I have gotten some damage on the chromed grille surrunding, and the black middle bar.

I have seen that they are not so expensive to get.

The question is, how hard are they to replace? Does the whole front need to come off?

 

Unfortunately, yes it does need to come off, but how hard is relative to your skill and experience with this sort of thing. I had my bumper bar repaired at dealer expense, and the body shop said it was about a 2 hour R&R job. It's relatively straightforward for someone who knows what they're doing.

 

When you get the new pieces, consider wrapping the surround in clear and the bumper in matte black. I had that done day one, and it appears to have avoided damage from the loose aggregate on the roads that are under construction around here.

 

It appears the grill surround is roughly $165 (maybe cheaper from your local dealer) and I was thinking about taking on the "no front beam bar" project with this being the key piece.

For future reference, here's the Jaguar Part no. T2R5053

Jaguar 14 15 F Type Front Bumper Grille Grille Surround T2R5053 | eBay

 

OK, Front off. Well that shouldn't be impossible. I do know my way around at least the common tools :-)

It would however be nice to then get hold of some kind of service manual. to get the order of work described.

I do agree with the need for protective wrapper. I however got mine used, with this not done. But definetly I will do it now to these pieces. I have thought of wrapping the mifddle bar, the lower splitter and the rear diffusor in some CF. But I'm not sure.

elude, You mention the "No front beam bar". Something I also considered. Like 'Project 7'. But is it possible. Is there nothing inside that center piece. The only visible thng is 2 PDC sensors.

 

The front grille is actually 2 pieces, one for above and one for below the bumper bar. Behind the grille is the aluminum chassis/front crush structure.

To eliminate the bar, there are two challenges: 1) finding or fabricating a new one-piece grill, and 2) finding a way to hide the aluminum chassis member behind. Without hiding it in some way, it will be more visible behind the grill than the bumper bar.

One the Project 7, it appears that they moved the black bar behind a one-piece grill, but it's still visible. Obviously getting your hands on Project 7 parts offers a potential solution, that is if the nose opening is exactly the same.

At any rate, here's a picture of what it looks like inside the nose.

 

Foosh,
On this pic, was the hood and front nose removed as a single unit from the car or were they each removed from the car separately?

 

Not sure, and it's not my picture, which I found from an old thread here.

When I had my bumper bar repaired, the body shop only talked about taking the nose off, not the hood. I just looked and all top nose fasteners are easily accessible with the hood up.

 

Thanks all for the info. And thanks for that inside loo of the front, that's very informative.

This all will however require some thought. My Jag is right now in Winter hibernation, but I'm thinking of getting some stuff rounded up during winter, so that I can do some small fixes when spring arrives.

I'm in Sweden, and have found a good German supplier of parts. That's within EU so there will be no import charges and such.

 

Hi MrSTarhouse. Just by curiousity, where in Sweden are you? Not many F-types in Norway, and I can't remember seing anyone in Sweden either. I am in Oslo, but drives to Uddevalla frequently, as that is where my wifes family lives.

Regards
Arne

 

Removal looks pretty straightforward once you've identified where the clips are. Refer to the attachments for instructions. You probably won't need to remove ther harness from the bumper once disconnected just to replace the grill, so won't need to do all of the steps shown.

 

xdave, could you also provide the dis-assembly instructions for the hood. (And OT, can you find the dis-assembly instructions for the manual transmission shift knob and shifter down to the linkage?)

 

My wife's 2012 Miata has a black bar behind the mesh grill, and it's hard to see. In later years, the bar shows. We need a Project 7 grill, but also a way to mount the parking sensors.

 

Thanks Xdave. Wunderful pdfs. I will keep them til spring.

And Arne, I'm in Örebro. Only F-Type here, as far as I know. I've seen you here, you got yours somewhere south. btw, by strange coincident, my second name is Arne. Per Arne. :-)

 

Thanks for the info Per Arne. I was online with my cellphone yesterday, and location is not listed as information on that kind of device


I did get my F-type second hand from Germany. As you probabely know, car taxes are rather (or very...) high in Norway, so I could not justify paying that much money for a new F-type R. And there are sold very few F-types here, so second hand market is pretty slim. Germany was not a bad place to look for a second hand car, as there were surprisingly many to chose from, and most of them rather well equiped. The challenge was to find a car that had not been driven too hard and with low milage, but I was lucky and I am very pleased with my choice.

I know there are a few other F-types in Oslo, but so far I have only seen one "in the wild". It would have been nice to meet up with someone else with an F-type for a coffee and chat. Unfortunately Örebro is a bit too far for an afternoon drive.

Have you done any special preparations for the winter hibernation?

 

No, not so much for the winter. I have it in a garage so I have connected a Ctek trickle charger to keep the battery OK. And a "Torrbollen" inside the car to keep it nice and dry, and then some protection over the cab, to avoid it getting dirty.

I have not increased the tire pressure. I usually don't And I usually don't get any problems.

Now just waiting for spring :-)

 

Seems like we have done several of the same "minor" preparations. Not much that is really needed as long as it is inside a garage.

Not a bad idea to use something to dry up the air inside. I might put some cat-litter sand inside a sock and see how that works

 

Rice in a sock works well also. It can also be reconditioned on a regular basis by throwing it in a microwave to drive out the absorbed moisture.

 

Good advice - thanks