Hi,

im just new to this group so forgive me if this has been covered, I have been searching for some of the info but cannot seem to find it.

I’m pretty familiar with changing brake pads and discs, had no problems with my old XE and my wife’s current F Pace.
the time has now come to replace both the front and rear pads and discs/rotors on my F Type. I don’t need instructions on how to or what and where however I want to know the torque settings for the below, both front and rear as having issues finding this online:

Caliper Bolts - (115Nm seems to be floated around online for the front)
Caliper Guide Pins - (58Nm is what one user posted on YouTube for the front)
Wheel Nuts - 125Nm I think this is pretty accurate from what I have seen elsewhere

I would also like to find out what the hub nut torque is. I had a stud snap and Jag recommend replacing the whole hub rather than just the stud itself (you cannot buy these). I cannot find anywhere what the torque setting is for this and the bolts on the plate.

Please can anyone assist me with these?

Many thanks in advance.

 

See below:
Caliper Bolts - (115Nm seems to be floated around online for the front) - Torque Specification:115 Nm (85 lb. ft)
Caliper Guide Pins - (58Nm is what one user posted on YouTube for the front) - 58 Nm (43 lb. ft)
Wheel Nuts - 125Nm I think this is pretty accurate from what I have seen elsewhere - 125 Nm (92 lb.ft.).

DC

 

Perfect - thank you very much, appreciated.

 

You CAN buy the studs, just take one into a specialist "nut and bolt" store or an auto parts store and there is a good chance they can match it. I have busted two of the studs on my spacers, I took the busted one into a Repco store (Oz auto parts store) and they had perfectly matching ones in stock.
OEM versions also come up from time to time on Fleabay ect, you don't need an "F-Type" stud as the wheel studs are identical across all modern Jags - XF, XJ, XK, F-Type etc etc.
BUT to get the broken stud out of the hub you do need to remove the hub so you can hammer/punch the stud out from the back side.
Still a helluva lot cheaper than replacing the whole hub!

Edit - whoops I got it the wrong way around - you punch/hammer the broken stud out from the front of the hub but it's very difficult to line it up with a gap behind and most of the time it ends up bashing against the hub carrier which could cause some damage.
And as far as I know it's impossible to fit the new stud without removing the hub so you might as well remove it first then bash the broken stud out up on your workbench.

 

Thanks, this is really good to know.

I did get the old one out by cutting it in half with a grinder and then tapping it out very easily from the front. This was before I didn’t realise they sold replacements as Jag told me you need to replace the whole hub!

As you say I have found a couple of XJ ones on eBay, only a few pounds which is obviously a lot cheaper than a new hub. Now I have the repair workshop manual with all the correct torque settings seems very easy just to remove the hub with the 4 bolts that attach it, pop the new stud in and put it back.

Very pleased I joined this forum, got the answers very quickly compared to scouring google for hours! 😀