Well it happened 2 months into ownership. I just got back from a 2 hour drive and went to my public storage to drop something off. Came back to my car and it wont start!

the lights come on, the AC and radio turn on so its not the battery but the engine wont turn.

All 3 jag dealer service centers are closed today. So frustrating!!!!

Thanks Jag, I've never had a problem with BMW, Audi's in the past. I thought the Ftype had decent build quality

 

Did you try locking and unlocking the car? I have had to do that a couple of times to get the car to recognize the key. I would also try the spare key if you have one.

 

yeah I locked, unlocked a few times. I didnt try the second key, but I doubt its a key problem. The car was unlocking fine and battery looked fine. No warnings on the dash (other than IGNITION IS ON), just the engine wouldnt crank. Weird. I'm going to have to leave the car at the public storage garage, thank god they lock that garage overnight! Gonna have to miss work tomorrow to get the car towed back to the dealer. Jaguar Roadside assistance was of no help.

Ridiculous.

 

Based on your description, it sounds like an issue with one of the 2 interlock switches that prevent the starter from working. Try cycling the brake pedal a few times and jiggling the gear shift lever a few times. I know..crude, but I kept my $1700 instrument cluster on the MINI working for 2 or 3 years by wacking it a couple times a month. If it works, at least you'll know what the problem is.

 

Locking and unlocking it would have reset the immobilizer. After trying that, to quote the manual,

"If the engine persistently fails to start:

1. With a valid smart key inside the vehicle:
a) on automatic transmission vehicles, make sure the brake pedal is NOT pressed;
b) on Manual transmission vehicles, make sure the clutch pedal is NOT pressed.

2. Make sure that Park or Neutral is selected.

3. Press and hold the Start/Stop button until the warning lamps illuminate.

4. Slowly press the accelerator pedal fully and hold it in the fully pressed position.

5. Press and release the Start/Stop button. The engine will begin to crank.

6. Release the accelerator pedal when the engine starts."

 

I found the manual and read that and tried that process too. Didn't work. Gonna call the dealer tomorrow morning and see if they can fix it or need to tow it.

 

I just realized, while driving back today there was a point where the eco stop got engaged at a traffic light and the car instead of starting up when I took my foot off the brake, the engine stopped instead and it went into neutral. i thought that was odd and had to re-engage the car into drive to get it to move.

 

Time to disconnect the battery and let everything reboot again.

 

Turns out it was a low battery. The tech came out and took a couple of minute to jump what seemed like 2 pairs of cables in the battery in the trunk and 1 jump to a battery under the hood.

He said he's seen this many times with F-Types which apparently need a really strong battery to crank the engine. Went to the dealer and dropped it off.

The one good thing that came out of this was the dealer gave me a V8 Convertible loaner which on days like today in Seattle are fun.

 

Sounds about right. I guess You just sold me on getting a new battery. I have had some odd codes but never a problem as bad as yours. Good to know.

 

interesting, on the low battery cause. So did you not drive the car for a while? Did you leave the key near the car for extended period of time? Any other likely reasons the battery would drain?

 

No idea, I don't drive it everyday but its driven almost every weekend I've owned it. I actually came back from a 2-3 hour drive when it wouldn't start up again. Not sure why the battery would drain. There were also no warnings on the dash that the battery was dead or dying.
Its a pain in the *** to jump it as well, the tech needed 3 different battery stations to jump the car! 2 in the back and 1 in the front.

Did someone mention battery changes in the 2016's in another thread? Do they come with smaller batteries now?

 

Batteries can be defective just like any other part, even if they are relatively new. It sounds to me like you just had a bad one.

All lead acid batteries, including AGMs, will last longer and are less likely to fail if they stay nearly topped off. That's why battery maintainers are a good preventative maintenance measure for cars that aren't driven nearly every day. You can get away without them, but you'll be replacing batteries much less often if you hook one up regularly when the car is sitting.

The only battery change in 2016 was elimination of the extra battery for the start-stop system. 14-15 cars have two batteries, and 16s only have one.

 

I found the bolded part most disconcerting. What specifically did they say? I would have thought they'd send a truck and, if unable to get the car started, would have towed it back to dealer.

 

Not unique to English cars. After a year old, my 2012 Boss 302 battery was dead after sitting for a week. Used a Battery Tender to hold the charge, but when left off, the battery went dead. The Ford dealer had it for a week and said no problem could be found. The problem persisted, and after a second visit, surprise, it had a bad battery. New battery, no more problem. Dah.

 

Hopefully the dealer will replace the battery and not just charge it. I'll look into a bettery tender for a trickle charge since I dont drive this car every day.

 

It was probably just a bad phone agent. She asked if the parking garage I was in could hold my car overnight so that they could get it towed the next day because all the dealer service centers in the Seattle area were closed at that time (4pm on Sunday). Knowing what I know now, I would have called back and spoken to someone else to send a tech to jump start the car rather than a flat bed truck. That way I wouldnt have had to leave the car there overnight and miss work the next get waiting to get it jumped.

 

Get yourself a CTEK. Just plug it in and forget about it, result.... no more electrical gremlins.

 

I know this has been discussed before but what's the best model to get...?

 

The Battery Tender Plus does exactly the same thing as the CTEK and is the #1 seller in the US. It's also less expensive (under $50 everywhere).

I have 3 of them, some of which are 10 years old and working perfectly. One BT Plus keeps 3 wired togther, heavy-duty chassis batteries on my diesel motorcoach topped off.