So I am a little confused. I went back to plug back in my battery and tried to start my car like 4 times and once I went back to check the charge the SOC was showing 44%. Is it because I was trying to start the car and it doesn't have a way to charge itself? Either way, that had me worried and concerned but maybe it just makes sense that the charge would drop like that. I checked the codes and attached my OBD readings. There was this weird black wire with a red tip going 90 degrees that was wedged near the positive on the side of the battery between the bottle. It was plugged into the old battery too so I plugged it back in as well, not sure what it does.

Will leave car battery plugged in. I also noticed my negative terminal is a little loose for some reason so I will try and buy some spacers.

 

What do you mean —-> “ I also noticed my negative terminal is a little loose for some reason so I will try and buy some spacers.”

there should be no looseness as you will be creating a possible arc every time you go over a bump and things move . Every electrical connect point should be good and tight obviously

 

This whole thread is starting to feel odd.
If the OP does not understand how to connect his battery, pethaps he should give up and pay JLR to fix it.

 

Again you need a better scanner to see your problems? Might be some codes down a bit deeper in the car?
I would remove the battery from the car and charge it on the bench to 100% and try again.

Do follow the advice above because a loose terminal MUST be fixed BEFORE you proceed!
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I wonder if he just means the clamp is loose (doesn't tighten fully), not the actual terminal.

 

If that's the case, a set of battery terminal shims would fix it. Our local auto parts store carries them.



I know that on Hondas, the terminals on replacement batteries often benefit from being shimmed.

 

Yes.. The clamp is loose. Obviously if the terminal itself wasn't on securely at all then my electronics would not be working. I wouldn't leave it connected if it was loose or try and start the engine.

I mentioned above that some spacers should fix this issue. My previous terminal didn't have this problem but it was rusted and corroded so I assume that helped with the tightness a little but it is odd this replacement can't clamp on completely.

 

Exact one I bought, hopefully they fit properly.

 

Don't worry. If you are unsure, twist the terminal without loosening. You should not be able to move it.



I admit that I've often made my own shims by cutting up some strips of aluminum beer can material. The trick there is to make the can material 2 thicknesses, but reach half-way around the terminal. Theory is, that the contact surface of the original clamp provides the best connection.

And, if you cut it wrong, you can have another beer, and try again.



Once complete, you then treat yourself to a celebratory beer!

 

Yes, but even with the clamp I am met with the same issues. The battery seemingly wasn't the issue. I called a mechanic shop and was told it could be my timing belt or timing chain. My starter/alternator could be a possibility but they were leaning on the timing belt or chain. The belt in the front does not turn or crank which lead them to believe that because the engine is not turning on at all.

Anyone's thoughts on this? He also quoted $130/hr and at least $1500 in repairs. Local Indy shop in Chicago called European Autohaus in case anyone has had experience there.

 

I guess its time to move on from a suspect battery or connections. But, just to confirm, the terminal clamps are now secure?


The F engines use timing chains. Not likely that they are broke...stretched from poor lubrication, maybe.

If the crankshaft bolt is turned manually (shudder to think what needs to be removed to access this) the pulleys should turn. If you have a competent higher end OBD tool you could see if the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are working.

If the ECU doesn't sense engine movement, it will inhibit fuel delivery. (safety issue)

 

Yeah, unfortunately I only have a normal OBD sensor and it does throw up code P0341 which has been present on and off for about 2 months. P0341 is Camshaft sensor position 1 Bank A. At this point I'm afraid there is nothing much I can do other than self diagnosis which I'm not confident enough to do so I will hand it off to the mechanic. I gave another call and a different tech says the engine may have to be rebuilt which scared me quite a bit. What originally seemed like a $2000 job now turned into a $6000+/- job.. Hopefully it's neither of these problems but I will update once the vehicle is repaired and they come back to me with the diagnosis.

 

So I've brought it into a indy shop and he's checked the engine. It doesn't crank and the engine is seized up. He's looking into it more but noticed the oil was very low and said I've been driving it for a while really low and it likely did a lot of damage to the engine.

He's leaning on an engine replacement over a rebuild because it may cost less money and time to replace it since several parts could have been messed up in the process and it would take too much time figuring out what went wrong and replacing every little piece as it breaks I guess.

The 2015 F-Type R Engine around 36k mileage is around $8k - $12k I think.. This is such a huge repair estimate with labor included than the original thread. Feels unreal that I've had this car for such a short amount of time (About 10 months) and the engine ended up like this at 36,000 miles. I feel like throwing up honestly.

What are your guys thoughts on this? Obviously you guys can't see the engine or anything but I find it so hard to believe this car developed this many problems. Maybe I really needed an oil change but my light never came up to tell me (Not that I rely on that to change it, I did check the digital oil gauge a few months back and it said it was fine). Maybe I needed to provide some other maintenance for it too but I got a PPI done for it and not much was really needed other than a battery change.