All,
I figured I would share my experience waterproofing my convertible top. These steps are well documented for other cars and models, but I just wanted to confirm for new owners or F-Type owners that the process is the same. I used 303 fabric cleaner and fabric convertible top protectant.

First, clean the top using a vaccuum to remove and dust. Then rinse the top with clean water. My top was absorbing every drop and was not beading water whatsoever. Once the top is nice and wet, spray the cleaner spray on the top using around 3-4 sprays per side and 6 total sprays on the middle part of the top. Proceed to scrub (medium pressure) with a horse hair brush. A nice lather will be produced. Proceed to rinse off all of the soap, which will take a fair amount of water. Then wash your car as you normally would.

Leave (or move) the car in the sun to allow the top to fully dry. I started this process at 8am and allowed the top to dry in the sun until 11am. It was fully dry and warm by then. I then moved the car into the shade to apply the protectant.

Then I used a lint roller to pick up any horse hair that had fallen off the brush when cleaning the top. This is going to happen and is normal. Just wait till the top is dry to try and remove these hairs. It's almost impossible to remove them when the top is wet.

Next, using blue painters tape, I masked off the top windshield area which touches the fabric top. I also masked off the rubber seals that surround the fabric. Lift the trunk up to easily mask off the trunk seals. Also, you don't really want the protectant getting on paint or the rubber seals. It's going to happen though, so be prepared with a microfiber towel to remove it quickly.

I decided I didn't want to spray the protectant onto the top because I had to do this procedure outdoors and I didn't want to risk any overspray onto the paint. I also didn't want to mask off the entire car with plastic film. I elected to purchase a three inch microfiber paint roller applicator (any hardware store will have this) and apply it using the roller. I poured a small amount of the protectant into a metal pan and then dipped the roller into the pan. The roller would be medium wet with the protectant before I would apply it to the top.

I next proceeded to "paint" the top with the protectant. It applies somewhat white and will dry completely clear. Don't freak out that your messing up the top. It's fine and it's supposed to look white/gray when it's being applied. After doing a full coat onto the top, I wiped the rear glass with a damp microfiber cloth to remove any protectant that I may have gotten on it. Then I went inside for lunch. I waited 20 minutes before I applied the next coat. While I didn't think I was going to have enough for a second coat, the top was much less thirsty when I applied the second coat. I was able to get just barely finished with the second coat before running out of protectant.

Then I moved the car into the sun for the remainder of the day. When I got dark, I wanted to check my work. The top (using a flashlight) looked a much richer and darker black color than before and it felt very clean. I sprinkled some water on it and it beaded off as if the top was freshly waxed paint. Fantastic! The top now looks beautiful and after being in the sun, also feels cooler to the touch. The 303 protectant has UV protection as well as waterproofing qualities.

And that's it. It took me a total of 2 hours of labor to do the project which included the car wash.

Now go protect your tops!

Tools:
Car wash supplies and vacuum
Lint roller
Horsehair brush
Blue painters tape
303 fabric convertible cleaner (Amazon)
303 fabric convertible protectant (Amazon)
Microfiber paint roller
Metal pan
Microfiber towels for cleanup.
Patience

 

It is easy. Did mine last weekend using Raggtop cleaner and protector. I used painter tape and paper to cover the rear window. Used drop cloths and painter tape to cover the balance of the car and widows with tape on the rubber seals. I used the spray from a step ladder in a back and forth sweeping motion from the middle to the edge. I the spread the edges on all sides to add protection to the drip edges. Three coats about 25 minutes apart in my garage which was 65 degrees at the time. Don't do it in temps under 60. The warmer the better. Within 90 minutes the whitish appearance was gone. Had it out today and the top looked great. Washing the car tomorrow so I'm interested in witnessing the results. Top looks like new.

FYI the horse hair brush is the way to go but it can leave a lot of fibres behind so check carefully. The cleaner easily removed a small black mark (perhaps grease) and two nickel sized tree sap stains. Can't even tell they were ever there. I'll likely touch up ever year or so. All three coats done with one spray can. Still some left plus I got an extra can. It's easy DIY if you prep the car properly.

 

I also 303'ed my car also via the more traditional spray method. I agree that concern for my paint was high - I am unsure that the 303 causes any damage, but it certainly doesn't look good on the paint. Despite covering the paint, some spray got through, however between clearing immediately post spray and following up on the small amount of residue afterwards with a waterless cleaner and some elbow grease I arrived at a very tidy result. I've a long New England winter ahead and am confident that the top is now ready - unlike when I bought the car, when it was little more than a sponge.

 

I've used Mueller's technique with 303 twice now, except I didn't do a 2nd coat - good idea. I don't mask anything, I just lower the roof slightly, so it separates from the windshield enough that I can paint it on with a brush without hitting the rubber seal.

And I use a paint brush instead of a roller.

 

Great extra tips. I searched for a while before protecting my top (as this is the first convertible I have owned) and I didn't find anything on here about the process. For all my past cars I always appreciated the content I have found on forums. So when I can't find help on a topic, I like to add to the content available for other fellow owners! Keep the tips coming!

 

The lint roller is a great idea - my horsehair brush sheds a lot, and I've used painter's tape to pick it up.

 

Best not to use soap when cleaning top regularly unless absolutely needed. The waterproofing works better much longer.

 

Do you have to use a horse hair brush? Will a soft nylon brush work for cleaning the top? I don't have an F-Type. I drive a late model XKR.

 

Everything I read suggested that using a horse hair brush is best because it wont scratch the top or upset the fibers of the fabric. The horse hair is pretty soft, but really does a good job lathering up the convertible soap. I guess its up to your judgment but I would recommend the horse hair brush. I bought mine on Amazon for $10.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1