I would consider sticking the 8.9 in so that you have a visual of what the heck is going on with the system.

 

Started surgery on the cat this weekend. First order after pulling out interior was to disconnect the useless rear subs and fill speakers. Ran some frequency sweeps and the door woofers were definitely dropping low.


Should be plenty of signal to work with and the accubass can make up the rest. Unbundled the wiring to the amp and will be inserting moles plug in the speaker output wiring so it will be easy to remove the system if we sell one day.


Built my mount to attach audison amp over the right rear wheel..


Here is the amp partially installed.

 

Does anyone know where to get the small metal studs in the distribution block in the boot. Jaguar does not sell separately, wants to sell a whole new distribution Box. These are the starts that the smalle M IDI fuses mount to.

 

I would just grab the unpopulated big nut that I put my 1/0 wire on. Running over to your amp location, I’d do a fuse within 6” or so after the buss bar.

 

What is the bosch module in the well control?

 

Ok swapped my high level inputs for my sub from the rear subs to the lower door bass units and WOW.
Now working as expected . Should have done this from the outset.

I connected my amp direct to the positive battery terminal on the second connection point with a m8 bolt rather than to the bus bar. Probably makes no difference but figured less current being drawn through the bus the better and also amp fuse can be right next to the battery and not 2.5 feet downstream

 

What would you say is the difference?

 

Kind of what I was expecting you would see.

 

Big thanks to you Jag Bass for identifying the stupid reduced output to rear subs issue. I would have been stuck thinking I had mis wired something for months and would never have guess it was a factory issue.

Also big thanks to you Robtrt8 , followed your build and the amplifier out wiring colours was invaluable

Prior to changing source of inputs there was no significant output from my sub . I have the remote bass control knob. Changing for zero to max on the remote would increase some bass but you would have to purposely listen for a difference otherwise you would miss it . So it would make say 5% extra on maximum. Now I can adjust the same knob and get a 200% increase so never have to dial it up much at all ever again.

Mounted the remote where the cup holder used to go and sits low enough so that I can still close the lid. There is a large hole at the front to feed wiring through . Used a old black vcr case cut to size after doing a template because piece needs to be both flat to cover floor of cubby but also have a front lip to cover front of hole that is on the front wall of the cubby too.

 

I'm assuming you haven't measured voltage from the sub channels? Do you have the 380W or 770W system. We need to figure out if this is "normal" or actually a problem. By normal I mean this is just the way the 380W system is set up - the subs aren't really supposed to be active. A bunch of people have used the sub channels to feed their amp and run a new subwoofer without issues so I'd really like to make some sense of this. When JagBass and I measured the output from my sub channels (770W) it was significantly more than in his 380W system and he said my subs had way more output than his. I'd prefer to use my sub channels so I don't have to depend on additional processing to restore all of the low freq signal being filtered out on the door woofers. I understand they are getting some information down to 25Hz but it's rolled off a lot. That can be overcome but just adds more processing.

Did you just piggy-back tap the door woofer signals to feed your amp?

 

I only have the 380w system and only have my ear-o-meter to test things. Amp inputs are piggybacked from the door woofers. Can’t remember if it was this thread or another but I have said before that I have a suspicion that JLR has the set the system up for the 180w base trim and didn’t even bother to change or tune the system for the 380w system . Those with a 770w system are probably luckier. It would be interesting if doing a survey of everyone with the 330w system to see if we all have no rear sub output from factory

 

Just updated my stereo build log, thought I would mention a big change I made, based on this thread's conversation about the factory channels.
With a couple clicks of the mouse I switched inputs on the DSP's sub output for my sub from the factory sub channel to the factory mid bass channels.
The sound coming from my sub was immediately more musical and much much more impactful.

 

For those who may not already be aware, when you stream from your phone if you have applied EQ settings from an app like spotify those are applied to the signal received by your car. That information is again manipulated further if you EQ the audio again hence adding with the Meridian controls or other DSP's that have been used like audio control DSP, Alpine DSP, or Audison. One obscure feature of android some might not be aware is the ability to test your hearing and actually compensate with level adjustments to help with those years of hearing damage alot of us have. Its called adapt sound and bumps those levels where your hearing needs it the most. On Android 11 it can be found in the sound settings menu. not sure what apple has to provide if anything. Once you go thru the test, you will cave a customized curve for your hearing. I set the EQ in spotify to normal as not to color the sound any further before streaming to the car which minimizes the chance of adding any additional distortion to the signal. Once on the car side you can now tune to compensate for the non-linearity of your specific speakers to try and achieve as flat a curve as possible. From that point you can throw in some additional EQ for whatever music type your listening to if that's your thing.

Below is the curve from my phone, the lighter area is the actual result of the test and dark upper portion of each band is what the software added to the frequency to compensate for frequencies where there were deficits in hearing found.

 

So back on topic of the progress of my build. Since I have yet to receive any additional followup regarding how JLR has screwed up this factory install, I proceeded forward interfacing the front door channels into the Audison 8.9 amp. Having trouble with the summing function that I believed the Audison contained, I reached out to their tech Chris. Come to find out the Audison 8.9 only has the ability to sum channels 1 - 4 which is where the tweeters and mids were assigned. The only way to sum in the door woofers was to either get the SPM4 which would passively sum the mids and highs before the Audison amp. This would then be able present the combine high and mid signal as one channel and the other channel would be the door woofer. The other route would be getting the Audison F8.9 which has the ability to sum 6 channels without the SPM4 unit. So I started looking at the F8.9 which would have as doubled the power output at the same time as allowing the summing of all three of the door speakers. Then I started looking at the Audiocontrol D-6.1200 which would have been slightly cheaper and tripled+ the power alsong with software that gives the same capabilities the Audison has and full input RTA and output RTA. The software also can be connected to the amp via bluetooth if you choose that feature. So the D-6.1200 should arrive today and the Audison 8.9 will find a new home in the vette which is perfect for summing the two way setup in the doors.

Had to reset and spend some time finding a tucked away mounting spot ror the larger D-6.1200 so will post photos when that is finalized.

Pics of the final arrangement sub enclosure in the rear well, sound deadening and mounting of the Audiocontrol 1.300.

 

Good looking install.
I've installed a couple LC 6.1200's in boats. Including in my Malibu ski boat. Tons of clean power. They do want 4 gauge minimum power wire though.
I'm curious to see what your input gain settings turn out to be. I used the Rockford 3sixty Level Set track initially and found the factory mid inputs needed to be turned up a bunch.

 

On the DSP input gains. I followed the directions in the DM-810 “knowledge base” walk through. Put the mid bass into 1-2 because its the first to clip and easiest for the DM-810 to detect. Found the factory system clips and 1/2 volume! (30 on a scale of 0-60).

 

Can you provide a link to that info?

 

https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowled...tup-walk-thru/

 

The 2020 Incontrol Touch Pro starts to flicker around 40 and never really does fully turn on at any point all the way up to 60.

 

So while researching info on the Land rover Meridian Signature Speakers for their actual frequency response I discovered that the LR047119 200mm Woofer, LR033290 100mm Mid Range, and the LR033292 Tweeter are all 8 ohm drivers. Not that it means a lot, but I remember that higher impedance driver are better controlled by the amplifiers damping in addition to not pushing the amplifier as hard to achieve basically the same output. The speakers are produced by PSS Premium Sound Solutions. The PSS door woofers are called CDD or Coil Disc Drive Speakers.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing