Following an oil change with "service reset" carried out by a non dealership Jaguar shop, my battery was completely dead on going to the car for the first time, after bringing it home ( a few days later).
I have tried to charge it with a CTEK from the jump points in the front, which provided enough power to open the trunk and connect the unit directly, but the CTEK indicates that the battery will not accept a charge. This is a 9 month old OEM battery that was previously flawless.
Any thoughts?

 

This has been covered many times, but it's highly likely that the shop connected something to the OBD2 port and didn't "undock" properly. This causes the engine computer to keep the port open and run down the battery. Disconnect the battery for about a minute, then reconnect it. The problem is probably fixed, though you may still have to recharge the battery if it's flat. You will have to reprogram the door windows, instructions in your manual.

 

The CTEK can’t charge it if it’s completely dead - it needs to detect a voltage before it turns on. Do you have a real battery charger? If the battery is that low, then even if you can charge it, it’s lost some of its life.

KB58 is correct, but as far as I know, Jag has never recognized that 3rd party OBD devices can cause this. But if it’s the dealer’s fault, they owe you a battery.

I’d suggest printing out one of the longer threads relating to this to give to the dealer. Fair chance they haven’t heard of this.

 

You can jump the battery to bring the voltage up, until the CTEK detects it.

 

I've read conflicting advice here on what batteries do what in which F, so it's important to know if you have a two battery model or single. I have a MY2017 base/premium. Just after purchasing the car, I had a new AGM battery installed by JLR dealer. Before installing the CTEK, I checked with my JLR tech, who advised me to connect it to the large AGM battery in the trunk. There are MANY threads/posts on connecting the CTEK to that main AGM. I chose to follow the tech's advice, which consisted of using the positive/red eyelet under a bolt in the T-bar on the main/AGM battery and the ground/black eyelet under the battery ground on the floor of the trunk. There are also conflicting thoughts on using that charging panel under the hood in the right front corner of the car. Some have said that little charging panel is only good to charge the 'small' battery, the one that's used to restart the car for when you come to a stop and then the restart. If you would like photos of the CTEK install in the trunk, let me know.

 

Only the 2015 and earlier models had two batteries, both of which were in the trunk (one was for the eco/stop/start). 2016 up used just one single battery. The connections under the hood go back to the only battery in the trunk.

 

Many thanks all. The single battery in my 2016 V6S is now slowly charging. I disconnected the CTEK for an hour and then reconnected it and left it overnight.
I contacted the garage and will be taking the car back, one fully charged, not least because I see the battery now has white residue build up on the negative terminal, which I understand may reflect excess sulfuration in the AGM battery. This was not present before.
I had to connect to the engine points as Jaguar designed the car so that we can't open the trunk for direct battery access if power is dead. I have the permanent CTEK leads connected to the battery terminal links so once the trunk was open I could charge more directly.
The advise has proven very helpful and much appreciated.

 

If you hooked up a real charger or another battery to the underhood terminals, you should then be able to open the trunk. If the CTEK is charging, then that might be able to do it too.

 

Well I fully charged the battery: the car lights up, the convertible top can be closed and the seats move but, zero ignition. No starter motor effort, nothing. And the only notification on the dashboard is that SOS is disabled, otherwise no warnings.
I even tried the owner manuals suggestion to leave the clutch alone, turn on the power, slowly press the accelerator then when fully depressed, press the ignition button (in neutral of course) - nothing.
very perplexing ! ! !
To make matters worse, my other car is also out of action ( ruptured tire sidewall in a difficult to find tire).

 

Have you held the key right up against the little spot under the dash?

 

Hi Everyone:

Up to now; I've replaced and put in, in order to also address the "system too lean" finding from the ODBC scanner:
new battery,
all 8 new NGK sparkplugs,
replaced the air filter,
cleaned out all the components(MAF) that attached to the air filter housing box and put tape all around the joints where air can leak in,
also put in fuel injection cleaner with gasoline,
top up with more coolant, power steering fluid and 5w-30,
and checked and saw all good fuses in the 5 compartments throughout the car (I still replaced the ABS and ODBC fuses).

The engine compartment and interior got a good cleaning. While replacing the sparkplugs, I saw two ignition coils with some oil coating (on the left banks) see pic-may need new gasket?, also saw faint coolant vaporing in front of the engine after a short drive but coolant level is still near cap afterwards.. I think the engine and transmission are likely ok as I drove it 7+ times now. I was able to drive it past 4-5k rpm and going 70mph for a short distance. However every time I cold start the engine, it shutters for a while until it gets warm and the engine still goes limp around 3k rpm some times unexpectedly. The exhaust smells heavy which maybe due to the old gasoline mixed in the tank with new, that's being burnt?. But my main problems as indicated by the dashboard lights still have not gone away: the yellow check engine light, yellow ABS(Innova 5310 scanner test says C1095: hydraulic pump motor-circuit failure, which I saw a youtube video saying ABS circuit board may need soldering), and the yellow and red light in center dashboard (I read up on the manuals as what these 2 are).

Also does anyone know what 1) that little black device is next to the ODBC connector that has a red light, is it a mod or radar detector( maybe while it got installed, they might have re-routed the ODBC wires which causes the non-linking in the ODBC scanner?), and 2) there's an electrical connector next to the battery that I don't know if it should be connected to anything. Any other quick fix ideas for the yellow check engine light, maybe related to broken ABS? I think I've done all I can now and don't intend to and have tools to lift the car to do more work. My immediate goal is to pass emission(which I know will fail due to check engine light) and then take the car to the indy shop to get that fix and get the car to normal operating condition, if it's economical to fix the car. I wonder how good it will drive if the engine is fully normal. Sorry for the long read but thanks..

 

For the technical types, an older AGM battery can often be restored to near full health after suffering abuse and multiple complete discharges.

This is how it is done: (Note, there is no other way, no pulse charging, desulfating, digital nonsense will restore an AGM like this method)

Slowly discharge a 12V battery to 10V, using a light bulb or other small load.
Charge for 16 hours, using a CONSTANT CURRENT power supply at 1/10th the "1 hour " AH rating. Note most batteries are rated at 20 hour AH. The 1 hour rating is 85% of that.

If your car's AGM battery is rated at 90AH, it really is 76AH at the "1 hour" rating. Use 7.6A CONSTANT CURRENT charge for 16 hours. Voltage will climb to near 18 at the end of the charge cycle. If the battery gets hot or you get sleepy , stop at 8 hours and resume for 8 more hours the next day.

Finding a power supply that will produce 7.6A is not so easy, but Ebay and Amazon have them. They are not expensive.

 

I think we have another victim of 'Related Threads'.

 

Your posting is for the X308 XJ8 sedan. This list is for an entirely different car, the F-Type. No information given regarding the f-Type applies to your car!