I do not want to be "that guy" that definitively has all the answers, but I did this conversion in the winter of 2017. It was fun. The rotors are larger than 380 (and fatter, so you need the Brembo CCM calipers. The storm wheels were my choice. I bought them new from JAG and at the time were surprisingly reasonable. MY dealer discounted them to 450.00 each. The other forged wheel that is more popular on the factory installed CCM cars, I cannot recall the name, was twice the cost. The storm by dumb luck is also the wheel they used on the project 7. Somewhere I have a photo of a steel rotor on top of the CCM rotors, but I cannot locate it at the time. The rotors are stupid light. I believe I weighed them at 15lbs each. Seems like diameter was 390 or 398(have since sold the car.)

Good new is now there are more pads and bits out their so one might be able to do it less than I did which was still cheap. With dust shields and many odds and ends, and doing the work myself, I spent about 8k.

Back to the wheels, the Storms have a very well designed off set, they bulge out at the hub to clear the calipers which are ginormous, but the wheel bellows inward to keep the rubber under the arches which was very important to me.

I last year did a conversion on a Jag XE-S to F-pace SVR front rotors and calipers(non-CCM), that was a ton more work, but the dang car will stop, and I mean fast.

 

Hi all. I've just had the CCBs retrofitted on my F-Type SVR. The job was done by an independent old-school Jag specialist because the dealers wouldn't touch it.

I drove it straight home from the retrofit because I wanted the dealer to check over the work and update the ABS module before I did any serious driving. There's also the issue of the two left-over brake pad wear sensors because regular steel-braked cars aren't equipped for sensors on all four corners like CCB-fitted cars are.

It's in with the dealer today and they've told me they can't do anything about the extra sensors because the car wasn't factory-optioned with CCBs and not originally wired for them. They said the same about updating/changing out the ABS module. They said they could look further into it but it would be major, major work to rewire the car (if even possible), and as it stands, a software update isn't necessary.

How did you guys end up solving this? Or did you even need to? I'm concerned that the car still thinks it has steel brakes. Wouldn't this affect ABS and torque vectoring, or lead to potential damage to the rotors, particularly with two corners lacking sensors?

Appreciate any input. Cheers!

BTW Thanks to this thread I also asked them to make sure the other mechanic used the correct brake fluid as instructed, and he apparently hadn't. So they've flushed the whole system and replaced with the correct fluid, which I'm happy about, but charged me AUD $750 for the 2 litres of fluid alone, which I'm decidedly less happy about.

 

Wear sensors are there for people who don’t ever check their brakes for wear AKA an “idiot light”. There may be a different ABS profile in the CCF which may be able to be adjusted via SDD or Pathfinder. I reckon most don’t bother with this though.

 

I know this is an old thread, but want to clear up something that pops up over and over again on forums regarding brake upgrades.

When brakes are applied, there are two interfaces involved in slowing a car: one between the brake pads and rotors, and the other between the tire and the road. Under maximum braking, the brakes are applied until the tires start to slip on the road, then released, and the process repeated quickly, over and over. Note that the only interface that's slowing the car as a whole is the rubber/road interface. Changing the brakes does not change the above; a car having swapped to CCB will not stop any faster than a steel setup!

The advantage of CCB is being able to stop hard over and over, but in a one-time stopping event (with time to cool), the stopping distance will be no better than steel brakes, because what is slowing the car as a whole is only the tires.

 

@kb58

I've given up on convincing people of this over the years. Just like conversations around "warped rotors".

 

There’s more to it than that. Not all steel discs are created equal, not all pads have identical friction material and not all calipers have the same hydraulic power and heat resistance.

Larger multi-piston fixed calipers typically associated with CCB packages have significantly greater heat resistance and hydraulic power than say a single piston floating caliper. Brake pad’s friction material also affect fade, heat, stopping power etc. As for carbon discs, as they’re very good at heat resistance and dissipation they also contribute to reduced fade from heat meaning more consistent braking. They also wear a lot slower than steel, lasting as long as 100k miles and they’ll never warp 😝. The major drawback besides cost though’s how delicate they are.

You’re correct about tire formulations and condition, as those greatly affect stopping distance.

 

People claim that switching to CCB shortens stopping distance. Yes it does - on the track. On the street, stopping distance in typical usage never heats the brakes enough to make them fade, so stopping distance is entirely dependent upon the tires. Anyone claiming a shorter stopping distance after converting to a CCB setup is either imagining things, or forgetting to say that they also switched to stickier tires.

I'm specifically talking about one-time stopping distance where the brakes don't have a chance to fade. What you're talking about is absolutely true - on-track.

 

You’ve a point but I’d assume, hopefully, the reason for making such a massive investment would be for improved track performance, especially after making the statement we’re all referring to otherwise it’s just expensive bragging rights.

Anyway just wanted to clarify for others there’s a performance reason for their existence.

 

Carbons are just for show for the super rich. Standard brakes are more than enough power. I have SVR style rims made for the carbon brakes. When I discovered that normal people actually REMOVE their carbon brakes for the race track for fear of early wear; I’m glad I didn’t order carbon brakes. Plus the fact that I have the convertible!

 

I don't think upgrading the brakes to CCM would change the ABS or any other electronic aid?
Those work by monitoring what the car is doing dynamically and they don't know or care what brakes the car has. ABS just knows if we get tires sliding release the brakes and go into ABS mode. Same with stability control.

So better/upgraded equipment means these systems will be called into play at higher performance levels. But they still should work OK.
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Nice to know. Thanks for the replies!

 

Ummm, no…..

Carbon discs are actually used in professionally sanctioned competition racing. Besides decades of experience, I had the standard R brakes fitted and I can assure you they’d be done after one corner on the track. They’re fine for a weekend drive but they can’t hold up to intense use or heat. Upgrading to fixed multi piston calipers, race pads and racing discs transformed the braking performance night and day.

 

I have not been active on the forum for a couple of years but do follow this one a bit. I did the conversion a couple of years ago on my 2016 manual(detailed on this thread way back in the beginning.) The ABS and master cylinder are the same on CCM cars per Jag spec. Dealers do not want nor care to evaluate anything beyond maybe torque specs. The dealers only do what they can bill from a rate book. I was able to run all the sensors from the CCM conversion by ordering the CCM spec sensors specified in the Jag parts book/file. But as mentioned the sensors are a nanny device, I run them nevertheless as time gets in my way and I never tracked my car.

To repeat others, stopping distance does not change but I ran my car several times on hard West Virginia mountains a a fast clip. We would run 45 minutes to an hour at a time up and down and around. I found no brake fade and at each rest stop I was rewarded with zero brake dust. I mean hardly a detectable film by running my finger inside the rim. I always took caution when removing the wheel and did purchase a set of lug sleeves that Jag was supposed to supply with CCM cars. I forget but bought them on on Ebay or Amazon. Allows you to fit or pull the weeks several inches from the rotors. You can be a he-man (person-whatever) and take your chances, but I did not want to drop a wheel only to dink the rotors.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...brakes-135628/

 

I suspect that thread about removing the CCBs is being misunderstood. They "probably" are removing them just due to cost, not wanting to pay the insane high replacement cost later, and instead putting on "beater" steel discs for track events, along with good pads.

 

Hi,

Can you please provide me with the site where you bought these CCB's ???

Thank you,
Eddie S.

 

The most common place is eBay.

 

try this guy. he was my source. Well connected with stuff coming out of jag surplus. Mine were like new takes offs
Michael Birken
ukprestigeproducts@gmail.com

very honorable. one rotor arrived with minor chip, immediately shipped me a perfect replacement

Good guy
phone 0771-11988200