Correct.

 

Seems that your system configuration is definitely not correct. If your door have significant output at 38hz then they are probably getting full range across the 3 drivers. The fact that you have subs but essentially no signal suggests the system isn't configured to actually use them.

 

Have just installed my system over the WE and pretty happy with it. Cleans up the bass nicely and with not having to turn up the bass in the head unit not getting any reverberation from the rear panels now with louder volumes. All door panels and rear speaker panels were already dynamited before so definitely a improvement. I went for tight punchy base rather than volume because that is what I prefer but also my install only allows for 8 inch sub in the boot well given it’s size.
Wasn’t sure if I could make a airtight sub enclosure from the boot well given it is covered in carpet but given everyone carpets their subwoofer boxes and then screws in their subs without using a gasket thought it was doable.
Here are my install pictures


Routed the wiring through pre-existing hole in shell from elastic band. Then sealed the rest of the hole afterwards. Also needed to seal the other 3 holes in the shell from the other slots for the other inbuilt elastic bands

Outside view

Face board is Inset into the shell to allow subwoofer to stick out a bit and still remain below floor level.
face plate is perfect fit so will wedge down into place and won’t even come out if inverted. Screwed in from the side so will not move upwards ever but I doubt this needs to be done once edges are sealed with hot glue.

Mdf cut to size from cardboard template to get correct depth. Edges are all routed with 11.25 degree chamfer bit except one edge which is shallower so needed 15degree chamfer bit.

Another use for tyre black

Happily sealed with no air leaks.


Partially installed



Completely stealth and usable

 

So did you just use the storage bin and add a MDF baffel board to mount your Sub? No reinforcement of the five plastic sides of the bin?

 

Definitely sacrificing some performance with a sealed enclosure relying on the plastic tub to provide rigidity. A few strips of MDF and a couple layers of fiberglass would tighten it up. I'd also suggest fiberglassing that baffle board to the bin.

 

Agreed, you are losing output as the 5 plastic sides of the enclosure flex and rob the subwooofer of energy, especially when paired along with the inherent inefficiency of the sealed enclosure design. I would use that bin as the mold and lay glass inside like was suggested, at least 3/8 inch.

 

you guys are probably right. my only reference point is the oem subs in the back so not hard to be better than that.
I guess next project will be MDF box to enable a A-B comparison

 

I think i have the same problem as you jag bass. The sound improvement I had was me just just dialing the subwoofer level to zero before setting the gain on my amp.
I have taken my high level inputs from the two rear subs and although there is extra sound and cone movement no real volume output., so likely less than 1v also.
Next few free days I have I am going to switch the wire taps to the lower door woofers as there are obviously getting the full lower freq signal.

 

Car is at jaguar now and they have opened a technical case to get to the bottom of the issue. May be a more wide spread problem and may also be a contributing factor as to the many complaints out there regarding the sound quality of the F Type Meridian System overall. Does not make sense that the Meridian system in one model of Jaguar sounds good and the F Type not so much.

 

Can you share more details/pics of the mounting of your amplifier.

 

Will be a few week before i can take out all the panels to rewire my system. I am going to self make a moulded pvc sheet for my final amp mounting board but in the mean time just using knock together scraps as see in my photos. it screws into the brace ontop of the wheel well with a M8 screw and is rock solid mounting this way but unequal base of this brace makes it fiddly to set up . Will post photo once i get the chance

 

Latest on my audio issue from Jaguar. Technical advisor authorized dealer to receive a replacement AAM for continued testing to see if that resolves the issue. I asked the service manager what their response was about the fact that the car was built with Meridian Surround AMP and center channel dash speaker. So far the response was, they do them all that way because its easier. So does that mean all of the newer jags come with the same hardware and just depending on what you pay for is what they enable? I hope to find out a clearer answer on this. That would mean that technically the CCF files could be modified to turn on the Meridian Surround features if the hardware being installed now is all the same.

 

Here's my home made box with Hertz Legend ML2500 coupled with JL HD750/1 amp and lc2i converter. Sounds awesome! Just remember to get the piped exhaust sounds coded out otherwise the sub sounds like a helicopter when music paused.

 

Not following.

 

So the car is still at Jaguar and they have replaced the AAM. Went by yesterday to listen and no change, still a severe lack of output from the rear sub channels. I sat in a 21 Ftype and an 18 Ftype both with the 380 systems just to compare. The output from these vehicle rear subs was nearly identical. I am starting to think that what I perceive as a problem is actually normal behavior of these systems.

Because Jaguar has identified these rears as sub-woofers I was expecting sub bass not barely declarable rear fill lows. If the F Type has the same low frequency roll off that most every other car manufacturer put in their vehicle to prevent blown speakers then that might explain the total output of 1 watt at 50 Hz. They should never have marketed the rears as sub-woofers because woof they do not. Going to check out TH3FRB's car tomorrow just to see if the 770 Meridian Surround is any different.

 

How does everyone that has added in their own rear sub get away with taking high level inputs from these rear subwoofers ?? I mean there is some minuscule output to amplify but hardly sound transforming

 

Probably best to take signal from the door woofer, not sure exactly how low the signal goes but worth a try. You could look at something like an audiocontrol LC1i as well, it may be able to increase the level enough to satisfy. They are about 79.00.

 

Fairly confident the door speakers don't receive the bottom end signal you need for a sub. Sending anything below about 90hz would quickly destroy those 200mm drivers.

 

So car is back from jaguar and nothing has changed after installing a new amplifier. I have a photo of the old amplifier decal so I will pull things apart this weekend to verify that.

While playing some test tracks last night, I am still hearing the rear sub-woofer distortion at low volume using a 60Hz test tone, fill speaker not even turning until fading 3 positions back from center and now the blue tooth audio stream just stops. It happened three times where the music progress bar was moving on both the phone and car but no audio. Switching source to radio then back to the phone starts the audio again. I assume that the IAM Integrated Audio Module handles the Bluetooth audio as well. I wonder if this is also related to the horrid bluetooth call quality? I was planning to just delete the rear subs and rear fill issue altogether by going the Audison 8.9 route using just the door spears as input but if there are problems in the Integrated Audio Module then even that's not going to be the best thing. Once I cut into the harness to get the amplifier outputs I need for the Audison 8.9, I am sure that jaguar will no longer attempt to try to fix this issue claiming that I caused the problem with a modification.

 

No issues with BT audio quality for calls on my system. I've only streamed music a few times but not had any issues there either.