"Charging system fault"
#1
"Charging system fault"
I have an annoying problem with my 2016 F-Type. I just put a brand new alternator in it this weekend as the old one was absolutely covered in oil and not working anymore. Everything is hooked up properly. I'm getting proper voltage from the battery and the alternator... But my car still says "charging system fault" with the red triangle. Plus, I get 3 engine lights. Low voltage, and fuel injector monitor A and B. It has an interstate battery less than a year old. My battery seems to be holding charge fine and the alternator seems to be working properly. What is going on? Yes I reset everything, cleared codes, checked my ground, unplugged battery.. to no avail! Can anyone help
#3
On the short list - make sure the battery is FULLY charged. Given that you started with a bad alternator, it might have been down a bit, and that can be responsible for all sorts of error codes. Put it on a CTEK for a good long run and see if that helps. And, if that doesn't immediately clear things up, I'd pull the battery cable again to do a reset.
Something COULD have been fried in the course of events, but, given the mixture of codes you're seeing, that's not my first guess.
Something COULD have been fried in the course of events, but, given the mixture of codes you're seeing, that's not my first guess.
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WilliamD-RN (07-02-2023)
#4
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WilliamD-RN (07-02-2023)
#5
I'll make sure I have an AGM battery. I was not the one that put it in, but it has worked fine up to this point I have put thousands of miles on the battery I bought with it. I could not find any specific voltages for the car so thank you for letting me know about the 14.5
#6
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WilliamD-RN (07-03-2023)
#7
Yes oil leak is completely fixed. The alternator I bought was an indentical Denso to the one that was on the car before, it is just not branded by Jaguar because I didn't want to spend $1,000 lol
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#8
#9
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Quite often alternators don't match the vehicle's electrical system. Even that the unit is a Denso unit, there may be differences in the regulator unit that trigger the instrument cluster warning.
It's always best to remove the original alternator and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul the unit to avoid having the instrument cluster warning. If you still have the alternator that was removed from the vehicle, have it looked at by a competent automotive electrical specialist.
It's always best to remove the original alternator and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul the unit to avoid having the instrument cluster warning. If you still have the alternator that was removed from the vehicle, have it looked at by a competent automotive electrical specialist.
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WilliamD-RN (07-03-2023)
#10
Quite often alternators don't match the vehicle's electrical system. Even that the unit is a Denso unit, there may be differences in the regulator unit that trigger the instrument cluster warning.
It's always best to remove the original alternator and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul the unit to avoid having the instrument cluster warning. If you still have the alternator that was removed from the vehicle, have it looked at by a competent automotive electrical specialist.
It's always best to remove the original alternator and have a local automotive electrical specialist overhaul the unit to avoid having the instrument cluster warning. If you still have the alternator that was removed from the vehicle, have it looked at by a competent automotive electrical specialist.
#11
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#12
A few weeks later the car suddenly just cut off going down the highway. I checked under the hood, fiddled around a bit checking connections, but didn't really see the problem. When I got back in the car, it cranked up and ran fine. A couple of weeks later, same story. A week later, same story. I finally gave up and took it to the shop. They kept it a couple of days and gave up. "We started it up in the corner of the shop and it would run for hours without a problem." Of course, on the way home, it cut off again (and restarted, again). Finally, I was inspired to take out the new fuel pump and bench test it. It worked fine - except if you giggled the wires a bit. Bad internal connection. Meanwhile, BTW, the car ran fine in place with no fuel pump - as long as you weren't driving/hitting bumps in the road. One more trip to the parts store and I was back in business.
On a car that age, it's no surprise that something might break - and the one thing you "know" isn't the problem is the new part you just put in. Not.
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scm (07-03-2023)
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