That said, as I think about it it makes sense. You would t remove the oil filter to add oil to the engine.

I’m such a noob.

Thanks again.

 

No worries! When I did my first one... all the different supplied tubes confused me to no end! But in the end, it was a fun experience.

 

I’m new to the forum and just picked up a 2017 F type R a few weeks. The forum is great and I wanted to say thanks. I’ve never owned a car with the oil filter on the top of the motor and thanks to the forum I used a Mityvac. It was the cleanest quickest oil change I’ve ever done.

 

One thing to note in the picture with the oil filter removed?
Always check that it holds some oil. If not the check valve has failed and the engine is dry for a few seconds everytime the engine is started. Not good for sure.
I mention it because it has been reported several times that these valves do fail and people have replaced them.
So just a quick easy check to do when changing oil.
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The instructions for doing an oil change on an F Type mention that a few ounces of oil should be poured into the oil filter housing prior to installing the new filter. I add about 4-6 ounces and count that against the total fresh oil that I use for an oil & filter change. I assume that this is to help "prime" the system a little. When using a conventional spin on oil filter I was taught to always pre-fill the new filter and let the oil soak into the pleats before installing it. Since this cannot be done with a cannister filter cartridge pouring some fresh oil into the housing will accomplish the same thing. I also use an accurate torque wrench to install the filter cap according to the specification of 25 Nm or 18.4 ft. lbs.

I'll definitely inspect the housing in the future when doing oil changes. It should still be wet with oil after giving sufficient time for the oil to drain back into the sump. A failed check valve is not a good situation !
Another trick when doing the oil change is to loosen the cap on the filter exactly four turns and also remove the filler cap and then let the warm oil drain back into the sump for a half hour or so prior to starting the extraction with the Mityvac. Loosening the cap on the filter helps the flow back into the sump. The caution regarding exactly four turns is because that is just enough to break the vacuum seal on the filter but if you do more than four turns some oil will leak down around the side of the housing. Ask me how I know.

Using a Mityvac is actually pleasurable, in an almost surgical like way. After 50 some years of crawling around under my vehicles to do oil changes in a conventional way, it is a welcome relief.

 

I have 2 questions: Has anybody measured exactly how much oil was extracted, vs how much the engine needs? Just to know how much dirty oil is being left in the sump. I'd probably alternate one extraction and one normal drain, as you want the deposits at the bottom of the pan drained. My second question is that tube in the middle of the oil fill hole should be intended for a dipstick, so is there one you can buy? I MUCH better measure oil level with a dipstick than those electronic sensors, which are not nearly as accurate in my experience. Thanks.

 

No. It's meant for oil extraction.

 

Oh, okay. So there is a possibility it was designed correctly, and there's a low point on the pan where the tube ends. Out of curiosity, I'd try to lift the car from a central jacking position (if any) once oil is extracted, and open the drain plug, and see how much more oil drains out. Then make the decision if I'd ever do that again or not. Wonder if anybody here has done that. Thanks for the info.

 

Never precisely measured how much oil came out but I have changed the oil at least a dozen times now and every time I have put exactly 7.25 litres back in and never had a problem with either under or over filling and the oil level reading is always exactly on "Max". Many threads and posts around here on how much oil is left in the sump drain vs pump and although no-one has measured it exactly or done a precise comparison the general consensus is that it's the same amount both ways, around 250 ml, coz the bottom of the sump plug hole and the bottom of the oil extraction tube sit much the same height above the bottom of the sump, some 5 or 6 mm.
The question "can I use some sort of dipstick down the oil extraction tube?" has also been asked many many times and the answer is a definite NO as the oil extraction tube has way too many sharp bends in it. Lots of complaints along the lines of "why oh why did JLR go with such a crappy oil level measurement system and scrap the tried and true dipstick?" and the answer is no-one knows and it is what it is, suck it up (no pun intended!) and live with it.

 

Not once but TWICE has the dealer overfilled my F Type R when doing the free scheduled oil & filter changes. I got the Overfilled warning on the dash gauge when I checked the oil level.

I used my Mityvac to extract as much oil as possible, pumping that sucker until it was just air coming out and the plastic tube wasn't showing any oil flow coming out. The last time they did it I extracted 7.2 liters or a little more than 7.5 quarts / 7 quarts 16 oz. (I used a Sharpie to clearly mark graduations on the side of the Mityvac). The specified oil capacity with a new filter is 6.9 quarts so if I figured for a few ounces left in the filter and a few ounces still in the sump they must have added around 7 quarts 24 oz.

I then used the oil in the Mityvac which only had about 50 miles on it and pumped 6 quarts 16 oz. back into the engine. That should have put me just below the 6.9 quarts (6 quarts 28 oz.) required when the oil still in the filter & sump was added to the total.

However....
As we know, Jaguar electronics are wonky. Overfilling the engine did something odd to the electronic oil level gauge. I have tried it using both the average and live settings. Sometimes it reads Overfilled, but within a few seconds the level drops to below the Max graduation on the gauge. Sometimes it just reads just below the Max level. It doesn't seem to matter if I check it stone cold or a half hour after shutting down the engine. In any case, whenever it reads Overfilled it always drops back down within about 5 seconds so I'm not going to worry about it.

And as OzXFR said regarding the car not having a tried and true dipstick, it is what it is.

 

It is also hypersensitive to being on level ground. I've measured it in my driveway which is dead level and it reads up to the full mark and then when parked in my garage (which, like many garages, has the *slightest* of pitch towards the doors so any rain water runs out) it reads overfilled. If I back the car in (so the pitch is the other way), it reads full.

 

I have changed oil in my 2014 XJR both ways. I could not see any difference in the oil removed and since it was posted above to be in the 250ml range I can see why too. Just too small of a difference to see easily.
I only did this because when the cars first came out and everyone was talking about the extraction tube some questioned if the engine even had a drain plug anymore. So I checked and yes it's all still there.

That was the first and last time I changed oil using the drain plug.
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The Mity vac removed a bit over 6.5 Liters of oil.

 

sounds about right. I change my oil every 7500 miles and remove also 6.5 liters. Remember, not uncommon for these engines to consume a little oil. My last 2011 XJ 5.0 had 155,000 miles on it and run perfectly. Alway did the 7500 oil changes with Mobil 1 extended 20k oil. Never had any cam tensioner issues either.