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I am looking to upgrade my rotor and pads. My rotors are pretty done. I plan on tracking once every month , I will prob go with drilled/slotted rotors and can you guys suggest some suitable pads, friendly for track and everyday driving.
The big question is, I don't know which brake/rotor size set up i have . I read that there's 3 different set ups right? I dont want to order the wrong size rotors/pads
2017 British Edition S 3.0 RWD
Thanks for your help! !! So close, I thought mine was the 325 rear.
as for the brake pads, I can pretty much use what ever correct
The 325 and 376 rears look similar other than of course the actual diameter of the rotors. I know coz my car came with 325 rears and I swapped them out for 376 rears myself! The giveaway and the only real difference in appearance is the much wider blank/void around the hub on the 376's, the gloss black area in your pic.
To make double sure you can whip a rear wheel off and simply measure the diameter yourself, a rough measure will be good enough to tell.
I won't give any advice or opinion on suitable pads or rotors for your purpose as I don't track my car, just to say that the choice of 376 pads and rotors is not as great as 325.
Edit - just to check I went out to the shed and had a look at my old 325 mm rear rotors and they also have a big void in the middle which I had forgotten about.
So ignore my advice above you very well could have 325 mm rear brakes and your best bet is to whip a rear wheel off and measure one.
The 325 and 376 rears look similar other than of course the actual diameter of the rotors. I know coz my car came with 325 rears and I swapped them out for 376 rears myself! The giveaway and the only real difference in appearance is the much wider blank/void around the hub on the 376's, the gloss black area in your pic.
To make double sure you can whip a rear wheel off and simply measure the diameter yourself, a rough measure will be good enough to tell.
I won't give any advice or opinion on suitable pads or rotors for your purpose as I don't track my car, just to say that the choice of 376 pads and rotors is not as great as 325.
Edit - just to check I went out to the shed and had a look at my old 325 mm rear rotors and they also have a big void in the middle which I had forgotten about.
So ignore my advice above you very well could have 325 mm rear brakes and your best bet is to whip a rear wheel off and measure one.
Oh really, shooot haha
I was planning on ordering the rotors and pads tomorrow morning. Need it by this coming Friday for track
hmmm... will this rotor size info be in the manual? ill have a look later
Oh really, shooot haha
I was planning on ordering the rotors and pads tomorrow morning. Need it by this coming Friday for track
hmmm... will this rotor size info be in the manual? ill have a look later
There is nothing in the owner manual or workshop manual which will help you.
You only need a rough measurement of a rear rotor diameter to tell if they are 376 or 325 and you should be able to do that without taking a wheel off with just a tape rule or a measuring tape.
The rear discs look way too small to be the 376mm Super Performance brakes. Generally, Super Performance brake calipers are red, but yours look to have been painted so you can't use the color as a guide. The poster above who suggests measuring to be sure is correct. You can be fairly certain you don't have the Super Performance brakes, though because the rear rotors are considerably smaller than the fronts. If you had the Super Performance brakes, the difference would be only 4mm.
Let's assume that you have the 380mm front and 325mm rear discs. You can get Brembo discs for a song.
The part numbers:
380mm front: Brembo 09D43311 https://eeuroparts.com/product/brembo/09D43311
A few weeks ago, I bought a full set (front and rear) from eEuroparts.com for $327 including tax and shipping. I received them within 3 days.
Every instructor I've had for HPDE run solid and not slotted or drilled rotors, and I've seen multiple people with drilled rotors crack them on the track. You'll hear other opinions on this, but solid discs don't crack as often as slotted or drilled. Slotted and drilled rotors serve the purpose of reducing outgassing that can lead to fade. So it is a choice between a predictable, very mild reduction in brake performance toward the end of extremely hard sessions or catastrophic failure with a crack, that will end your track day unless you have an extra set of rotors with you.
Brake pad wise, if you are a beginner, the stock pads are going to be just fine as long as they are nearly new. I've tracked my F-Type on a track that was very hard on brakes with stock pads and rotors and had no fade. And I was braking really hard. Just be aware that as pads wear down, there is less material to dissipate the heat and so the 2nd half of the pad will wear much faster and fade more quickly than the 1st half of the pad. So you want more than 50% left anytime you go out on the track. When you are new to the track, having lots of meat on your pads will be more important than the compound, as long as we're talking about the stock pads and not a low dust ceramic, which is terrible on the track.
Pad wise, there aren't a lot of options for us. EBC Yellow Stuff, but you won't get them in time to follow the correct brake in procedure. They have a high friction surface to "scub" off old pad material from discs, so no hard braking for the first 200-500 miles or you'll eat into your disc. For this reason, EBC no longer recommends Yellow Stuff as a track pad due to the extended bed-in time. EBC doesn't make Blue Stuff for these brakes, which would be a better alternative.
Porterfield R-4's (not RS-4, which is a street pad) would be worth a go based on feedback from this forum. Not sure you'd get them in time.
If you really are tracking monthly, you'll want a proper track pad, which will be noisy on the street but will last you many track days. You can contact Carbotech and have them make a set for you. These will be pricey but will last a good number of track days (10-15) even for advanced drivers. These pads won't be ready by for first track event.
Other than pads, you need to change to a brake fluid temperature that has a higher dry boiling point, like Motul RBF 660. Changing your brake fluid is a requirement of the tech inspection that is likely needed for your track day. Groups have various requirements here: some require new fluid within one month, some within 4 months, etc., but you don't want to track with old fluid since it is hygroscopic and this lowers the boiling point and you will get fade.
I'm sure you'll get other opinions here. Good luck with your track day. Consider getting insurance through Hagerty or Lockton Motorsports. You'll feel more comfortable pushing unless you're willing to write off the car.
The rear discs look way too small to be the 376mm Super Performance brakes. Generally, Super Performance brake calipers are red, but yours look to have been painted so you can't use the color as a guide. The poster above who suggests measuring to be sure is correct. You can be fairly certain you don't have the Super Performance brakes, though because the rear rotors are considerably smaller than the fronts. If you had the Super Performance brakes, the difference would be only 4mm.
Let's assume that you have the 380mm front and 325mm rear discs. You can get Brembo discs for a song.
The part numbers:
380mm front: Brembo 09D43311 https://eeuroparts.com/product/brembo/09D43311
A few weeks ago, I bought a full set (front and rear) from eEuroparts.com for $327 including tax and shipping. I received them within 3 days.
Every instructor I've had for HPDE run solid and not slotted or drilled rotors, and I've seen multiple people with drilled rotors crack them on the track. You'll hear other opinions on this, but solid discs don't crack as often as slotted or drilled. Slotted and drilled rotors serve the purpose of reducing outgassing that can lead to fade. So it is a choice between a predictable, very mild reduction in brake performance toward the end of extremely hard sessions or catastrophic failure with a crack, that will end your track day unless you have an extra set of rotors with you.
Brake pad wise, if you are a beginner, the stock pads are going to be just fine as long as they are nearly new. I've tracked my F-Type on a track that was very hard on brakes with stock pads and rotors and had no fade. And I was braking really hard. Just be aware that as pads wear down, there is less material to dissipate the heat and so the 2nd half of the pad will wear much faster and fade more quickly than the 1st half of the pad. So you want more than 50% left anytime you go out on the track. When you are new to the track, having lots of meat on your pads will be more important than the compound, as long as we're talking about the stock pads and not a low dust ceramic, which is terrible on the track.
Pad wise, there aren't a lot of options for us. EBC Yellow Stuff, but you won't get them in time to follow the correct brake in procedure. They have a high friction surface to "scub" off old pad material from discs, so no hard braking for the first 200-500 miles or you'll eat into your disc. For this reason, EBC no longer recommends Yellow Stuff as a track pad due to the extended bed-in time. EBC doesn't make Blue Stuff for these brakes, which would be a better alternative.
Porterfield R-4's (not RS-4, which is a street pad) would be worth a go based on feedback from this forum. Not sure you'd get them in time.
If you really are tracking monthly, you'll want a proper track pad, which will be noisy on the street but will last you many track days. You can contact Carbotech and have them make a set for you. These will be pricey but will last a good number of track days (10-15) even for advanced drivers. These pads won't be ready by for first track event.
Other than pads, you need to change to a brake fluid temperature that has a higher dry boiling point, like Motul RBF 660. Changing your brake fluid is a requirement of the tech inspection that is likely needed for your track day. Groups have various requirements here: some require new fluid within one month, some within 4 months, etc., but you don't want to track with old fluid since it is hygroscopic and this lowers the boiling point and you will get fade.
I'm sure you'll get other opinions here. Good luck with your track day. Consider getting insurance through Hagerty or Lockton Motorsports. You'll feel more comfortable pushing unless you're willing to write off the car.
The above are great data. I used to do a lot of track and just got spoiled on one thing- - CASTROL SRF brake fluid. It has a wet boil temp that is way above most ...almost the same as the dry boil off. For me that meant once per season on it if tracking... with it I never had brake fluid issues (high powered 996tt with full suspension, cage, harnesses, etc.....). I have SRF in my car now and have not had an issue....perhaps a waste of money but I plan to use it instead of normal fluid with standard intervals.....just me and just in case I find myself at a track.... I don't really understand the 32x versus 37x in the rear issue. The larger brakes "look" better but the fronts are doing 90% of the work and in my opinion I'd rather lose the 5-10lbs per rotor in the rear overall.... Jaguar tunes the rears to handle all the magical abs tricks anyway so the size doesn't matter. I don't think (at a rate of use any of us would get to ....would love to see data) the larger rears stop better at all - to me the sweet spot is the big in front and the small in back - from a performance point of view. Carbon's obviously would be great until you need new rotors. The fancy 2 piece rotors from England many here bought in a group buy would be great until you need a new one....contacted them and they don't have any more and don't plan to make more....to me a key part of things is replacement parts. So, I got brembo rotors for my F type that are standard in all ways....even weight. Silver in color....boring. They are made in China as are many others - the quality seems top tier. HPDE instructor grade is what we called them back in the day. While they don't make rotors for our cars, KNS brakes has a great website and you can see the rotors they offer up as their "house rotors"...made by DBA....that is perhaps the ideal rotor to track with unless you are paid to drive.....great wear, cheap, no cracking. BREMBO's oem's are as close to these as I could find. Jaguar OEM parts are great too, but a lot more expensive. The HPDE instructor choice is telling and I agree with all the above poster said. Simple is better. Cracked rotors ruin you day and can damage a lot of stuff...have seen wheels get gouged, etc. I had cracked holes in oem 996 rotors....got rid of holes immediately. The holes are for looks.
Last edited by jcb-memphis; 06-20-2022 at 09:13 AM.
Okay so this morning i grabbed my iphone and used the MEASURE app, did the front rotors got about 14.5-14.75 in ( it's not that accurate) and the rear got about 14.5. Looking at them they look almost same size. I also got a tape measure and got about the same measurements. I can 99% say I am certain these are 380 front and 376 rear.
Thanks for all your inputs. really appreciate it. No just have to pick pads.
So i shouldn't go ceramic????
If i track once a month or once every 2 months how long do you think the slotted and drilled rotors will last? I am in the novice/point by group if that makes a difference.
I tracked last month and I did notice brake fade towards the end of day . off topic but The biggest thing with these f types, they run so hot. the engine was scorching my face was hot just standing by the opened hood lol
You guys are braver than I; I can't imagine tracking a $$$$$ car that weighs 3800-4000 lbs full-up. I come from a background of tracking cars that weigh half as much, and ones that I'm mentally/financially prepared to walk away from should they get balled up.
That said, regarding all the comments here, yes, you want the largest possible vented discs, undrilled. One thing that hasn't be mentioned is to add air ducts to the eye of the front discs. It'll take some work but makes a HUGE difference. Several drivers I knew said that during events, they'd unknowingly had one hose come off, and lost much of the braking on that side of the car. Adding the ducting will take some work but is inexpensive.
Definitely no ceramic brakes pads. They are great for low-noise, low-dust street driving. Absolutely terrible on the track. Ceramic pads are the opposite of what you want on a track. Don't confuse ceramic pads with "Carbon Ceramic Brakes" which are a completely different animal. CCB's are about $2,500 just for one rotor.
As kb58 posts more accurately than I did, "vented" and "undrilled" discs are what you are looking for. I called them "solid", which of course they are not, but it was my shorthand for saying not slotted or drilled. The Brembo ones I linked above are vented, and not drilled nor slotted.
Pad wise, you're now essentially shopping for the same pads that an F-Type R would have, except for one with CCB's. I'll do some looking and reply with options.
Definitely no ceramic brakes pads. They are great for low-noise, low-dust street driving. Absolutely terrible on the track. Ceramic pads are the opposite of what you want on a track. Don't confuse ceramic pads with "Carbon Ceramic Brakes" which are a completely different animal. CCB's are about $2,500 just for one rotor.
As kb58 posts more accurately than I did, "vented" and "undrilled" discs are what you are looking for. I called them "solid", which of course they are not, but it was my shorthand for saying not slotted or drilled. The Brembo ones I linked above are vented, and not drilled nor slotted.
Pad wise, you're now essentially shopping for the same pads that an F-Type R would have, except for one with CCB's. I'll do some looking and reply with options.
Yeah I was confusing it with Carbon Ceramic. awesome, thanks for the link. please do send some suitable pads if u know any =)
Oh and to anyone thinking of tracking their beautiful F-Type, even if everything goes great, you WILL get rock chips and dings, plus possibly new "stars" in the windscreen glass. I one time found a 3"-long 1/2" diameter bolt IN my headlight. I can't imagine a track car losing such a big bolt and being able to continue, but I digress.
I have the whole front end of my cars wrapped and have had no issues on track the last five years. I track about 6-10 days a year. No issues with windshields. If you want extra protection for the paint, you can wrap the front in Track Armour, which isn't pretty but it works.
Can you get a rock chip or a cracked windshield on the track? Sure. The only personal connection I have to a cracked windshield involving a track was my neighbor, who has tracked for 30+ years and he got a rock chip in his Ferrari F430.....on his way from our hotel to the track (CMP).
I mostly track at places that don't have gravel, though. If the track has gravel pits, that would increase your likelihood of an issue. VIR, CMP, and Watkins Glen don't have gravel run offs.
Re: chips.
...I mostly track at places that don't have gravel, though. If the track has gravel pits, that would increase your likelihood of an issue. VIR, CMP, and Watkins Glen don't have gravel run offs.
Willow Springs does have the problem, so yes, very dependent upon venue.
The main thing I found the first time I tracked mine (Gingerman, MI) was all the pieces of rubber that other's track tires shed that were stuck either in my tires, inside the wheel barrel, etc.
The 2nd (and last) time was at a track that was closed - a relative was involved in the construction of it, and was able to invite a small number of us over to do whatever we wanted. Scary as hell track, with no rules, and basically no cars.
With minimal track experience in other cars, all I can say is that the F-type S is great fun.
Looks like there's no rotors can that be shipped to me on time. I will track Friday with the current rotors and brakes ( hopefully it goes okay lol), i saw my mechanic on Sunday and he said the rotors needs replacing, i asked him if I can make it for 1 more track day run before changing...he just said" be careful good luck". LOL
So I will place an order now for the brembo rotors
Can you guys advise which Porterfield R4 or RS4 brakes I should get? What's good for street driving and occasional track runs
will they all fit any rotor size or it is rotor specific?
I have the whole front end of my cars wrapped and have had no issues on track the last five years. I track about 6-10 days a year. No issues with windshields. If you want extra protection for the paint, you can wrap the front in Track Armour, which isn't pretty but it works.
Can you get a rock chip or a cracked windshield on the track? Sure. The only personal connection I have to a cracked windshield involving a track was my neighbor, who has tracked for 30+ years and he got a rock chip in his Ferrari F430.....on his way from our hotel to the track (CMP).
I mostly track at places that don't have gravel, though. If the track has gravel pits, that would increase your likelihood of an issue. VIR, CMP, and Watkins Glen don't have gravel run offs.
Yes same ! I have my car PPF'd so i don't worry about rocks or paint chips. just the windshield at this point.
06-19-2022 | 11:22 PM
Brake rotor / pads upgrade
