+1 on a new battery.

 

Oh gotcha. My buddy told me to plug in the charger to the wall outlet first then to the dead battery like you would jumping a car from a live battery to the dead. Negative first then positive. But I will keep this noted. So I go ground/negative first then positive and then plug into the wall?

 

Also, for the new battery, do I charge it up first unplugged or just go ahead and hook up the terminals then charge it while it's in the car? I know as good practice you should always charge a new battery first. I also made a separate post about which battery to get and OzXFR confirmed the battery I chose which should be fine and I trust to be a good option but always open to more opinions as well.

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...cca/319459_0_0

Thanks all for the suggestions and help, I really appreciate this community and willingness to help.

 

Charge it out of the car, first.

 

Your battery is dying. You need a new battery, a fully charged new battery. You will find that there is nothing wrong with your starter or alternator.

 

You may have a dead battery but also because you connected straight to the battery you have bypassed the battery management system which could also cause issues. Try connecting and recharging the battery by the correct way as previously mentioned. Unless your battery charger is also faulty or too basic/cheap it makes no sense why it would say you have fully charged battery withou any errors when it is dead or dying

 

It is a pretty basic battery charger that I got since this was an unexpected outcome of the car.

At this point I am thinking it is a problematic battery because it shouldn't have lost its charge overnight anyways. After unplugging the battery from 100% and plugging it back in it did show it was back down to 40%.
I will charge the battery next time using the ground like I'm supposed to though. Is there any particularly proper way I need to install the new battery I will be getting so the BMS works or do I just install it normally; positive then negative and that's it?

 

And if you disconnect the battery make sure you don't shut the trunk lid! Piece of carpet over the latch will prevent it accidentally closing.

 

Just install the battery as you would in any other car, and yes positive cable first then negative, no special procedure to follow.
The only things you will lose are the Trip A and Trip B readings, the one-touch up for the windows, and the power hatch (if you have it) the first time. Instructions in your Owner Manual for the one-touch windows reset and with the power hatch just pull it down manually the first time then it will be good to go after that.
If the battery is disconnected for a long time you may lose the clock/time as well but easily reset.

 

So because of the corroded negative terminal I had to jerk it out of the car to get a better grip on it to remove it and I didn't realize there's this black pin connected to the terminal. I've attached it but basically one of the 2 pins broke off.. I guess I have to buy a new negative terminal but not sure where I can buy one to get it shipped quickly. Anyone got suggestions? Included the picture of the piece that broke off. Sad sad time, after I spent 40 minutes trying to pry off the negative terminal just for this piece to break. 🤦🏻

 

Can't see any pic here.
Also not aware of any black pin connected to the negative terminal.
Maybe you are talking about the BMS module which is a small "black box" attached to the end of negative battery lead?
If so it shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement.

 

Sorry about that, it showed on my phone that it uploaded.

 

I couldn't just find the pin itself, it was connected and attached directly on the negative terminal. I bought a replacement on eBay for $35 which includes the ground rod too because I just want to get this over with but a heads up for anyone in the future to be careful with this pin because there's only 2 small medal pins holding that rod.

 

Yep, that has snapped off the side of the BMS module so you will need to find/buy a new module.
I don't know if the new module will need to be programmed by a JLR dealership but I suspect it will.
Also none showing on Fleabay so I suspect your only option is to buy from a JLR dealership = big money and probably big wait, but give them a call to check.
I don't know if the car will drive at all or at least OK without the BMS module connected but I suspect it will but even if it does drive OK (enough to get it into a dealership) you would need to keep an eye on the battery condition and charge level.
Good luck!

 

Man I'd really hate to have to get this re-programmed. My local dealership charges $250/hr which is ridiculous. The one I bought on eBay has the BMS module in tact and it just clips back onto the slot. The black piece I'm holding can slide off. That piece is actually supposed to be attached to the terminal itself but it broke off.

Ugh, this really sucks. A simple battery replacement turns into a visit to the dealership, of course. I wonder if they would work with my piece I bought myself or force me to use one they buy themselves from factory. This one on eBay i'm purchasing is OEM.

 

With any luck the replacement part will work perfectly without needing any programming by a JLR dealership.
Just watch for error messages, low battery warnings etc and keep an eye on the battery charge level.
You have got a decent battery tender/maintainer I hope?

 

Listen to OzXFR! Do the simple things first. You can always go to the dealer if the BMS needs programming and it "might".
Regardless of all that has been posted before I have NEVER worried about or reset the BMS. I have a full operating SDD but I simply have not needed it?

I have a 2014 XJR with the factory battery still! Yes it's over 9 years old at this point and I am waiting for it to fail as it's done it's duty for sure! The BMS will instigate a automatic calibration on it's own from time to time BUT people have pointed out that Jaguar does claim you need to reset the BMS with SDD. I have disconnected my battery many times for mods with no issues other than what was posted above. Some memory stuff is lost.

Post back if you can with what you find out as that will help others.
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Alright guys,

Bad news and good news maybe.

So good news about the BMS. I got the negative terminal and BMS port replacement in. I spoke to a Jaguar Foreman/Tech at a dealership and asked about the BMS clip and he said once I get the replacement in it is perfectly safe to drive. The BMS module doesn't need to be re-calibrated. The clip itself just broke so all I had to do was get the replacement negative terminal and plug it back in. He did say that upon a new battery install I would still need to something reset and I should go to the dealership to get it done which is quick and likely would accommodate which is nice.

So I replaced the negative terminal end with the BMS clip and re-screwed in the ground cable to the negative terminal and plugged the BMS back into the negative terminal. Checked and charged the battery to 100% it is good, voltages are good, nothing wrong with the battery. Clamped on the positive first then clamped in the negative and nothing has changed. My electronics work fine, lights, mirrors, radio, gauges, etc, but I still have a battery light and the car won't start and sounds the same when I try to start it as the video I linked to above.

So now the battery problem is no longer seemingly the problem, could it be my starter or alternator? I really hope not..

 

Now is the time to hookup a code reader and see what codes you get. Now that the battery is good they will be legit codes that will help diagnose the problem.

 

Ok,

I will reinstall the battery a second time step by step in case I missed something. I am adding anti-corrosion felt pads so I can try to prevent future events of corrosion and then will install everything back and update with the more accurate codes.