View Poll Results: How does your clutch work on maximum acceleration during a 1st to 2nd gear upshift.
Voters: 57. You may not vote on this poll
Clutch Satisfaction
#281
#282
I really want to thank Unhingd for his thorough explanations. Bought a new 2016 speed in August. I was easily able to demonstrate the slippage which severe when pounded. Printed out all Unhinges reports and took to my dealer. They gave me the right tech, we went for a 1/2 mile drive, smoked the clutch and this week the car is in for new clutch flywheel etc.
All the parts ordered for my car match the numbers Unhingd posted as the good parts. This forum has been very very valuable.!
BTW, the 6speed car is an absolute thrill to drive and I am so glad I stayed with my choice versus the auto. Auto is great-great but the 6speed is so much more drive-able for an old fart like me!!
All the parts ordered for my car match the numbers Unhingd posted as the good parts. This forum has been very very valuable.!
BTW, the 6speed car is an absolute thrill to drive and I am so glad I stayed with my choice versus the auto. Auto is great-great but the 6speed is so much more drive-able for an old fart like me!!
#283
#284
An upshift at around 5500 rpm will elicit a massive single explosion backfire. A perfectly executed double-clutched downshift will elicit plenty of automatic gunfire on decel. You need to drive it that way for awhile before the computer figures out what you are trying to do.
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Uncle Fishbits (11-07-2016)
#285
An upshift at around 5500 rpm will elicit a massive single explosion backfire. A perfectly executed double-clutched downshift will elicit plenty of automatic gunfire on decel. You need to drive it that way for awhile before the computer figures out what you are trying to do.
I guess I am pleased this is bumped, because I would love to just chat about MTs....
It's always so weird to me when people say "MT? You just got blown off the line", as if *even if you drag a lot*, that is the full driving experience. LOL
I found this interesting:
1) Do not rest hand on gearshift
2) Do not leave in-gear while at stop light
3) Never use clutch to hold yourself on a hill (feather throttle to find sweet spot of no rolling downhill)
4) Should not apply a lot of throttle when not at high engine RPM (example, do not floor it when going 40 mph in 6th gear)
5) Do not rest foot on clutch when driving
I sort of "knew" about now resting the hand heavily on the gear shift... I remember that from my Jeep.. You could feel the grinding vibrate into your hand. No bueno.
But I asked somewhere else.... riding the clutch while in reverse. Is that bad, just a matter of fact? Or is it ok because the clutch is doing something different than normal forward motion?
#286
Every time I tune the car, it seems the overrun is reduced until the computer adapts to my driving style.
I was aware of all the do-nots. However, hand resting is ok as long as you don't put any forward or rearward pressure on the stick to cause synchronizer wear. I've never worn out a synchronizer.
Yes, unless you are drag racing backward (ala "The Blob") you have to feather the clutch when in reverse to maintain control.
I was aware of all the do-nots. However, hand resting is ok as long as you don't put any forward or rearward pressure on the stick to cause synchronizer wear. I've never worn out a synchronizer.
Yes, unless you are drag racing backward (ala "The Blob") you have to feather the clutch when in reverse to maintain control.
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Uncle Fishbits (11-10-2016)
#287
To get fastest time off the line with a manual gearbox takes some abuse. Unlike normal starts, you rev the engine into power band then quickly release (but not drop!) clutch. Have traction off as you can't help but produce a bit of wheel spin right at engagement point. Doing this will produce shock through the drive train, but you will take off close to full power. If you do this regularly, you will need new transmission and possibly differential and central bearing.
Last edited by SinF; 11-07-2016 at 02:39 PM.
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Uncle Fishbits (11-10-2016)
#288
To get fastest time off the line with a manual gearbox takes some abuse. Unlike normal starts, you rev the engine into power band then quickly release (but not drop!) clutch. Have traction off as you can't help but produce a bit of wheel spin right at engagement point. Doing this will produce shock through the drive train, but you will take off close to full power. If you do this regularly, you will need new transmission and possibly differential and central bearing.
If people were using the technique that you suggest, I can understand why manufacturers started to install the clutch delay valves. I have driven all my cars hard and except for clutches, have not ever had a drive line failure.
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Uncle Fishbits (11-10-2016)
#289
I was curious about this delay valve thing, and found this very interesting web site. You guys are probably way beyond this now...
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6562
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Uncle Fishbits (11-10-2016)
#290
The clutch delay valve on the F-Type can actually be removed very easily by extracting it from the inlet side of the "clutch hydraulic pipe" that enters the transmission. This can be done from above at the left rear of the engine compartment.
1. Remove pressure line
2. Remove rubber spacer in pipe body
3. Remove check(flapper) valve
4. Replace rubber bushing and pressure line.
I removed that valve when I was fighting with the bad first generation clutches. I have since replaced it to provide full protection with the +70hp tune in place.
1. Remove pressure line
2. Remove rubber spacer in pipe body
3. Remove check(flapper) valve
4. Replace rubber bushing and pressure line.
I removed that valve when I was fighting with the bad first generation clutches. I have since replaced it to provide full protection with the +70hp tune in place.
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Uncle Fishbits (11-10-2016)
#291
new clutch in
New car. new drive. Car shifts with a completely different clutch pressure. Engagement in upshifts is what i would expect, a kick in the pants each time you hit the next gear. Before the car was just a gentlemanly shift going upwards.
I feel the real change was the pressure plate. Of course if you increase teh pressure, you have to alter the fibers of the clutch to withstand the add pressue, heat etc.
Thinking back to the old days of tuning british cars, if you pepped up the motor, you better jump up your spring rate on the clutch. My guess is Jag wanted an easy soft clutch so as to not receive complaints from the journalists when writing about the manual transmission. I see so many writers, mostly young guys, complaining or exaggerating about building up calve muscles to drive this car or that car. Bottom line, if you want to make power and transfer it from a motor to a differential, you have to increase pressure on the friction point.
If you have a 6speed and it is not of the new generation, get it updated. What a change. One more time, kudos to Unhingd!
I feel the real change was the pressure plate. Of course if you increase teh pressure, you have to alter the fibers of the clutch to withstand the add pressue, heat etc.
Thinking back to the old days of tuning british cars, if you pepped up the motor, you better jump up your spring rate on the clutch. My guess is Jag wanted an easy soft clutch so as to not receive complaints from the journalists when writing about the manual transmission. I see so many writers, mostly young guys, complaining or exaggerating about building up calve muscles to drive this car or that car. Bottom line, if you want to make power and transfer it from a motor to a differential, you have to increase pressure on the friction point.
If you have a 6speed and it is not of the new generation, get it updated. What a change. One more time, kudos to Unhingd!
The following 2 users liked this post by Stwsam:
Uncle Fishbits (11-10-2016),
Unhingd (11-10-2016)
#292
Every time I tune the car, it seems the overrun is reduced until the computer adapts to my driving style.
I was aware of all the do-nots. However, hand resting is ok as long as you don't put any forward or rearward pressure on the stick to cause synchronizer wear. I've never worn out a synchronizer.
Yes, unless you are drag racing backward (ala "The Blob") you have to feather the clutch when in reverse to maintain control.
I was aware of all the do-nots. However, hand resting is ok as long as you don't put any forward or rearward pressure on the stick to cause synchronizer wear. I've never worn out a synchronizer.
Yes, unless you are drag racing backward (ala "The Blob") you have to feather the clutch when in reverse to maintain control.
The following users liked this post:
Unhingd (11-10-2016)
#294
I am so glad I found this thread. I have a very early '16 F-Type S 6MT delivered delivered late June 2015 and it has had two clutch replacements already, once in January and another in June of 2016. Now at 22,000 miles it is time for a third clutch. I've read this thread with interest because it seems that there's a further revision that I may have been on the borderline for last time. It also looks like the same part numbers were used on both my replacements.
I am getting the car back to the dealer next week and will be armed with this thread. I am also raising a case with JLR USA because at this point I believe I could get it bought back. I really don't want to though because despite the clutch problems I love this car and I had it built specifically to order. If there is a revision of the clutch that fixes the horrendous slippage then I'm inclined to let them have a final go at fixing this.
I am worried about dealer push back as my last two replacements were not the plainest of sailing to get sorted.
I am getting the car back to the dealer next week and will be armed with this thread. I am also raising a case with JLR USA because at this point I believe I could get it bought back. I really don't want to though because despite the clutch problems I love this car and I had it built specifically to order. If there is a revision of the clutch that fixes the horrendous slippage then I'm inclined to let them have a final go at fixing this.
I am worried about dealer push back as my last two replacements were not the plainest of sailing to get sorted.
Last edited by tony2x; 02-15-2017 at 08:24 PM.
#295
I am so glad I found this thread. I have a very early '16 F-Type S 6MT delivered delivered late June 2015 and it has had two clutch replacements already, once in January and another in June of 2016. Now at 22,000 miles it is time for a third clutch. I've read this thread with interest because it seems that there's a further revision that I may have been on the borderline for last time. It also looks like the same part numbers were used on both my replacements.
I am getting the car back to the dealer next week and will be armed with this thread. I am also raising a case with JLR USA because at this point I believe I could get it bought back. I really don't want to though because despite the clutch problems I love this car and I had it built specifically to order. If there is a revision of the clutch that fixes the horrendous slippage then I'm inclined to let them have a final go at fixing this.
I am worried about dealer push back as my last two replacements were not the plainest of sailing to get sorted.
I am getting the car back to the dealer next week and will be armed with this thread. I am also raising a case with JLR USA because at this point I believe I could get it bought back. I really don't want to though because despite the clutch problems I love this car and I had it built specifically to order. If there is a revision of the clutch that fixes the horrendous slippage then I'm inclined to let them have a final go at fixing this.
I am worried about dealer push back as my last two replacements were not the plainest of sailing to get sorted.
Compare the part numbers installed at your last clutch replacement with this post:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...9/#post1455659
If they are the same, you already have the updated parts, otherwise make certain they get these parts installed next time.
Last edited by Unhingd; 02-15-2017 at 10:35 PM.
#296
#297
Compare the part numbers installed at your last clutch replacement with this post:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...9/#post1455659
If they are the same, you already have the updated parts, otherwise make certain they get these parts installed next time.
If they are the same, you already have the updated parts, otherwise make certain they get these parts installed next time.
Code:
1 T2R21165 CLUTCH (N/C) 6 T2R15201 BOLT (N/C) 1 JDE32591 CYLINDER-CLTCH S (N/C) 1 JDE27755 PIPE-CLUTCH (N/C) 1 XR89924 SCREW-HEXAGON FL (N/C) 2 T4N1299 PIN (N/C) 1 T4N1300 PIN (N/C) 1 T2R20968 FLYWHEEL (N/C) 10 T2R15200 BOLT-TORX (N/C)
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SinF (02-17-2017)
#298
This may or may not help you guys when you go in for clutch issues. Its an FYI to the dealers:
SSM73047.pdf
SSM73047.pdf
The following 7 users liked this post by WhiteTardis:
bb_sam (02-16-2017),
Bill400 (01-08-2021),
Inspector-G (02-17-2017),
lizzardo (09-23-2017),
SinF (02-17-2017),
and 2 others liked this post.
#299
This may or may not help you guys when you go in for clutch issues. Its an FYI to the dealers:
Attachment 142874
Attachment 142874
#300
This may or may not help you guys when you go in for clutch issues. Its an FYI to the dealers:
Attachment 142874
Attachment 142874