Mine is black and to me, the chrome does not look right on the car, might try do a flat black on the leaper and just remove all the others.

 

Some tips on repainting the leaper:
1. Remove it from the car first, no way it can be painted well in place!
2. Use fishing line or dental floss to "saw" most of it away from the spoiler lid (ie cut through any adhesive), starting from the outer edges in towards the middle until you hit the mounting/location prongs, then use plastic trim tools to lever it off.
3. I used left over rattle can gloss black calliper paint, worked great looks factory and has not deteriorated one iota in over six years. Not sure if you can get calliper paint in flat black though. Use 3 or 4 thin coats allowing 15 to 20 minutes between coats.
4. You can choose to stick the leaper back where it came from, ie with the locating prongs back in the holes, or do as I did and stick it back on about 2 cm below that spot (more central on the spoiler lid seeing as the "Jaguar" lettering is now gone) after cutting the prongs off the back. 2 cm lower is about as low as you can go and still cover the mounting/locating holes.
5. Either way black silicon RTV windscreen sealant works perfectly and sticks like s..t to a blanket, but use it sparingly and not too thick otherwise it will squish out the sides too much and make a mess. Clean up any excess sealant with a cloth dipped in mineral turps, you have about 10 minutes to clean it up before the sealant starts to cure/set.

 

A very reasonable £11.33 each from Britcar

 

Do you have a picture of the leaper now, would love to see it and thanks for the advice!!

 

Your wish is my command, here's a pic taken a few hours after I first repainted and repositioned the leaper.
It has not changed one iota since then.

 

Thanks @OzXFR , think I will paint instead of removing the leaper.

 

Maybe it’s changed two iota?

(Looks great!).

Cheers mate.

 

You can easily coat the leaper and letters with Plasti Dip without removing from the car. Best part is it looks great and is totally reversible with mineral spirits.

 

Not contradicting Jag Bass as it was probably user error, but I tried plastidip before I debadged and actually I struggled with it on the letters as it was too hard getting the overspray out from the gaps, eg the "A", the "F" and the "E". You are meant to allow overspray and then essentially trim it off, it was super fiddly and I was worried about scratching the duco. So I ended up giving up on that, I debadged and then followed the instructions above for the leaper paint and reposition. I went to put the lower bumper "F-Type" letters back on but found that to be a PITA with positioning and also movement due to gravity so I ended up leaving it completely bare and convinced myself that it is now true to the CX-16 concept.

But I have used plastidip a lot on our other cars, I like it because (unlike wrap) it is fine if the car is left out in the sun a lot, and it is completely reversible, although overspray is an absolute bitch. It can be a pain if it gets a nick, it starts to peel back off like true wrap, but easy enough to correct. I am tempted to show off my daughter's mazda2 that is plastidipped with panther pink highlights and has pink calipers and pink wrap flames on the sides, but that is barely tangentially relevant and I get the feeling I am the only person who thinks it is funny, sigh.

 

I have found that you dont stop to soon adding the coats. I usually do 10 coats about 20 minutes apart. The thicker it is when you go to peel off the surface of the paint the better. I do a rectangular taping around the area then masking paper. When I spray I make sure to get a good amount in the rectangle as well, not just the letters and leaper.

 

Sweet, so how to you trim around the letters? like inside an "A" for example? I was fine on the outsides but got myself into a mess on the insides and didnt want to use a blade on it.

 

You don't, once you lift the corner of the plastidip on the painted surface and start pulling they will pull away from around the letters and leaper emblem pretty easily. Used a small tweezer to pick out small areas like inside of the letters.

 

Cheers, I did that on most of it but came to grief on the inside bits of the letters where it started to lift from the letter itself, but maybe I didnt have enough coats as I would have only done 5 or 6 tops.

 

Some of us are RWD only. Lol And in my 6cyl base manual, I am so glad I didn't pick up the 8 cylinder unhinged beast rear wheel drive from 2015 or whatever. Holy crap that is scary. So many people go sideways fast.

 

I did not do this myself but the people who applied my Xpel and ceramic coat did this for me when I requested it. Some other smart forum person that I have forgotten was the first to do the badging this way. But if anyone is curious about some options, I really do like this one. I'm not a complete and full debadge guy, because it leads to more conversations here in the States. But fully debadging in Europe might stop a kidnapping so I understand. Lol lol lol



The F-Type is on the right.