For those who are interested in such things, I dumped the factory fill oil and changed the filter at 2754 miles on my 2021 Jaguar F Type R and sent the sample to Blackstone Labs. The engine is the 5.0 Liter Supercharged V8. Note that Jaguar/Land Rover requires the specially formulated Castrol Edge Professional EC5, specification STJLR.03.5006 in 0W-20 which is only available from dealerships and is different from the off the shelf Castrol Edge and Edge Professional blends. I am assuming the EC5 specification is what the factory fill oil was. I bought the new oil for the refill at the dealership for $12.95 a quart and an OEM filter was about $32.

I am surprised at the low levels of Moly. My understanding is that a lot of manufacturers use a high moly oil blend or even add some to new engines to help the break in process. The owners manual says 16,000 mile OCI's are recommended. I'll probably pull another sample at around the 7500 mile mark but am apprehensive about running 16k mile OCI's. There has been a lot of discussion over the years on many automobile forums about changing out the factory fill oil early on a new car. I don't think leaving that oil in my car for 16,000 miles before the first change would have given a very confidence inspiring report. The good news is that Jaguar gives free oil & filter changes every 16,000 miles or 1 year while the car is under warranty. For those of you who drive your Jags a limited amount of miles each year it certainly is a good idea to take advantage of the free service and get that factory oil changed out in far less than 16,000 miles.

The report is attached. Comments are appreciated.

 

Thanks for sharing. I've always been inclined to do the initial oil change around 2k miles, even if it's out of pocket. Past that, I utilized the free maintenance while it lasted (which gave me a second change the first year), and annually ever since. Like most on the forum, I don't drive anywhere close to 16k miles a year, so I'm not pushing the limits. But, there's enough mixed into your results to make me feel good about that plan.

 

There's another thread on oil analysis. I've put at least one of my reports up there. I had analyses done at 500, 4200, and then at 6500 when I did my first change. The difference between 4200 and 6500 was minimal. If I'd had time I'd have changed at about 5k. Even at 6500 my aluminum was less than your 2700 mile sample, but iron slightly higher. Still nothing to worry about. Things settled to really good numbers once I was over 15K miles, and even one change with 10,500 on the oil still got a glowing report, including the TBN.

 

Just my opinion. I, and I would imagine few here, would go 16k without an oil and filter change. Oil made in the last 25 plus years is great stuff. But, filter technology seems stagnant. I've seen BMW filters with near 15k miles and it's frightening. The filter shrinks and distorts and feels dry. Not for me.

 

Just curous what the oil looked like - how black/dirty?

 

The low Moly in the factory fill oil is normal, the special Unobtainium Castrol brew right from the start (2009) was low in Moly and counterbalanced by being especially high in Titanium. They even spruik the high Titanium content on the bottle. I have read that JLR claim that the catalytic converters don't play nice with high Moly but they are quite happy with high Titanium.
Thing is I have never used Castrol in my Jags including the F-Type and instead I have always used Oz products Nulon or Penrite of the correct spec and weight but high in Moly and low (or zero) Titanium and I have never had the slightest hint of any cat converter problem.

 

This subject wanders through the car forums routinely. I hope I don't insult anyone with the remainder of my post, that's not my intention.
Just for starters, my background is with Caterpillar and their powertrain items...40 years of it. Trust me, Caterpillar components are spec'd and manufactured light years ahead of just about any powertrain components in any automobile manufactured today. I am quite certain Jaguar, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Honda, Ford, General Motors, Chrysler and Lord knows what ever else auto manufacturers, have a team of Chemical Engineers and/or access to a team of experts, to decide what kind, weight and chemistry, etc., of lubrication their component should use. As far as running oil samples, go ahead and draw and have them run, but the lab and likely yourselves will not know the exact formulas the manufacturers are desiring and demanding...they are trade secrets, in most cases. To try and out think the automotive spec of the type of oil to use, at least in my opinion, is fool hardy. Those guys do it for a living and are the professionals.
Not that it matters, in my opinion, use the spec and grade of oil/lubrication the automobile manufacturer calls for in the owners manual.

 

The oil that I removed was as black as any oil I have removed from other cars when doing an oil change every 5000 miles. But I have also read that some oils will oxidize or whatever it is that causes them to turn black quicker than others and that isn't necessarily an indicator of how dirty or "used up" the oil is.

For example, I have a Mazda CX 5 with the 2.5 liter turbocharged engine. I ran Castrol Edge 5W-30 through it for the first 10,000 miles. It now has Mobil 1 EP in the engine. I just checked the oil level at about 12,750 miles on the odometer and the oil on the dipstick was still a nice amber color. We'll see if it is black when I change it at 15,000 miles but I was quite surprised that it hadn't turned black after about 2750 miles on that last change.

OzXFR I noticed how high the titanium was compared the the Universal Averages and was curious about that. Thanks for the explanation.

Lizzardo I went back and read your previous posts on oil analysis's. Thanks for your comments, good information to know for other owners

 

I can vouch for that statement (at least for GM)

We had an ex-GM, current ExxonMobil chemical engineer give a talk to one of our car clubs. Interesting guy. Lots of anecdotes.

 

Thanks for the info. I never wasted a minute of my time putting factory fill. Everything about Jaguar, Ford and others around 2009 became about emissions. MPG. Thin oils and lack of additives that are bad for the cats or environnement. There are no ''performance'' oils in 0W20 or 5W20. Just buy some Mobil 1 extended performance and do oil changes often depending on your driving conditions.

 

Just be careful which Mobil One formula you use. There’s a European Formula and a USA formula. Most European cars need the European formula which has a different additive package than the USA formula. Mobil Oil will tell you not to interchange the oil fill. Benz’s and BMW’s are supposed to take the European formula, so I’d guess the Jaguar would be the same. You are not to use the European formula in American cars…like Corvettes and Vipers. Some people say that’s Bull ****, but I’d recommend following the manufacturer’s advice. Those 2 oils definitely have different additive packages, guaranteed.

 

I've just used the 0w20 Castrol synthetic you can get at any auto parts store. Been using it for the last 3 years and had 93k miles on my R, with not one issue. But I am religious when it comes to oil changes. I do it every 3-5k miles. I don't care if it's a waste. It's the single most important thing you put into the engine, so yes I go overboard with it lol.

 

One thing I learned for the AJ133,
I would never ever run any oil for more than 5000 miles or 6000 miles if I have to.

It is a $100 job with parts/materials and you can do it home without having to go to the dealership. As for what type of oil almost all new synthetic oils with SN+ or SP ratings will work just fine.

Best of Luck.
Sam

 

what is so special on the V8 F Type Engine?

 

I would certainly use nothing but the factory recommended oil while the car remains under warranty. The additive package in the Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20 was updated back in 2018 so I have to assume that the Jaguar engineers and the Castrol engineers determined that certain additives were beneficial and they weren't available or weren't in the levels that are optimum in most if not all off the shelf oils.

I am a bit skeptical though on the requirement for 0W-20, I'll bet that was specified to get that extra 1/2 mile per gallon out of the fuel consumption. Some have reported that their V8's run great on 05W-30. But I'll still stick with what JLR recommends.

 

That 1/2 mile per gallon really makes a difference with a V8!

 

He meant 1/200th gallon.

I'm still using the equivalent Ford spec for either 0W-20 or 5W-20.