DIY Oil Change with MityVac
#1
DIY Oil Change with MityVac
So... thanks to this forum and other Internet-based DIY instructions, I decided to do an oil change on my '22 P450 at 5K miles (halfway to the 1st dealer-supplied scheduled maintenance). I know that high-grade syn oil can last more miles, but with my sports cars, I try to change the oil at the halfway mark.
Tools
- MityVac Fluid Extractor
- Torque Wrench
- Oil Filter Cap Wrench
Parts
- Mobil 1 Oil ~ 0W-20 (Two 5-quart bottles)
- OEM Oil Filter (w/gasket)
After warming up the engine/oil, took off the engine cover to allow access to the oil filter canister/cap.
Using a regular ratchet wrench and extension, used the 90mm x 15 flute oil cap wrench to remove the oil filter canister/cap and the old filter.
Affixed the larger of the MityVac tubes to the unit and the other end to the small tube in the center of the oil filler tube.
Pumped the MityVac a few times and voila! ~ oil began moving from oil sump to the MityVac. Occasionally had to pump to keep the flow going until I got as much out as I could.
Removed old gasket from oil filter canister/cap; replaced with new. Put a light coating of oil on the new gasket after sliding it on to the cap.
Snapped the new oil filter to the oil filter cap. Note the tabs on the filter and the clip in the cap. You'll hear a distinct "click" when the filter is seated.
Carefully hand-threaded the cap/filter onto the housing and then used the oil cap wrench and a torque wrench to tighten to spec.
Filled with oil... leaving out about 16 oz. Started the engine, ran it for a couple of minutes to get oil circulated and then turned off motor.
Let everything sit for about 10 minutes and then used the dash display oil level indicator to see where the level ended up. It was just a tad under the middle of the scale, so I added another 10 oz. and that got the level to a good level.
Took a flashlight and carefully inspected around the oil filter canister area to see if there were signs of leak.
Took the car out for a short drive. After returning to the garage, let it sit for about 10-15 minutes and then re-checked oil level (dash indicator).
From start to finish, took me about 45 minutes. I suspect the next time will be a tad less now that I've gotten this first one under my belt.
Tools
- MityVac Fluid Extractor
- Torque Wrench
- Oil Filter Cap Wrench
Parts
- Mobil 1 Oil ~ 0W-20 (Two 5-quart bottles)
- OEM Oil Filter (w/gasket)
After warming up the engine/oil, took off the engine cover to allow access to the oil filter canister/cap.
Using a regular ratchet wrench and extension, used the 90mm x 15 flute oil cap wrench to remove the oil filter canister/cap and the old filter.
Affixed the larger of the MityVac tubes to the unit and the other end to the small tube in the center of the oil filler tube.
Pumped the MityVac a few times and voila! ~ oil began moving from oil sump to the MityVac. Occasionally had to pump to keep the flow going until I got as much out as I could.
Removed old gasket from oil filter canister/cap; replaced with new. Put a light coating of oil on the new gasket after sliding it on to the cap.
Snapped the new oil filter to the oil filter cap. Note the tabs on the filter and the clip in the cap. You'll hear a distinct "click" when the filter is seated.
Carefully hand-threaded the cap/filter onto the housing and then used the oil cap wrench and a torque wrench to tighten to spec.
Filled with oil... leaving out about 16 oz. Started the engine, ran it for a couple of minutes to get oil circulated and then turned off motor.
Let everything sit for about 10 minutes and then used the dash display oil level indicator to see where the level ended up. It was just a tad under the middle of the scale, so I added another 10 oz. and that got the level to a good level.
Took a flashlight and carefully inspected around the oil filter canister area to see if there were signs of leak.
Took the car out for a short drive. After returning to the garage, let it sit for about 10-15 minutes and then re-checked oil level (dash indicator).
From start to finish, took me about 45 minutes. I suspect the next time will be a tad less now that I've gotten this first one under my belt.
The following 9 users liked this post by OlyFtype:
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#2
The following users liked this post:
Mark7Seven (11-28-2022)
#5
Nice write up. I too bought a Mityvac and used it to change out the factory fill on my 2021 F Type at around 2750 miles. It was actually a pleasure to do after crawling underneath cars to change the oil the old fashioned way for the last 50 years.
While Mobil 1 Extended Performance synthetic is an excellent oil, and I understand the desire to save some money these days, I don't think it is a good idea to use non-JLR approved oil while the car is under warranty. I had a Blackstone oil analysis done on a sample of the oil from my car and it showed high levels (compared to averages) of titanium as an additive. JLR's engineers apparently feel that the titanium levels are beneficial to that engine. JLR contracts with Castrol to make a special formula of their Edge Professional oil and it is only available at JLR dealerships. It is called Castrol Edge Professional EC5 meeting JLR specification STJLR.03.5006. The last time I bought some it was $12.95 per quart although that was before the huge rise in petroleum prices.
I don't want to seem cavalier with other people's money, but you might consider purchasing the correct oil from your local dealer and doing another change. No need to change the filter of course.
While Mobil 1 Extended Performance synthetic is an excellent oil, and I understand the desire to save some money these days, I don't think it is a good idea to use non-JLR approved oil while the car is under warranty. I had a Blackstone oil analysis done on a sample of the oil from my car and it showed high levels (compared to averages) of titanium as an additive. JLR's engineers apparently feel that the titanium levels are beneficial to that engine. JLR contracts with Castrol to make a special formula of their Edge Professional oil and it is only available at JLR dealerships. It is called Castrol Edge Professional EC5 meeting JLR specification STJLR.03.5006. The last time I bought some it was $12.95 per quart although that was before the huge rise in petroleum prices.
I don't want to seem cavalier with other people's money, but you might consider purchasing the correct oil from your local dealer and doing another change. No need to change the filter of course.
Last edited by Dwight Frye; 09-01-2022 at 09:23 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Dwight Frye:
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OlyFtype (09-01-2022)
#6
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Probably due for replacement anyway, very common for one or both of the two thin plastic tubes on the other end to go brittle and crack/split.
Last edited by OzXFR; 09-03-2022 at 06:46 PM.
#12
It is part number T2R5910 see here: https://britcar.com/product.php/3527..._to_vin_k58712
Probably due for replacement anyway, very common for one or both of the two thin plastic tubes on the other end to go brittle and crack/split.
Probably due for replacement anyway, very common for one or both of the two thin plastic tubes on the other end to go brittle and crack/split.
#13
#14
The following users liked this post:
Mark7Seven (11-28-2022)
#15
The first time I used my Mityvac I tried using the switch to reverse the flow and pump the used oil back out and into a container for recycling. After about a minute I decided that was going to take a long time and require a lot of pumping so I just pulled the stopper on the top that has the lever that you flip to lock it in place, grabbed the Mityvac, turned it upside down and poured the oil out using a wide mouth funnel on the used oil container to catch any splatter.
The weight of the Mityvac and almost 7 quarts of used oil wasn't difficult to handle. But I did work over my trusty old sheet metal drip pan just in case of a spill. It was an easy task.
The weight of the Mityvac and almost 7 quarts of used oil wasn't difficult to handle. But I did work over my trusty old sheet metal drip pan just in case of a spill. It was an easy task.
#16
MityVac connection to oil extraction tube
Hi,
All set to do my first DIY oil change on my ‘19 R. However, I can’t get the MityVac plastic tube to connect to either of the two metal tubes for extraction. I tried modifying one of the rubber adapters that came with the MityVac but can’t get it to slide over the metal tube. The smallest of the MityVac tubes won’t fit into the metal stubs and the largest won’t fit over it.
I’m not sure where I can find a suitable ‘adapter’ between the metal oil tube and the plastic extraction tube. Anyone else have and addressed this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Chris
All set to do my first DIY oil change on my ‘19 R. However, I can’t get the MityVac plastic tube to connect to either of the two metal tubes for extraction. I tried modifying one of the rubber adapters that came with the MityVac but can’t get it to slide over the metal tube. The smallest of the MityVac tubes won’t fit into the metal stubs and the largest won’t fit over it.
I’m not sure where I can find a suitable ‘adapter’ between the metal oil tube and the plastic extraction tube. Anyone else have and addressed this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Chris
Last edited by Crackle; 11-27-2022 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Update
#18
Is it possible my engine isn’t intended to have the oil extracted from the top?
#20
I shall continue my oil change. Hopefully, with no further hiccups.
Thanks again.