Hey all, very sorry to have this be my first post here, but here it is.

Ftype 2015 S, V8 convertible.

Took off last night aroud 5pm from the house. Within 100 feet or so all my dashboard lights came flashing (I remember seeing everything from ABS system to wing malfunction). I immediately felt my brakes not working too well. I pulled off to the side of the road and shut the car off, gave it a few seconds and went to turn it back on, only to lose every light and it went dark on me.

I opened the door and realized that it's stuck in the Lock position. I tried the emergency key, though it turned and I hear the door unlock, the handle won't pop out.

The ONLY things that have life are pulling the Ebrake gives a notification on the dash and the radio works fully. Nothing else comes on or operates including keys, lights, etc.

Checked the battery from the front and it shows full.

i spent my night trying to find a dolly truck to tow the car since it's now stuck in E brake but I'm still waiting. 3 trucks showed up and couldn't help.

Now I have a tarp on it since it's raining. This is a nightmare.

Theories include a dead ECU or Anti Theft. My goal is to get her to the dealership today.

Will keep this updated. Any ideas? Cheers.

 

Welcome to the forums Richard,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to F-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Graham

 

Sorry to hear about your problems.

First, I would start by trying to getting into the trunk and disconnecting battery to reset everything.

I think you can also manually release parking brake. I never done it myself, but I recall reading in the manual that there is a way to do it.

 

I had a similar experience a couple weeks ago. My problem was with the Central Junction Board / Body Control Module. It's located in the passenger foot well. You just need to get to it and disconnect the 3 main connectors and let it reset. In my case, the BCM was fine and I was working again. The dealership wanted to charge me $1400 for labor and new BCM. I went to dealership and performed the described action above and drove it home. Only was charged $147 for the labor costs for the diagnostics.

I was stranded at a gas station pump for 1.5 days before a tow truck would help. I've learned not to use the emergency brake every time when stopped. I had to purchase wheel dollies for the back tires to be able to load on the tow truck. Major scary experience and difficulty though.

Good luck and hopefully that's your issue too.

 

Can't get to the trunk or manually release parking brake. I know as I lived through the experience and dealt with techs at dealership.

 

Here's the EPR (emergency park release) procedure from the PDI document which should allow the vehicle to be moved for recovery:




Graham

 

All, first I want to thank everyone for the quick responses.

The nightmare continued this morning. I ended up having 7 trucks in total show up and tell me the car is too low or think they can get it in Neutral but could not. I can not get to the trunk at all. The battery shows full when tested from under the hood. The doors won't shut because the windows are not in the shut position. This has been very strange all around, but the strangest has been the emergency key. The key goes in, I can turn it, I head the door lock, the LED on the lock pad inside actually turns on, I turn it the other way, hear the door click (unlock), the light shuts off, but the handle simply will now stay open.
It rained all night here so I had a tarp on the car to prevent water from sneaking in through the open doors. This has been an absolute nightmare.
One tow truck was going to try the center console trick, but I asked him not to (did not want to damage anything further). Ended up having to use 2 separate trucks to tow the car.

 

My suggestion.
1. Try to provide power to the jumper terminals that are under the hood (right side). That should give you access to the trunk. If not, go to step 4.
2. Disconnect the battery and make certain it is fully charged. The whole system can go haywire if the battery is drained to far, but there may still be enough juice to operate the infotainment system.
3. Reconnect battery. If still no good go to step 4, otherwise drive away.
4. Follow the instructions in post #4 above. If still no good, something is terminally FUBAR: Get car to dealer after manually releasing EPB. Otherwise, drive away.

EDIT: Since the car is now towed, ignore the aforementioned.

 

Thanks! Did your radio stay on? Did your doors stay locked? Did your dashboard light up like a Christmas tree first?

 

Thanks for this. Jumper terminals read battery was full and did not help get anything on/open/etc. Really doesn't seem like a battery issue, seems like something is stuck electrically. Oh well, on its way to the dealer. Will keep you guys updated, really horrible experience.

 

I had the exact same thing happen. Time for a new battery. Don't let them take you to the cleaners if you are out of warranty. All it needs is a charge/new battery. The car is fine.

 

Thanks for this! The battery read full (from the front) and we had jumper cables plugged into the front terminals for a while, nothing ever came on and it kept reading Full. Wouldn't the battery warn that it's low? Wouldn't a light be on? Even if dim? Just seems strange that everything shuts off except the radio. Also the radio was still on and functional 15 hours later?

Thanks!

 

Can AGM batteries (like the OEM one) incur shorted cells, as lead-acid batteries can?

That asked, I agree that the car's battery management needs to be reset. Remember there are two. The radio could be running off the ECO battery but the controls won't allow access to the main battery for starting. (Which would be the opposite scenario as if the usual "Battery Low - Start Car" warning wasn't received.)

 

In my case I was driving down the highway, minding my own business, when I got a rapid succession of faults, there were probably 5 to 10 that flashed by including transmission faults, battery faults, coolant temp warnings, too many to absorb. I remember the coolant temp ball dropped to the floor from normal. So I figured the warnings were bad, and rolled to a stop on the shoulder. Being stupid, I thought maybe if I turn it off and on again they'd reset. It turned off, but would not turn back on. Nothing. I wasn't as familiar with the car at the time. But I thought maybe if I gave it a few minutes it would restart. I lowered the windows and let the car sleep for maybe 10 mins and it did start back up. But on the few mile trip home, the car flashed fault after fault and the steering even felt a little wonky. But it was running ok and I have a CPO so I drove it home. Battery charged and started right up fine. But I bought a cheap lighter USB plug with a voltage readout to monitor it, and the battery would not hold a strong charge so I got a new battery and a tender to use every couple of weeks to top it off, since I make a lot of short trips. All is 100%. That was maybe two years ago at 20-25K miles in a 2014 V8.

 

This procedure did not work when the Central Junction Board / BCM was foobar. The Jaguar Techs were shocked but concluded must be a security measure.

 

My theory is that Jags have a high electrical drain when not fully asleep, meaning doors locked and powered down. That combined an AGM battery's 12.8V nominal voltage and the use of a traditional 12V alternator, means the battery falls into chronic weak voltage state which kills the battery a bit faster and eventually triggers the car to protest.

 

In yours and the OPs cases, it was a TANTRUM.

 

Could it be that the anti-theft function immobilize the vehicule ?
What can occur in the case of a weak transmitter battery ?
This can just be reset by OBD2, disconnecting battery dont help.

 

​​​​​​I think I did reset a code, too.

 

Well, this scares the hell out of me while I'm searching for my F type!