Battery Issue
#41
12-03-2020, 07:53 AM
I definitely had the battery drain from getting smog done before transferring the title for my car.
Was greeted with 'battery low, please start engine' the next day.
I've since hardwired a connector to the charge point under the trunk floor; it peeks out from the front of the trunk so I can quickly and neatly charge without dealing with the hood.
Was greeted with 'battery low, please start engine' the next day.
I've since hardwired a connector to the charge point under the trunk floor; it peeks out from the front of the trunk so I can quickly and neatly charge without dealing with the hood.
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Yus (09-16-2021)
#43
12-03-2020, 09:08 AM
I'm hoping someone has some experience to help me figure out this recurring problem because the local "expert" dealership mechanics can't figure it out or, more likely, are not interested in figuring it out. So, I bring my car for service and when I pick it up it says "Low Battery Start your Car." I go inside and ask what they did to kill my battery and they said they probably just had the door open while they were servicing it too long etc and so on. OK fine, that was about a year ago and it was the original battery so (Car is 2016) so I don't think much of it. Drive the car a few times over through the year, no issues, starts right up. Let it sit for a little longer than normal earlier this year and the battery was dead. Jumped it and took it to the dealership for a new one. Dealer says they have to check everything (So they can charge me for it) and reports back that everything was good, alternator is fine and system seems good and I just need a new battery to the tune of $700. Play expensive games win expensive prizes. Drive the car home park it in the garage. Now I add the insurance company plug in to get a discount on my mileage. Go out 2 (Two) days later and its dead. Completely dead not sort of dead. Odd, because my 15 year old car with mystery age battery can handle the billionth of an amp draw from the insurance dongle, but the Jag can't? Call the dealership back. "We're so sorry must have been a defective battery." Bring it back to the dealership. They swap batteries allegedly. I bring the car home park it in the garage and one week later...dead again. Call the dealership, bring it back. After a week they tell me the insurance dongle is not letting the car "go to sleep" and must be draining the battery. Whatever, take the dongle out and bring it home. All is good no more dongle. 3 days later...dead. Back to the dealership, seriously, and after another week they tell me everything checks out ok and they have no idea whats wrong and the car starts just fine. So what can I do? Nothing but pick it up. Drive it home. 3 days later and it works! I take it to DMV to get it inspected no problems. Go home park it and 4 days later...dead again. I'm bringing it back this week.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#44
12-03-2020, 09:09 AM
I had a 2016 F Type R and had almost the same issue. I was on a first name basis with the Road Service. First, you cannot plug anything into the OBD. I live in an area where they emission test after the car is 3 years old, this was a problem. I believe that the issue is related to the power module. They can reset it, once, twice and then the third time works, they never could figure out why. But it will drain the battery down.
#45
12-03-2020, 09:14 AM
#46
12-03-2020, 09:20 AM
Junior Member
Maybe Not The Battery At All?
I had a similar issue with my XKR that was impossible to solve, until someone suggested to make sure both key fobs are far away from the car.
Quite literally it fixed the problem immediately by simply not keeping the key fobs anywhere near the garage!
Evidently my XKR would never truly go into sleep mode and it would kill even a new battery in no time....
Give it a try, not saying its the solution here, but it definitely worked for me. Started keeping both sets of keys in the kitchen - about 30 feet from
the garage & miraculously, never another issue!
Good luck.
Quite literally it fixed the problem immediately by simply not keeping the key fobs anywhere near the garage!
Evidently my XKR would never truly go into sleep mode and it would kill even a new battery in no time....
Give it a try, not saying its the solution here, but it definitely worked for me. Started keeping both sets of keys in the kitchen - about 30 feet from
the garage & miraculously, never another issue!
Good luck.
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Jaxson (12-04-2020)
#47
12-03-2020, 09:25 AM
Veteran Member
#48
12-03-2020, 09:27 AM
Senior Member
F type Battery problems.
Hi untillrecently I also owned an F Type and suffered with the same battery problems as you. Changed the battery for new three times and the same thing kept happening. I enquired at all the dearship and could never ge an answer from anybody. I kept the keys too close to the car, was the best excuse I was given by the dealerships. Jaguar Canada themselves could not offer any suggestion whatsoever..The best they could come up with was the car shoudl be kept on a trickle charger. That is great if you just keep the ca at home. What if you nat to go in a triop someplace. Okay so the problem is in fact the alarm system. I takes up so much power to run it, it just drains th battary. I found if I left the doors unlocked the battery lasted for months. In my case it was for the whole winter. No trickle charger no problems. Locking the doors the battery lasted for about three to four days at the most. Some times only a couple of days. Leaving the doors open does not take that much out of the battery. I ended up sellign the car because I could not tollerate this major porblem with the car. Could not take it anywhere an leave it unlocked. Disarming the alarm was not an option. I feel for anybody that ends up with the car. Hope this helps you Bob. . . .
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Jomiltom (01-02-2021)
#50
12-03-2020, 09:33 AM
Battery issue
I'm hoping someone has some experience to help me figure out this recurring problem because the local "expert" dealership mechanics can't figure it out or, more likely, are not interested in figuring it out. So, I bring my car for service and when I pick it up it says "Low Battery Start your Car." I go inside and ask what they did to kill my battery and they said they probably just had the door open while they were servicing it too long etc and so on. OK fine, that was about a year ago and it was the original battery so (Car is 2016) so I don't think much of it. Drive the car a few times over through the year, no issues, starts right up. Let it sit for a little longer than normal earlier this year and the battery was dead. Jumped it and took it to the dealership for a new one. Dealer says they have to check everything (So they can charge me for it) and reports back that everything was good, alternator is fine and system seems good and I just need a new battery to the tune of $700. Play expensive games win expensive prizes. Drive the car home park it in the garage. Now I add the insurance company plug in to get a discount on my mileage. Go out 2 (Two) days later and its dead. Completely dead not sort of dead. Odd, because my 15 year old car with mystery age battery can handle the billionth of an amp draw from the insurance dongle, but the Jag can't? Call the dealership back. "We're so sorry must have been a defective battery." Bring it back to the dealership. They swap batteries allegedly. I bring the car home park it in the garage and one week later...dead again. Call the dealership, bring it back. After a week they tell me the insurance dongle is not letting the car "go to sleep" and must be draining the battery. Whatever, take the dongle out and bring it home. All is good no more dongle. 3 days later...dead. Back to the dealership, seriously, and after another week they tell me everything checks out ok and they have no idea whats wrong and the car starts just fine. So what can I do? Nothing but pick it up. Drive it home. 3 days later and it works! I take it to DMV to get it inspected no problems. Go home park it and 4 days later...dead again. I'm bringing it back this week.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Do you know how to read a digital voltmeter on the milliamp scale?
#51
12-03-2020, 09:35 AM
Battery not staying charged
Check to see if you have an amp draw at the battery post if it is very small or large You got a mice problem. The mice love the coating on all of the wiring. If you have a draw or a discharge at the battery post ,start pulling fuses and check to see if the discharge stops on the circuit that you pulled the fuse on . If it stops then you have a short in that circuit because a mouse has eaten the coating off the wire making the wire ground itself a short If so You will have to trace each fuse you pull untill you find the bare wire on that circuit. good luck, i found 80 places where Mice have eaten the coating of the wires.
#52
12-03-2020, 09:39 AM
+1 on obd port. Oddly, some obd port items disconnect ok, but most do not. The red triangle is key to knowing if u need a batt disconnect to reset. If triangle seen through back window goes out after 15 min, it’s good. If still lit red, needs reset. Also odd, dealers don’t seem to know this and have argued it’s not true. Perhaps that’s because the software they connect doesn’t do this while most inspection stations obd readers, insurance dongles etc, do.
Don’t know about fob as mine is always far away, but sounds reasonable.
Don’t know about fob as mine is always far away, but sounds reasonable.
#53
12-03-2020, 09:39 AM
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I'm hoping someone has some experience to help me figure out this recurring problem because the local "expert" dealership mechanics can't figure it out or, more likely, are not interested in figuring it out. So, I bring my car for service and when I pick it up it says "Low Battery Start your Car." I go inside and ask what they did to kill my battery and they said they probably just had the door open while they were servicing it too long etc and so on. OK fine, that was about a year ago and it was the original battery so (Car is 2016) so I don't think much of it. Drive the car a few times over through the year, no issues, starts right up. Let it sit for a little longer than normal earlier this year and the battery was dead. Jumped it and took it to the dealership for a new one. Dealer says they have to check everything (So they can charge me for it) and reports back that everything was good, alternator is fine and system seems good and I just need a new battery to the tune of $700. Play expensive games win expensive prizes. Drive the car home park it in the garage. Now I add the insurance company plug in to get a discount on my mileage. Go out 2 (Two) days later and its dead. Completely dead not sort of dead. Odd, because my 15 year old car with mystery age battery can handle the billionth of an amp draw from the insurance dongle, but the Jag can't? Call the dealership back. "We're so sorry must have been a defective battery." Bring it back to the dealership. They swap batteries allegedly. I bring the car home park it in the garage and one week later...dead again. Call the dealership, bring it back. After a week they tell me the insurance dongle is not letting the car "go to sleep" and must be draining the battery. Whatever, take the dongle out and bring it home. All is good no more dongle. 3 days later...dead. Back to the dealership, seriously, and after another week they tell me everything checks out ok and they have no idea whats wrong and the car starts just fine. So what can I do? Nothing but pick it up. Drive it home. 3 days later and it works! I take it to DMV to get it inspected no problems. Go home park it and 4 days later...dead again. I'm bringing it back this week.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The power drain could also be caused by the microswitch behind the ignition barrel which may be worn and causing the car to not completely shut down if your car uses an actual key to start it. I would try and find a dealership that will put in the time to try and solve the problem because from my experience they were the only ones with the equipment and software to figure out what was causing the power drain. Tell them to keep the cost down as much as possible as they try and diagnosis the problem and to contact you if it goes above a certain dollar amount (for example $1,000). It ended up costing me $4,000 for them to figure out what was causing the power drain and to replace the faulty door module. Hopefully it will not cost you as much.
#54
12-03-2020, 09:39 AM
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My XJ8 went thru years of trips to the dealer to replace suddenly dead batteries. The real issue has never been identified. Our work-around solution makes absolutely no sense but works every time. As you described, the battery isn’t low or weak, it seems completely dead. When ever this happens I disconnect the ground strap on the battery for a few seconds, re-attach, good to go every time.
#55
12-03-2020, 09:56 AM
Senior Member
. Until recently I also owned an F type. Loved driving it but this batter problem you are asking about was the main reason for me selling it. First Jaguar I have every done that with. I had every excuse given to me like you have had here. Keys kept to close to the car, battery not on full charge, old battery needed replacement, doors open for too long. Car not shutting down properly.
What it turned out to be is that the alarm system in the car was drawing too much power off the battery. When parked with the car all locked up a FULLY CHARGED BRAND NEW battery went flat in three to four days. If you do not lock the car up thus not initialising the alarm system the battery lasted for four months, all winter in fact. The car has to be kept on a trickle charger, and a good sized one at that if you need to keep the car locked. Not always possible and that is why I sold my car. Loved it to death but could not handle the hassles with this battery problem. If I could have disarmed the alarm system I would have kept the car.
What it turned out to be is that the alarm system in the car was drawing too much power off the battery. When parked with the car all locked up a FULLY CHARGED BRAND NEW battery went flat in three to four days. If you do not lock the car up thus not initialising the alarm system the battery lasted for four months, all winter in fact. The car has to be kept on a trickle charger, and a good sized one at that if you need to keep the car locked. Not always possible and that is why I sold my car. Loved it to death but could not handle the hassles with this battery problem. If I could have disarmed the alarm system I would have kept the car.
#56
12-03-2020, 10:01 AM
I have a 2016 F-type. Had the same issue with the battery. It would sit in the garage locked for the weekend and on Monday morning I would get the message "Low Battery - Start Your Car". Battery was essentially new and when fully charged it load tested at 100% of CCA rating. A friend with a 2019 XF was having the same problem.
The fix was replacing the Quiescent Module but only after 2-3 trips to the dealer and some research on my own to help the tech diagnose the problem. The Quiescent Module wasn't functioning correctly when shutting off the car. It is supposed to put the electronic systems to "sleep" after about 10 mins. or so. It keeps the electronics energized for a few minutes after shutting the car off so that if you start the engine again within that timeframe, everything is already booted up so you don't experience any delay in the electronic ergonomic systems. My car has been performing normally ever since.
The fix was replacing the Quiescent Module but only after 2-3 trips to the dealer and some research on my own to help the tech diagnose the problem. The Quiescent Module wasn't functioning correctly when shutting off the car. It is supposed to put the electronic systems to "sleep" after about 10 mins. or so. It keeps the electronics energized for a few minutes after shutting the car off so that if you start the engine again within that timeframe, everything is already booted up so you don't experience any delay in the electronic ergonomic systems. My car has been performing normally ever since.
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Kleetus92 (12-03-2020)
#57
12-03-2020, 10:05 AM
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First, your battery is 4 years old, and this in itself is a risk factor. Second, the battery has been drawn down to "dead" status several times - this irrevocably damages the battery. Third, the insurance dongle: ( the question of why you would want an insurance company to track your driving is a separate matter): it is obviously correct that this dongle while plugged in kept systems alive in the car - this is a known issue although it is not universal.
There is nothing for your dealership to fix. There is likely nothing at all wrong with your car.
what to do: Get a new FULLY CHARGED battery installed (and new batteries are almost never fully charged); do not plug things into the OBDII port unless you are prepared each time to do a "hard reset" (which means disconnecting the negative battery lead from the trunk floor for 30 seconds or so and reconnecting). You can easily tell if the systems have shut down: with the car LOCKED, does the red emergency light triangle on the console remain illuminated after 15 minutes or so? If it does remain lit then systems in the car are NOT shut down and the result will be a dead battery. Perform the hard reset (easy to do, but a nuisance).
And, for the record, if you have a proper battery maintainer like the CTEK units (and there are other good ones), they can be left connected for many months, in fact, indefinitely, with no damage at all to the electrical system, but with the assurance that the battery will be fully charged always. This in itself prolongs battery life immensely.
You can tell if your car has the two-battery system by simply lifting the trunk floor panels and taking a look. The main battery sits to the left and if you have the second stop/start battery, it is small and is on the right side of the trunk cavity. The negative ground point mentioned above is also easy to see. Just follow the negative battery lead the the approximate horizontal centre of the trunk floor where it is attached to a threaded stud.
There is nothing in your story which suggests any fault with the F-Type. Modern cars have enormous power needs so they require a different protocol than we are used to. What was normal in the year 2000 with regard to battery and electrical system care no longer applies.
There is nothing for your dealership to fix. There is likely nothing at all wrong with your car.
what to do: Get a new FULLY CHARGED battery installed (and new batteries are almost never fully charged); do not plug things into the OBDII port unless you are prepared each time to do a "hard reset" (which means disconnecting the negative battery lead from the trunk floor for 30 seconds or so and reconnecting). You can easily tell if the systems have shut down: with the car LOCKED, does the red emergency light triangle on the console remain illuminated after 15 minutes or so? If it does remain lit then systems in the car are NOT shut down and the result will be a dead battery. Perform the hard reset (easy to do, but a nuisance).
And, for the record, if you have a proper battery maintainer like the CTEK units (and there are other good ones), they can be left connected for many months, in fact, indefinitely, with no damage at all to the electrical system, but with the assurance that the battery will be fully charged always. This in itself prolongs battery life immensely.
You can tell if your car has the two-battery system by simply lifting the trunk floor panels and taking a look. The main battery sits to the left and if you have the second stop/start battery, it is small and is on the right side of the trunk cavity. The negative ground point mentioned above is also easy to see. Just follow the negative battery lead the the approximate horizontal centre of the trunk floor where it is attached to a threaded stud.
There is nothing in your story which suggests any fault with the F-Type. Modern cars have enormous power needs so they require a different protocol than we are used to. What was normal in the year 2000 with regard to battery and electrical system care no longer applies.
Second...I have a 2016 F-Type and the second battery is under the hood and not in the trunk
On another note, my car has the opposite problem as his and has been at the dealership two weeks tomorrow. My electrical system works fine but the car won't turnover. The dealership contacted Jaguar for assistance and determined the telematics computer control module went bad. Dealership is waiting for the part to deliver
#58
12-03-2020, 10:37 AM
Parasitic Draw Test
I'm hoping someone has some experience to help me figure out this recurring problem because the local "expert" dealership mechanics can't figure it out or, more likely, are not interested in figuring it out. So, I bring my car for service and when I pick it up it says "Low Battery Start your Car." I go inside and ask what they did to kill my battery and they said they probably just had the door open while they were servicing it too long etc and so on. OK fine, that was about a year ago and it was the original battery so (Car is 2016) so I don't think much of it. Drive the car a few times over through the year, no issues, starts right up. Let it sit for a little longer than normal earlier this year and the battery was dead. Jumped it and took it to the dealership for a new one. Dealer says they have to check everything (So they can charge me for it) and reports back that everything was good, alternator is fine and system seems good and I just need a new battery to the tune of $700. Play expensive games win expensive prizes. Drive the car home park it in the garage. Now I add the insurance company plug in to get a discount on my mileage. Go out 2 (Two) days later and its dead. Completely dead not sort of dead. Odd, because my 15 year old car with mystery age battery can handle the billionth of an amp draw from the insurance dongle, but the Jag can't? Call the dealership back. "We're so sorry must have been a defective battery." Bring it back to the dealership. They swap batteries allegedly. I bring the car home park it in the garage and one week later...dead again. Call the dealership, bring it back. After a week they tell me the insurance dongle is not letting the car "go to sleep" and must be draining the battery. Whatever, take the dongle out and bring it home. All is good no more dongle. 3 days later...dead. Back to the dealership, seriously, and after another week they tell me everything checks out ok and they have no idea whats wrong and the car starts just fine. So what can I do? Nothing but pick it up. Drive it home. 3 days later and it works! I take it to DMV to get it inspected no problems. Go home park it and 4 days later...dead again. I'm bringing it back this week.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#59
12-03-2020, 10:54 AM
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#60
12-03-2020, 11:36 AM
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I'm hoping someone has some experience to help me figure out this recurring problem because the local "expert" dealership mechanics can't figure it out or, more likely, are not interested in figuring it out. So, I bring my car for service and when I pick it up it says "Low Battery Start your Car." I go inside and ask what they did to kill my battery and they said they probably just had the door open while they were servicing it too long etc and so on. OK fine, that was about a year ago and it was the original battery so (Car is 2016) so I don't think much of it. Drive the car a few times over through the year, no issues, starts right up. Let it sit for a little longer than normal earlier this year and the battery was dead. Jumped it and took it to the dealership for a new one. Dealer says they have to check everything (So they can charge me for it) and reports back that everything was good, alternator is fine and system seems good and I just need a new battery to the tune of $700. Play expensive games win expensive prizes. Drive the car home park it in the garage. Now I add the insurance company plug in to get a discount on my mileage. Go out 2 (Two) days later and its dead. Completely dead not sort of dead. Odd, because my 15 year old car with mystery age battery can handle the billionth of an amp draw from the insurance dongle, but the Jag can't? Call the dealership back. "We're so sorry must have been a defective battery." Bring it back to the dealership. They swap batteries allegedly. I bring the car home park it in the garage and one week later...dead again. Call the dealership, bring it back. After a week they tell me the insurance dongle is not letting the car "go to sleep" and must be draining the battery. Whatever, take the dongle out and bring it home. All is good no more dongle. 3 days later...dead. Back to the dealership, seriously, and after another week they tell me everything checks out ok and they have no idea whats wrong and the car starts just fine. So what can I do? Nothing but pick it up. Drive it home. 3 days later and it works! I take it to DMV to get it inspected no problems. Go home park it and 4 days later...dead again. I'm bringing it back this week.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone have any clue why batteries would keep getting shot like this. They claim my alternator is good and they have checked it 3 times now and I'm sure they'd be happy to charge me for a new one since the car is now out of warranty. I read somewhere that there are 2 batteries in the 2016s, one for starts and the main one. Is that true? But when I say the car is dead, its dead. Not even the LED dome lights come on. Plus it takes a long time charging it off my truck to even get it to try to start. Is there some relay that gets smoked after too many low voltage events or something? The dealership seems to have no interest in fixing this but if I bring it to another one I just don't want to go through the same disaster. Assuming they actually changed my original battery, I cannot believe I got 3 bad batteries in a row. There is nothing plugged into the car to draw power. For the first 4 years we had the car, I could let it sit for two months or more with no battery tender (I know not the best idea) and it would start with no issues. Since the original battery died, it will not last for more than a few days before it is dead again. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.