factor in your choice of battery (group H8).
#34
12-01-2020, 05:38 PM
#35
12-02-2020, 01:36 AM
Senior Member
Charging systems in vehicles are designed to maintain battery voltage. While it is possible to charge the battery by driving, it is at very low amps and takes considerable time. Think in the range of 20 minutes or more just to get back to what you lost during start up. Starting a vehicle is a huge draw on the battery. So if you make frequent short trips, eventually your battery will drop below required voltage. That coupled with the high probability that the battery wasn't fully charged before it was installed, and you can see the likelihood for these situations. Picture a barrel of water. When you start your car, it's like dumping a cupful out of the barrel. During a drive, you'd be adding that water back with an eye dropper.
#36
12-02-2020, 03:24 AM
Veteran Member
The following 2 users liked this post by scm:
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#37
12-02-2020, 06:43 PM
Agree with sov211 here. And yes - emissions tests can cause this - they do here in MA. Dealer system shuts down properly. My code reader is ok too. But annual state test causes my 2017 to get into drain mode and I have to disconnect battery to reset it
One note - while I totally agree on getting a ctek and using it regularly, I learned the hard way this summer that it doesn't put out enough current to offset the OBD battery drain issue. After my state inspection I just hooked it up to the ctek and thought I'd do the battery reset at the weekend. Well 3 days later it was totally flat. Ctek couldn't keep up
So I do think the maintainers are great and I do use it. But you still need to do the battery reset
One note - while I totally agree on getting a ctek and using it regularly, I learned the hard way this summer that it doesn't put out enough current to offset the OBD battery drain issue. After my state inspection I just hooked it up to the ctek and thought I'd do the battery reset at the weekend. Well 3 days later it was totally flat. Ctek couldn't keep up
So I do think the maintainers are great and I do use it. But you still need to do the battery reset
#38
12-02-2020, 09:05 PM
#39
12-02-2020, 10:09 PM
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Thanks for the info. Just so I'm clear, anytime something goes into the OBDII port, its a hard reset afterwards, correct? Otherwise, leaving it hooked up to a tender should be adequate or are there other scenarios that require a hard reset in addition to the battery tender?
Only some connections to the OBD2 port cause a battery drain after disconnection, it's random with no known rhyme or reason, but it seems the main culprits in the US are state emissions testing devices.
I have never had a single battery drain problem despite connecting a range of devices to the OBD2 port - VAP tune tool, iCarsoft code readers x 2, JLR SDD diagnostics, ELM 327 plugs etc - but then again there are no annual emissions tests where I am so I have never had one of the "state" tools connected.
You have two choices - either wait and see if you get battery discharge problems then disconnect/reset and recharge, or disconnect/reset every time anyway.
#40
12-03-2020, 02:40 AM
Senior Member
I definitely had the battery drain from getting smog done before transferring the title for my car.
Was greeted with 'battery low, please start engine' the next day.
I've since hardwired a connector to the charge point under the trunk floor; it peeks out from the front of the trunk so I can quickly and neatly charge without dealing with the hood.
Was greeted with 'battery low, please start engine' the next day.
I've since hardwired a connector to the charge point under the trunk floor; it peeks out from the front of the trunk so I can quickly and neatly charge without dealing with the hood.