I have a bit over 3K miles on my 2021 R-Dynamic P380.
I drive fast but usually apply the brake gently when slowing.
As yet, I have not had many hard or emergency brakings.
I have seen little to no dust on the wheels.
These are standard wheels, standard brakes, standard calipers.
Of course, if you do harsh braking all the time then you eat your pads and get dust.
For the record, we do not see much dust on our Audi A7 or Jeep Grand Cherokee.

 

best thing that works is I wipe down my wheels with a rag after driving. If you do this every time it doesn’t build up or bake on and comes off with a quick dusting of the wheel with a rag. No biggie! Just do it regularly and it’s easy. Just something to live with when you have huge performance breaks.

 

I do love my Jag but some of you guys are a bit too obsessive - it's a car!!

 

I use EBC Red pads on my Jags and my Maserati. Very little dust but I don’t know if they’re available for your ‘21 Ftype. I fly airliners with carbon brakes. They are less effective when cold but work great when they heat up.

 

Do you wipe down the jet's wheels after landing?

 

I found them at all imports in Dallas tx forest Ln they might have what you are looking for good luck.

 

just installed porterfield RS4s on my F. Initially brake dust doesn’t seem to be much less than standard pads but I’m hoping it will reduce significantly once the pads have fully broken in. Fingers crossed. I also thoroughly cleaned and ceramic coated my wheels while I was changing the pads

 

just a car!!!!!!! Wash your mouth out with soap young man. I fortunate to own both a Gtr and an f type v8 convertible. The jag is my go to pretty much every time. Freakin fun and beautiful to look at.

 

Don’t forget to bed the pads in with some hard braking.

 

lol.

just love the internet. that’s exactly the opposite directions given by ebc for braking in their products.

https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-t...urban-driving/

Z

 

No, bedding is not necessary. This is a new car with 850 miles on it. Never been run hard or punished in any way....followed the factory break in procedure to a "T". Changing pads for dusting issues is not new for me...I've done it on all my toys when they were new....never bedded any of them and all worked out perfectly. Just can't do any significant hard braking for a couple hundred miles on the new Porterfield 4S's.
'95 Viper, '99 Viper, '13 GTR, '16 Z06, '18 Challenger Hellcat and '18 Z06............

 

Well, I installed new OEM rotors at the same time as the R4-S pads. Braking was pretty weak until I had a chance to do some hard 60-30, 60-10, etc. stops. Might have eventually been fine if I didn’t do this, don’t see anything on Porterfield’s site about breaking in the R4-S. Presumably, new rotors had a lot to do with it. Hadn’t experienced this on non-performance cars.

Sounds like you know what you’re doing, and I don’t, so I’ll shut up now.

 

Wow, EBC’s instructions are extremely long and probably so to cover their a$$. I can’t imagine having to “use brakes with minimal pressure for 100 miles”, then slightly more for next 250, etc...sounds dangerous to me as your braking power is significantly low.

I’ve always followed Hawk’s bedding procedure: https://www.hawkperformance.com/how-to

and from personal experience, bought a Mazda RX7 which previous owner had just installed new rotors and pads...he did not bed the pads and the car would pull to the right when braking. After days of troubleshooting including bleeding and re-bleeding, replacing caliper due to broken bleeder, etc, ended up bedding properly and finally had full braking capabilities. To each their own but I know which procedure I will perform every time I replace pads...this is assuming high performance pads. Standard pads, say for my 4Runner, I still bed them but do it slower and over more miles. Key is to make sure not to stop and make sure they cool.

 

I have the EBC red stuff on my XF and if you read their bedding in procedure it has you doing about 100 miles gently to ensure the pad surface is fully flat with rotor surface. Then it asks for 10 runs of hard braking from 60 to 10 mph in quick succession. So that's a pretty typical full bed in

Strangely the Porterfield R4S don't appear to ask for any bed in procedure as someone else noted. My performance brake shop says it's still needed. Porterfield does not.
Not sure who is right on that.

 

ebc also has different brake in procedures for track cars vs street cars.

Z

 

+1 - I keep all my rides pretty clean (I’m fortunate to not have a daily commute for work which makes it easier), but I can’t imagine washing the wheels every drive.

like the previous post, I also went to porterfield pads and don’t notice a huge difference in dust. I also ceramic coated my wheels and it does make it a bit easier, but by no means is it maintenance free to keep the wheels and barrels clean. I know someone suggested my aftermarket rotors causing more brake dust, but I’ve been through a lot of rotors and many sets of pads over the years and the only way to have no dust is to put the car in a bubble.

 

Actually they have you doing 100 miles + 250 miles minimum of EASY braking BEFORE the10 hard stop 60 to zero.


direct quote from ebc:

“

• Use brakes with minimal pressure for the first 100 miles from urban speeds of 30-50 mph only.
• Drive a further 250 miles using slightly increased brake pressure and load UNLESS in an emergency in which case apply the brake as hard as required.
• Look for a full-width contact across the pad depth( rotor braking band) from the outer edge of the disc to the inner and if not achieved allow a further 100-200 miles of steady driving. You will see a blue-ish band evidencing contact across the rotor face. Until this band goes from the outer to the inner edges of the brake disc/rotor the pads have NOT yet fully seated. When installing new rotors, reduced width banding is quite possible due to various tolerances and slight misalignments in the vehicle chassis and is NOT a warranty defect or a reason to remove and inspect brakes. Many European cars have SINGLE PISTON CALIPERS and these tend to “Flair” open and cause the contact band described above only to be seen at the outer edge of the disc/rotor and work its way inwards taking up to 1000 miles to do so.
• After the full-width contact band is attained make a further 10 stops from 60 mph to 10 mph in succession with a deliberate attempt to get the brakes hot

 

I am far from being an expert with regard to the bedding procedure question as to "is it necessary". But I do have an opinion based on my personal experience on five cars I bought brand new, less than 10 miles on the odometer on all of them. They were....
2013 Nissan GTR , 2016 Z06 Corvette, 2018 Challenger Hellcat, 2018 Jaguar F type R and 2018 Z06 Corvette.
Each of those cars produced pretty filthy wheels after 50 to 75 or so miles of travel. I'm nerdy enough that I didn't like it and prior to any of them getting to 1000 miles, I switched brake pads to a "low dust" version without doing anything else to the braking system...nothing. In every case I drove those cars as any new car owner has generally been told, easy on your braking for the first couple hundred miles...no power braking if you can help it. I never experience any problems with the braking on any of them, after that.
I likened those new pads were put on a car with a practically new brake system....no bedding required other than to be easy on them the first couple hundred miles, just like a new, 0 miles car. I can't speak for "race or track cars" with new pads, just what I experienced. Take it for what it's worth, but word for word, it's true.

 

I generally change brakes with rotors so I do believe in bedding them to Kate the surfaces - usually a few 25 - 35 - 45mph to zero stops and some slightly harder than normal initial pressure on a few stops seems to work. I have seen smoke coming from people bedding them 70+ mph to zero repeatedly. I can’t imagine that being a recommend procedure.

 

We had an 03 and 06 Mini Cooper S and the wheels were dirty within a few hours. S100 is cleaner used by motorcyclists and it really works!