When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
On a recent current thread, I posted problems I ran into while trying to remove the crossmember. Due to the rivot nuts and bolts with stop cuts in them, it was impossible. I was able to tighten the bolts back up and had to figure a way to change the Transfer Case Fluid anyway. Here are my results.
This is for a AWD V-8 F-Type. Right behind the crossmember you will see an aluminum plate protecting wires & plugs. Remove the 3 bolts. With that out of the way you need to disconnect the plugs and pull the plug holders out of the plate. Remove the 2 nuts on the bottom and the bolt on the side (10mm) wrench/socket. Once the plate is out of the way, you will see the Fill plug at the side.
Now for those of you that don’t have a 14mm allen wrench that you can cut up, go to the hardware store and get a Grade 8, 3/8 x 1inch long bolt and 2 grade 8 nuts. (About $1.50) The head of the bolt fits real tight into the drain/fill plugs. I barely skinned each side on my grinder and the fit was perfect. Put on the 2 nuts and lock them together. You will now be able to insert the bolt into the plug and using a 9/16 or 14mm wrench open the fill plug. ( Each plug has a green o-ring, be sure not to lose.)
You use the same bolt set up for the bottom drain plug. Once drained, replace the plugs. Add your 1.06 pts of special gear oil. When replacing, You can use a combination wrench with the box end on the nut, and the open end will fit perfectly onto your ½ drive torque wrench. Torque to 44 ft lbs.
This job is definitely a lot easier if you are able to get your crossmember removed. But for those that can’t or don’t want to, this is the alternative
On a recent current thread, I posted problems I ran into while trying to remove the crossmember. Due to the rivot nuts and bolts with stop cuts in them, it was impossible. I was able to tighten the bolts back up and had to figure a way to change the Transfer Case Fluid anyway. Here are my results.
This is for a AWD V-8 F-Type. Right behind the crossmember you will see an aluminum plate protecting wires & plugs. Remove the 3 bolts. With that out of the way you need to disconnect the plugs and pull the plug holders out of the plate. Remove the 2 nuts on the bottom and the bolt on the side (10mm) wrench/socket. Once the plate is out of the way, you will see the Fill plug at the side.
Now for those of you that don’t have a 14mm allen wrench that you can cut up, go to the hardware store and get a Grade 8, 3/8 x 1inch long bolt and 2 grade 8 nuts. (About $1.50) The head of the bolt fits real tight into the drain/fill plugs. I barely skinned each side on my grinder and the fit was perfect. Put on the 2 nuts and lock them together. You will now be able to insert the bolt into the plug and using a 9/16 or 14mm wrench open the fill plug. ( Each plug has a green o-ring, be sure not to lose.)
You use the same bolt set up for the bottom drain plug. Once drained, replace the plugs. Add your 1.06 pts of special gear oil. When replacing, You can use a combination wrench with the box end on the nut, and the open end will fit perfectly onto your ½ drive torque wrench. Torque to 44 ft lbs.
This job is definitely a lot easier if you are able to get your crossmember removed. But for those that can’t or don’t want to, this is the alternative
Thanks for posting...This is what I was referencing with my pictures in your other post. I assumed it could be done...and you have proven it! I am going to do the transmission at the same time, so if I can get it off as well, I will try this method...If not, I will try to drop the bracket. If I do have to drop it my thought is to back out the bolts as far as I can, and hope they do not bind...If they start to catch, I am going to put 3-in1 or cutting oil on the threads and screw it back in some to oil up the captured nut, then try again?? It may work...who knows.
Well...Got this knocked out today as well as Transmission Fluid change, and installed Sprint Booster Accelerator Pedal device, and it actually works damn well!
On this Transfer case, I went ahead and removed the Tranny Bracket and it came out fine. I sprayed some PB Blaster previously, and then I backed the bolts out until they got snug, then sprayed the threads with some lubricant and ran them back in a bit to lube the threads, and they came out with no issue!. The bolt that goes through the transmission mount is like 10" long and quite a pain to get in and out. I fought for a while, then just loosened the passenger/right Downpipe and swung the pipe down, and used a bar clamp against my lift to hold down the mid-pipe and the bolty went right in! Figured I may as well do the tranny too while there and bought a pan with a replaceable filter. May write a DIY with photos on both if any interest. I took a few photos while doing it in case...
DC
Some pics:
Fluid Used Support Bracket Drain Plug Fill Plug Pans and Bracket removed Bracket Bolts
Glad to see your bolts didn't give you much trouble. The key here is stopping at the snug point, tightening up the bolt and getting it lubricated so it doesn't want to grab and pull the rivot insert through. I'd be Interested in seeing both the Tranny and Accelerator Pedal device. What exactly is the device doing for you??
Last edited by Rondog; 12-20-2020 at 08:39 AM.
Reason: Add content
Glad to see your bolts didn't give you much trouble. The key here is stopping at the snug point, tightening up the bolt and getting it lubricated so it doesn't want to grab and pull the rivot insert through. I'd be Interested in seeing both the Tranny and Accelerator Pedal device. What exactly is the device doing for you??
Thanks...
On the transmission (again, why I decided to remove that bracket, as I do not think you can/could get the pan off with that in the way on one end), I dropped the bracket, drained the fluid, replaced the pan, and filter (bought a pan with a replaceable filter this time), and refilled with ZF Lifeguard 8 spec transmission fluid. It took a bit of doing, but if you follow the directions (all of the web and they vary! ), it is not bad. Many complained about the need to hurry to get the fill in at the right temp (between 30-50 Celcius), I found I actually had to wait. I put a laptop with an HP Tuner cable in the passenger seat and watched the temp through the window while I filled during warm up. I drained while cold after sitting overnight...Filled til overflow, and then lowered the car, cranked, revved for 30 seconds at 2000 RPM to fill Torque Converter, went through all gears 10 seconds each, twice, and then lifted back up (while running) and filled until overflow...Waited until temp was at 31 degrees C and dripping slowed to a small trickle, put the plug back in, and all good. I sifted through all of the various nuances in instructions and stuck to ZF recommendation for the most part. Shifts and runs great! Made a pump also for the fluid, which made the fill go great...total ~ $20 in parts. May write a DIY to have all the CORRECT info in one spot? May do a short one on the Transfer case also?
On Sprint Booster, it plugs into the Pedal Position Sensor under the dash and remaps the electronic signal to the throttle body. Basically for comfort and driveability, the car companies code in a slow/slight delay...so you press the pedal, and there is a map of how quickly the throttle body opens (delayed). This device has various settings, that change how quickly the throttle plate opens. In Race 9 (where mine is), it is like having an old cable...press, and it goes. You can really tell a difference. I actually lower it to Sport 5 for normal peepy driving to ease it up a bit
Here is a good video that explains how it works. I have no affiliation with this company, and there are others like Pedal Commander and others...This one had the best reviews and has been around a while. Was ~$300, so I figured I would try it?
12-15-2020, 02:08 PM
DIY Transfer Case Fluid Change AWD V-8
), it is not bad. Many complained about the need to hurry to get the fill in at the right temp (between 30-50 Celcius), I found I actually had to wait. I put a laptop with an HP Tuner cable in the passenger seat and watched the temp through the window while I filled during warm up. I drained while cold after sitting overnight...Filled til overflow, and then lowered the car, cranked, revved for 30 seconds at 2000 RPM to fill Torque Converter, went through all gears 10 seconds each, twice, and then lifted back up (while running) and filled until overflow...Waited until temp was at 31 degrees C and dripping slowed to a small trickle, put the plug back in, and all good. I sifted through all of the various nuances in instructions and stuck to ZF recommendation for the most part. Shifts and runs great! Made a pump also for the fluid, which made the fill go great...total ~ $20 in parts. May write a DIY to have all the CORRECT info in one spot? May do a short one on the Transfer case also?
