Almost forgot, I put polk tweeters in the doors, ( ) in a new location on the doors and also a pair on the grille plates of the subs in the rear. This adds enough of the high end to spread higher frequencies to the rear seat and gives better sound imaging from front to rear. Since the car interior is so small, didn't need to add midranges in the rear, I didn't find that much of a difference when midranges were back there.

 

For my XJL I replaced the head unit with an Android HU. They make Android HUs for F-Types also, but for some reason, they cost about double what the ones they make for the XJ or Landrover cost. These head units retain the OEM interface(for climate control, valet, etc.). This is accomplished by removing circuit boards from the OEM unit and installing it into the Android HU. That might sound daunting, but it is much easier than it sounds. In fact, it was much easier than upgrades where I have replaced complete system. Once installed, any app you would use on your phone, you can install on the head unit instead.

I also, added an AudioControl LCi7, two amplifiers, and a subwoofer. The LCi7 is a powered line output converter. It is used, so you can take the outputs from the OEM amp and feed it to aftermarket amplifier(s). I am not sure about the F-type, but with the XJ, this was also an easy upgrade because the battery and OEM amplifier are easily accessible in the trunk.

 

Where did you grab the signal from for your sub amp - line level or speaker level? Is everything else still running off the factory amp/DSP? From what I understand the "subs" behind the seats aren't in sealed enclosures. I'll either replace the drivers with something decent and seal them or eliminate them and go with a single 10" in a custom enclosure in the trunk.

 

I tapped into the sub behind the seat and used a lc2. The subs behind the seat I didn’t mess with I just cut them down to zero. All the factory amps speakers I left un touched. I got a sundown x8 in a ported box made for the car for sale if your interested. Looking to get $375 shipped within reason to N.C. It sounds awesome and there’s a wrapped board to keep it from moving

 

Thanks - so you took the speaker level signal from the factory sub and used an Lc2i to feed it to your new amp. The factory subs are dual voice coil so I assume they are running stereo but don't know for sure. I guess they could be 4 channels of mono. Did you feed a left and right to the Lc2i?

I generally prefer small sealed enclosures - pretty happy with an IDQ10v3 in my other car. That x8 is a little monster though.

 

I would never take the speaker outs from one amp to feed into another amp because you're adding additional signal noise AND distortion from the first amp. Most stock amps are VERY noisy. Always use the pre-outs from a head unit. Most head units have front and rear RCA outs and a Sub out and the head unit will have all the controls (fade, balance, sub level, EQ and sub level cutoff freq)

 

I generally agree but that's rarely possible these days with factory infotainment systems, especially higher option systems. Most often everything is integrated into a sort of central system processor that does DSP and such. If you are lucky it sends a line-level signal to a separate amplifier. back 10 years ago that was common. Now it's more likely that the amp is integrated or the audio signal is sent via can-bus, Ethernet, fiber optic, or some other data transfer pathway where you can't just intercept it and feed directly to your aftermarket amp.Hence the point of various processing products to help take speaker-level signals, clean them up, sometimes do some DSP, and provide a line-level signal output - Audio Control, Mosconi, and Zapco have several, Audison bit One is also good.

 

I generally completely remove the OEM stereo system, but not possible with the Jags, unless you want to lose some of your OEM functions. There are no preouts to use from the head unit, because it is a fiber optic output from HU to OEM amp. They make no aftermarket fiber optic amps. So that only leaves tapping off the speaker outputs from the OEM amp to attach aftermarket amps. Best you can do is use one of the high quality line output converters from AudioControl, etc.

 

I have to disagree. I lost no functionality of OEM functions and gained an awesome system. I removed the head and amp from the car which were both junk, replaced all speakers which were junk and replaced them with SUPER clean systems. Just look for what you want and then get it. Pioneer head unit ( one of the best tuners in the world and super clean preamps), which has CLEAN 4v outputs and steering wheel control inputs and a great EQ with front, rear and sub outputs, plus bluetooth phone and satellite radio. Even plays FLAC.

For someone who wants a "concert" while they drive, what else could they possibly want? Every app on the planet and access to all the internet has to offer? For me, no thanks. If I want all that, I can do it from several devices at home or even on my cell which is with me, why duplicate every conceivable 'whistle and bell' and lose what's really important to me: A quality sound system. Plus, I want to get lost in the moment; the drive, the music and the company.

I don't mind heads that don't have 1995 electronics, they're continually upgrading them every year. If I want to WOW someone, I do it with amazing sound and a clean cockpit, not a bunch of electronics strewn everywhere that when played leave me wanting more. Just my opinion; quality over quantity.

 

F-Types have rather more OEM functions than an XK8 though.

 

Your 20+ year old car had no other functionality. FFS, it barely had more than an AM/FM radio...maybe a sweet CD changer.

 

Good grief, no - cassette player in XK8s!

 

Based on your info, you have an older XK8. Those older head units don't have any functions to lose. The F-Type, my XJL, and the XF have climate control functions, valet function, Navigation, as well as the massage controls(for those that have that option). Once I installed my Android head unit, I stopped using the OEM navigation and installed Waze on the HU. However, I still need the climate control and the valet function. That is why I bought a specialized Android HU(rather than a universal one like I normally do), that requires taking two mother boards from the OEM HU and installing it into the Android HU, so that OEM functions are maintained. Controlling the heated or cooled seats, syncing or not syncing the driver and passenger side climate control, is done at the OEM screen. Maybe being able to control your climate isn't important to you, but it is to me, and many other people. It is also important that I am able to put my car into valet mode when I leave it with a valet. That is done by pressing the valet button at the OEM screen, and then entering a 4 digit pin to enter valet mode. To take it out of valet, you enter that 4 digit pin again. I am not sure about the F-Type, but on the XJL and the XF, there is no key lock for the glove box; it can only be locked using valet mode. So even if you have the key with you, and just want to secure something in your glove box, you need the OEM screen.

I don't know what kind of electronics strewn everywhere you are talking about. I have a Lc7i line output converter, two amps, and a subwoofer. All in the trunk, located next to the OEM amp(versus "strewn everywhere").

 

Somewhere in this thread was the mention of tablets and I've seen some pretty ridiculous systems, it doesn't mean YOURS is.
Funny how when you write "I disagree" the replies flood in. If anyone knows how amplification works, they know it's not linear, it's logarithmic and if a person is going to design a CLEAN system, never take an amplified output from one device and put it into an "IN" in the next step of the system, the magnitude of the signal to noise ratios and inherent distortion levels are through the roof...that is not my opinion, it's physics.

The point was if you desire great sound, then don't settle for something less just so you can have the next shiny button. If a 'one size fits all' device doesn't have what you want, then separate them.

 

The replies that "flooded in" merely pointed out that the OEM functions you haven't lost don't apply to the F-Type which has far more functions than an XK8. We all know about the physics of audio quality, which had nothing to do with those replies. You haven't actually addressed the OEM functions we'll lose by following your advice.

 

I'd rather have mediocre audio than lose half the functionality. Mine remains factory for that reason.

 

Depending on how much you are willing to spend, you can get better sound than stock, and still maintain the OEM functions. AudioControl makes some good products. Specifically relevant to this topic, they have some Line Output Converters(LOC), specifically designed for upgrading factory stereo systems. Their powered line output converters are better than cheap passive LOCs, and have features other than just the standard LOC function. After hooking up the LOC you can add amp(s), add speakers, add sub(s), etc. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...ystem-upgrade/

For my system, I got the factory amp going into an Lc7i, and then out to amps. I swapped out the midrange and tweeters with better ones, and I run them off of a Kenwood amp. Then I added a 10 inch sub, and run that off a another amp. Sound is MUCH better than factory.
I would say, including my amp install kit, RCA cables, etc., I probably spent no more than $1100.

You can even change the head unit and maintain OEM functions, but you would need to be willing to spend more than what a Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, etc. would probably cost. It will cost $1200 and up.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...archweb201603_

Many different vendors are selling similar head units at different prices. Whatever you do, avoid any model that only has 1GB of RAM. They are out there, and they are selling them for as much (or more) than identical units equipped with 4GB of RAM. For any unit running an OS version newer than Android 4.0, you want to have a minimum of 2GB of RAM. Otherwise it will be very sluggish. Especially when running two apps at once (i.e. listening to Spotify while navigating with Waze).

I did a report on the other forum about my head unit install: https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=116958

 

For me personally, stereo is just not that important. I like music well enough, but not to that point. My money is better spent on performance upgrades and athstetics. Only after there's nothing left, then I'd consider stereo. But I understand. Just ask my wife about our home entertainment.

 

Go back to his statement (you know, the guy who started this thread who doesn't own the car yet, but wanted advice on addressing the audio): I'm a car guy, but also a car audio guy.
Next he said: I don't expect everyone to hold car audio to the same standards I do.
And then further: The cabin may not be a concert hall, but then again why can't it be as good as possible, and not just good enough?

Like I said in my last post, keep the systems separated and go for a quality sound system. I got mine to sound like a concert hall (with a lot of time, hard work and creative design) just sharing the info, which is what this forum is for. Clean power, crossovers, quality speaker components, but speaker orientation really kicked it to the next level.
Good luck VIgroMan69 on your purchase and let us know about the sound system you created.

 

Go back to his statement where he says he's looking at an F Type and not an XK8 and doesn't want to lose functionality. Does your solution offer that on an F Type? If so, I may be interested as well. Maybe.