If he races, let him do the test drive and encourage him to get on it. One shift and he'll feel/see the problem.

 

So it went in this morning...was not thrilled about having to drive in the rain, but it was the day we had agreed upon. They've put me in an F-Pace for the time being...

Apparently is also subject to one of the campaigns related to the O2 sensors, so hoping I don't lose my snap, crackle and pop in the process. That one caught me by surprise since, well, like the clutch, I thought I was beyond the afflicted VIN's (in fact, I AM outside of the K309 range, albeit just barely).

Since it is there, I am ponying up to have the oil changed on my dime. What is in there is more than two years old and I took delivery a little over five weeks ago with it sitting at just over 300 miles. I would rather pay and have peace of mind given that I keep my vehicles until well over 200K miles (in most instances).

Sadly, they have to confirm the slippage before they could order the parts...we also quickly figured out the lot jockeys cannot drive a stick even after he hollered to them as I got out that "it's a stick" LOL. His comment to me as we sat inside and heard them struggle was "oh well, we're putting a new clutch in it anyhow."

 

Got the call late yesterday that it was almost done...they were still finishing the oil change that I wanted done for peace of mind. But since it was close enough to the end of the day and I didn't want to fight Houston traffic over there (and back to the office since I still had a few hours of stuff to do), they were good with getting it this morning.

Definite difference on the clutch. Not the difference I had anticipated on engagement off the line like some described and it still has somewhat of a soft 'feel' to it. However, I DON'T have the slipping anymore, and THAT is the critical thing here

Receipt reads: "Clutch slipping Verified Concern, Test drove vehicle, Found Vehicle Clutch Slipping. Removed Transmission, Replaced Clutch Material and Pressure Plate. Test Drove Vehicle, No Problem After Repairs."

Parts they list are:
T2R27466 Clutch
T4N1299 Pin (2)
T4N1300 Pin (1)
WP Warranty Part

Edited to add that, looking back at the earlier posts with part numbers, this clutch appears to be a 4th Generation item.

Also, am a little curious about no new flywheel, but I guess it is possible that since I discovered the problem almost immediately and the 2600 miles I had put on being mostly highway miles, there was not much glazing or other damage that necessitated new flywheel.

 

Having had time to actually focus on the car on my way home, I am NOT happy with the manner in which things were put back together.

I am not sure how much of the interior came out specifically for the clutch compared to some of the other stuff, but I have trim that is NOT back in place properly. But more critically, the shifter knob no longer is flush with the boot and there is slop in the gates that did not exist previously.

Complicating matters further is that, despite instructions NOT to wash the car, they apparently did and also sprayed crap that has the feel of armor-all in the interior. This has RUINED the extended leather package with which the car was equipped.

Unfortunately, my service guy was not in yesterday, so I cannot speak to him until tomorrow (Monday), but it is clear that the car is going back. I have a feeling this is going to be costly one way or the other.

When I took the car in, I had just rolled over 2900 miles, roughly 2600 of which I had put on since it was delivered to me a little over a month ago. It still had the 'new car' aroma to it and everything was tight, like a new vehicle is SUPPOSED to be. It no longer is tight in the interior nor do I even have the good leather smell greeting me when I open the door. In the span of a few days, this has gone from a vehicle that I loved to one that literally has me in tears and sick to my stomach.

 

The only interior pieces that need to be removed for a clutch change is the shift knob, boot and stick. To correct the boot alignment, push down on the top of the boot as far as it will go (about 1/2"), use your palm to smack down the knob as far as it will go and then lift back up on the top of the boot while keeping downward pressure on the knob. It should all snap into place. If it doesn't, they cracked the plastic retaining ring in the top of the boot which will need to be replaced.


As far as the gating issue, I suspect that they failed to reinsert the nylon bushing in the bottom of the stick where it attaches to the shift rod on the shifter rail.

 

At what point is a new car not new to you? Just curious?

 

Not sure I really understand the question. But this is a vehicle that had not even had the first payment come due. It was a never titled and never before put into service vehicle.

To have an interior ruined by idiots is inexcusable. It is bad enough that most of their lot jockeys cannot even drive a manual transmission vehicle (I am sure that there are more than three Jaguars in Houston that have manual transmissions...they have seen all three of mine that had a clutch through the years). But to have fit and finish damaged through carelessness is something for which there is no excuse and there is no proper remedy aside from gutting the affected interior parts and having someone competent replace them.

This would be appalling if it were two or three years post-delivery, but when they cannot return something from warranty service in the same interior condition as they took it in...let's put it this way- the way some talk about being dinged at lease turn-in inspections, this car would now be costing me a lot of money due to the interior damage.

 

Doesn't matter how old the car...if the dealer mucks it up, I make them fix it. 2 years ago my dealer put a small scratch on the door of my '02 MINI, and just two weeks ago they returned it to me with broken exterior trim clips. Both times they gladly fixed to retain my business and their reputation. To me, that car is still new. (Now my '90 pickup and '76 Land Cruiser are each just a hair past their prime).

 

A car becomes old when you want a new car.. Stuff happens, things clean up. When people die, that is a problem, the rest will buff out!

 

This is a great point, in deference to the other owner's concerns. But, I've just not dealt with crappy dealers. At a tire shop, they dropped a jack on the rear quarter panel of my wife's Mini Cooper, and they already had it in the body shop before telling me. Other times, I had dealers tell me about a scratch while they were fixing it, etc. So I've not dealt with shady business. I consider myself lucky. Between 1990 and 2005 it was because of community recommendations, great mechanics. Since then, social media reviews have greatly helped.

MBalanger I feel your pain.

I guess the question gets reversed, when does a crappy dealership think a car is not new? Whatever it takes them to save money.

 

Has anyone ever experienced a squeaky clutch after a cold day outside? With winter upon us here in Toronto, I noticed that when my 2018 R-Dynamic is parked outside in the cold, there is a squeaking noise at the top of the clutch release. Is this something that WD40 can solve or should I just be going to the dealership?

 

With a little foot pressure on the pedal, or fully released. If the former, it's a bad throw-out bearing. Dealer issue.

 

Ok...some interesting info:
Clutches
Generation part # Retail Price
1 T2R18945 $ 819
2 T2R21165 $ 1131
3 T2R25681 $ 1053
4 T2R27466 $ 517

 

Should we read anything into this? Especially reports that 4th gen is possibly clutch-only fix and does not require updated flywheel.

 

Maybe. Plus, for that price, it may just be the clutch disc without the pressure plate.

 

The work order on mine listed only the clutch part number, but then again, I had relatively few miles on mine. Flywheel was resurfaced according to my service manager...

I asked about pressure plate and he got interrupted by a call and we never got back to the question. Work order had shown removal/replacement of both clutch and pressure plate but with the prices shown here, I cannot see that it is a combo package. Not sure if they would have evaluated and determined that pressure plate was still good since it had next to no miles/use. I went in at less than 3K miles, and of that, 305 were on the car when I got it and another ~800 were from two trips. Rest is the ~110 mile round trip home to work, mostly at speed.

 

I suggest documenting everything, as your dealer didn't follow the procedure. Clutch fix calls for installing an updated fly wheel. Not sure what the difference, and if your flywheel was fine/would work - but if anything fails down the road you have a strong case to make them fix it under warranty.

 

Recently I had to look into gearbox fluids, here is what I found.

F-type MT is ZF s6-45. According to manufacturer (https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemed...e-ml-11-en.pdf) it takes Pentosin FFL-3 fluid.

However, it isn't clear what viscosity of this fluid is. One source (http://www.ons-industry.com/pdf/pent...ct_2009_03.pdf) lists it as SAE 75W. Pentosin spec is here (http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/T...2017_COLOR.pdf), however converting this to SAE is beyond my ability.

I sent my MT (not a factory fill) for oil for analysis, and the lab states it isn't SAE 75W, but close to SAE 30. Workshop manual states to use T2R17199 fluid, and that what is in the gearbox.

Anyone has numbers on factory fill?

---

This leaves a lot of unanswered questions.

Q1: Does T2R17199 meets FFL-3 spec? If not, then we will soon have a lot of gearbox failures as people change factory fills.

Q2: Is FFL-3 SAE 75W or 30W?

Q3: Is there alternative fluid for extreme applications that would prolong life of ZF gearbox?

 

SinF, the Blackstone result (9.54 cSt @ 100degC) is actually a hair heavier than the Pentosin FFL-3 (7 cST = 7 mm2/s) which meets the GX73-M1R564-AA specs required by Jag.

 

See: https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/pentosin-ffl-3.html


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