That does sound a bit noisy for a warmed up engine. That’s more reminiscent of the sound you get after a cold start up.

 

The results are in:

Looks like there was a loose/disconnected vacuum hose along with oil leaks in the brake and power steering pumps

Beyond that, they are thinking the injectors may be sticking and should be replaced. Aux battery is dead (which is fine by me, I don't want the start/stop anyway) and the primary battery is at 75% (both likely the originals) but I'll deal with replacing that myself to save a few dollars.

I think I'm going to pass on the batteries and injectors for the time being and see how things go with the other repairs.

Anyone have any thoughts about the pumps needing to be replaced based on the videos linked below? And the cost of repairs quoted?

Quote breakdown:


Link to videos from the shop diagnosis below:
https://app.truvideo.com/v/bw4ra0?s=...==&jwsource=cl

 

Do you have a tune? If so, BUSTED.

 

I did not put a tune on it (only had it 4 months). The first shop I took it to thought it may have a tune based on the code, but the shop it’s at now thinks it may just be out of date, not a tune.

I talked to the previous owner over the weekend and he said he did have it tuned for a week shortly after he got it (original owner) but went back to stock because the CEL kept coming on with the tune. So that’s reassuring.

Anyway, I let the shop it’s at know all of that but they still don’t think it’s currently tuned.

 

The fact that a non-OEM Tune was on it for even a short period of time is enough to trigger the non-OEM tune code permanently.

The diagnostic video is a fabulous customer service offering provided by the shop!

 

Yep, code P167F as shown in post #21.
You can clear it until the cows come home but then it will just pop right up again, don't ask how I know this!

 

What happens if you reconnect the disconnected hose? Could it be a 5 min fix?

 

My reading of the report in post #42 is that they did reconnect that hose.

 

It seems that way. It’s still at the shop overnight — I told them I was going to decide on whether or not I wanted to replace the pumps. Seems a bit excessive cost wise (over $2k) to replace both of those.

It sounds like I’ll be paying at least $450 for plugging the hose back in and the diagnostic that lead to that discovery.

They made it sound like the power steering pump was a bit more of a serious issue given how flammable that liquid is. I’m seeing if I can get a more competitive quote for those replacements which I suspect I will.

 

I do appreciate the customer service, but I think I paid for the ‘above and beyond’ treatment based on the quote I received and what they ultimately ‘repaired’ for $450.

They all seem like nice, honest guys and do a thorough job which I certainly appreciate, but I’m planning to take their findings to a more competitively priced shop to make the actual repairs.

 

As a latest update on this saga, I took it into another shop this morning to get both pumps replaced for about $600-$700 less than I was quoted by the previous shop. I also ordered a new primary battery and will likely be getting rid of the secondary battery altogether for the weight savings since it's dead anyway.

In regards to the CEL and general engine issues, it seems reconnecting the vacuum line fixed the main problems I was experiencing with the engine running rough and throwing a CEL under hard acceleration. However, now it seems to be somewhat of the opposite problem where it is running rougher than before when idling and I also noticed when I give it the slightest bit of gas by just barely pressing the pedal when stopped it seems to delay or give out a bit if that make sense?

When I talked about it with the tech at the latest shop, he recommended I 'go drive the hell out of it' since that can help free up some build up in the direct injectors that can cause a rough idle. I put a can of Seafoam in the gas tank over the weekend so am hoping that also helps eliminate any carbon or build up to prevent or at least delay replacing the injectors.

Should be getting it back midday tomorrow and will report back after I'm able to test it out.

 

If the Seafoam doesn't work try a can of BG 44K. It's what JLR dealerships use to treat/clean the fuel lines and injectors.
If that doesn't work then try a can of CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRC-INDUSTR...sAAOSwKWhdRIDc
From all my reading and research on clogged/carboned up injectors these two products work a lot better then Seafoam.

 

Thanks @OzXFR

I used the Seafoam for the time being as that was the best option I could find on short notice at a local store. I had seen another thread or two discussing BG 44K and was planning on ordering some. Will definitely be doing so and giving that a try as well.

Will I need to plan on an oil change after using any of these? I'm assuming one is being done during the pump replacement happening now, but if I use a can of BG 44K should I do another afterward?

 

No need to do an oil change after using BG 44K, but maybe after using the CRC gear.
The difference is the BG 44K potentially cleans up some carbon deposits from the combustion chambers, injectors, fuel lines etc but it doesn't (and can't) touch the inlet tracts or backs of the inlet valves (being a GDI engine) so not a helluva lot of carbon by volume, but the CRC attacks the (possibly large) build ups of carbon crud in the inlet tracts and on the backs of the inlet valves, so potentially a lot more carbon crud being flushed into the oil.
I applied the CRC treatment just after my last oil change a couple of months ago, not by design but because I didn't figure out how to easily apply the CRC treatment until after the oil change.
But when I do my next oil change in four months' time I will apply the CRC treatment immediately before I drain the old oil.
In the long run it probably doesn't make a helluva lot of difference but these engines are fussy with oil quality etc so I figure every little bit helps!

 

Yes, competition keeps everyone above board but
I have a solid long term relationship with a couple of dealers. I don’t play one off the other. And I get great, dependable, affordable service.
its simple, I take the car in a a moments notice. It’s fixed promptly, I get it back... Time and headaches are money too.
That is, the price I pay is discounted from any estimate.

it is just that it seems to me your issues are larger than a sea foam treatment... and I hope your car remains as enjoyable to you as mine is to me.

Btw, for one would replace the second battery. Even if I didn’t care about the fuel savings I care about the unnecessary fumes.

FWIW.
Cheers

 

+1.

 

+1. As per usual, Oz is saving me quite a bit of typing. If the engine is running rough, It should be throwing a code or two. Double check to see if you have codes that aren’t triggering the CEL light.

 

As hopefully the final chapter of this story, I got the car back this afternoon after having the power steering and brake vacuum pumps replaced.

I took the advice of the shop tech and went and ‘drove it like hell’ for a couple hours afterwards.

I am happy to report there is no CEL appearing and after going for the drive it does seem like the rough idle has smoothed out. Fingers crossed it stays that way for some time 🤞

The shop also got me in touch with a local supplier of BG 44K and other BG products so will be grabbing some of those to run through the system.

Thanks to everyone for the help along the way! It seems as though the main engine issue was nothing more than a loose/disconnected vacuum hose. And while I’m not happy about the expense to fix, that problem also alerted me to the fact there were leaks to the pumps that if not replaced could have caused more serious problems.

 

Glad it worked out. A good lesson learned is to recognize the incompetence of shops like the first one which hook up an OBD reader and start quoting $thousands without even the most rudimentary visual inspection. DIY is the way to go until you can no longer proceed.

 

Gents, similar issue with mine after doing three hard pulls (0-60mph) in a row one day. CEL stayed on and car went into "limp mode". I will say that I lost traction on the last pull and bounced off the rev limiter so I was hoping that was the cause of CEL to stay one. I pulled over, restarted vehicle and CEL went away and car was back to normal. 2 days later as the car was being driven to Jag service facility in Indy, CEL came on and it was P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1. Dealer got the same code and ended up replacing the catalytic converter. I am wondering if our cars are more susceptible to 02 and catalytic converter issues with all the overrun (bang/pops? going through the system? I am probably the culprit here with every time I drive the car I use Dynamic and feather the gas pedal religiously.....but that is the attraction to me with my car. Car has almost 42k miles on it for reference.