Before bringing to the mechanic I wanted to see if anyone could have an idea of what happened. So a bunch of red flags came up that I should have tackled before driving the car hard so this is definitely my fault but I didn't think it would cause this.
Had a check up a like 8 months back and car terminals were corroded and reported to fail load test.

Then the following happened in this order:
1. Muffler delete done.
2. Hit a pot hole and started getting a orange check engine light that came up when car was pushed hard.
3. Checked with OBD2 and it was a P0341 Camshaft sensor position bank A. This light would go away after a day or two usually but would still show error code in OBD2.
4. Noticed that my RPM from 2800 - 3500 starts fluctuating which kinda jerked the car a bit during 4th - 6th gear in those RPM ranges.
5. About 2 months go by. The other night I drove the car a little fast going up to 6k-8k RPM and noticed that the RPMS dropped when my foot was off accelerator. It kept dipping to like 2k-3k RPM after my foot was off from 5k - 7k RPM. My RPMs were acting normal when downshifting but shortly after I got off the highway and to a stop light the car died on me and a red battery light came up on the dash.
6. Tried to jump the battery but it did not work. Electronics work like the door handles, mirror, gauge, dashboard screen, infotainment screen, center vent, electronics that's plugged in like my radar detector, etc.

Tow guy said could be alternator or serpentine belt which I'm unsure. I know at the very least the battery was a problem and I definitely should have replaced it but was lazy and put it off. Anyone know if this could be something worse given some of the context? No odd sounds that I can recall before it died.

Any insight welcome. Thanks.

 

I would start with cleaning the battery terminals and then throwing a charger on it for a few days. Charge the car with the doors locked. Make sure the red emergency triangle on the dash goes out while charging.

If the battery will not charge up to full replace it. If new battery is installed charge it until full. They don't always come fully charged. After that recheck for issues.

 

Assuming the car is in a garage or safe location, not sure I would risk locking the doors, given possibility of them staying locked.

 

well you can unlock the car with the physical key so I'm not too worried about that.

 

@Ojeii, use a voltmeter to check the available battery voltage across the terminals with the ignition in the OFF position. There should be a minimum of 12.6 volts available, if not, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. If the battery voltage is still less than 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect and should be replaced.

Always begin any electrical diagnosis with a fully charged battery. If the vehicle isn't driven for long periods, use a battery maintainer to keep the voltage at the correct level and prolong the life of the battery.

 

If the MIL is on, use a smart phone with the Torque app to see what pending or permanent DTCs are stored. Post them here for help with making a diagnosis.

DO NOT operate the vehicle under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is the result.

 

I'd be worried about driving the car at 7-8k rpm seeing as the rev limiter is at 6.8k i think

 

So the battery in the trunk is the problem and I've been watching videos and it seems like everyone is saying to plug the battery charger to the front battery positive and ground which I did after cleaning some of the corrosion on my negative battery terminal.

I bought this battery charger NOCO GENIUS1 https://a.co/d/2dZLCbg and plugged in the wall outlet then plugged in the positive first then ground at the front battery on the passenger side. The battery charger has a 12V AGM mode which I switched to. I'm not sure I'm doing this right.

Is this right what I did? When I reconnected the battery in the trunk my lights and stuff came back on (which is nothing new). I hear clicking near the battery where the +/- are plugged. Am I supposed to maybe use some other setting on the battery charger? I'm going to leave it plugged in on the 12V AGM setting.

 

So these are what I received from my OBD2 scanner. Everything is new except the P0341 which is initially what my check engine light was for.

 

You selected the correct mode to charge the battery. I would take all those codes with a grain of salt until the battery is fully charged. They may all disappear when the charge reaches full. It may take several days for the battery to fully charge.

 

I was planning on taking those codes with a grain of salt until the battery charged as well. I am wondering with the 1A, 12V AGM charging mode how long I should wait to try to start it up. I got a volt meter as the user above has mentioned to see the charge.

I wanted to see if I can start the car today. I assume that If it was a battery charge issue that if I charged it correctly it would start but I shouldn't actually drive it until fully charged. Is this a correct assumption or do I need to fully charge it first before attempting to start it?

Thank you all for the replies as well, I appreciate the guidance in this as I've never really worked on cars before but try to understand them as best as I can.

 

Best to fully charge before doing anything, then you know you're starting from a good baseline.

 

The front battery is fully charged but when I checked my trunk battery it was not charged at all. I am charging it now and it is at 80% so will try turning the car on in the morning when it's at 100%.

Something I noticed while setting up the charging at the front was there is this ticking sound near the trunk close to the battery. It goes off every few seconds and ticks 4 times in a row. Anyone know what this is and what it means?

 

Hmmmm….there is no “front” battery…there is only one main battery, and that is in the trunk. In the front, under the hood/bonnet, there are auxiliary positive and negative posts, but for the most part, charging should always be done at the battery monitoring block - the black box near the battery. Remove the black cover. Connect the red positive lead from the charger to any point on the bar under the black cover; connect the black negative lead to a convenient stud on the trunk floor. Do not connect the charger directly to the battery!

Low battery charge is responsible for 90% of complaints!

 

There is indeed a second front battery near the passenger headlight. It's the battery for the electronic components. It has a positive rod and ground stud near it. I read to jump the car or charge the battery you plug it to the front battery. I fully charged it but that didn't seem to do anything so I am now charging the back.

Instead of connecting to ground I'm connecting both positive and negative yo the battery itself and it is charging the battery. I'm not sure if I have to ground it or if it's just a suggestion.

 

That is not a battery, there is no "front" battery under the hood.
The positive rod and the negative stud under the hood are for jump starting and/or battery charging and nothing else.
The positive rod is connected to the main battery in the trunk/boot and the negative stud is just an earth/ground.
Yes you can connect a charger/tender/maintainer directly to the battery positive and negative but that is not the advisable or correct method, instead you should connect to the battery positive (either directly or via the bus bar) and to an earth/ground point in the trunk, otherwise you are bypassing the BMS (Battery Monitoring System) module which can cause problems. The BMS module is attached to the negative battery terminal.

 

Ah I see, my mistake. It had a battery icon and I read the manual and thought it stated it was a battery. My concept of earth/ground is pretty limited. I understand that I'm supposed to use some type of metal on the frame to ground it I think. Is there any specific stud in the trunk I can use so I don't create new problems? I believe I read somewhere that there is one back there but I couldn't see one.

 

Here is the front hookup pictured

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...1/#post1472637

Here is the rear hookup. It isn't a stud (tho' there ARE studs back there). This pictures the newer single-battery cars.

https://howtune.com/articles/548-ins...-jaguar-f-type

 

So I left it charging overnight. Last I checked last night it was at 80%. I came back to the battery charger saying it is full and it's off and not charging anymore. I hopped in the car and this time it said the car was not in park so I started it which made it recognize the car is indeed in park but I got a new message that the battery is low and to start the car. Car wouldn't start and is doing what it has been doing. I should have included a video so people can identify if it's a starter/alternator issue but I've attached it.

So I went back and plugged it back into the battery and it showed it was at 40%. I did this before reading where the ground stud is in the trunk. Maybe I should plug into the ground but I'm starting to think that battery isn't able to hold a charge and I need a new one.

Hopefully this video can help identify if my starter/alternator is bad and needs to be replaced as well.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m47...usp=share_link

Please let me know if you guys are having trouble viewing the video.

 

All good advice! The U codes are really pointing to voltage problems. So charge your battery but from what you wrote I would be replacing it.
Also just a small suggestion?
ALWAYS hook up the car BEFORE plugging in the wall socket! This is just a good work practice with anything. You don't want sparks/arcing around the battery. Yes it will also arc when plugged into the wall outlet a bit but that is isolated from the car and is of no danger.

I don't think you have anything wrong just a bad battery. Although I have never seen a "engine coolant blower" code before and have no idea what they are talking about??

Report back when you get it charged up.
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