This intake system retains the OEM MAF, and in combination with the O2 sensors, the ECU should continue to work properly and adjust fuel trim, etc.as needed. So I am thinking it should not create any issues. Just FYI.

DC

 

I'm no mechanic, but I don't believe its necessary to tune the car. Stock ECU's can make adjustments for the air intake system, especially if they retain the stock MAF sensor. The effect would be similar to the adjustments the ECU makes for a car in Denver, Colorado and another in San Diego, California. If anything, it would just tell the ECU to add a little more fuel and timing to keep up with the added air.

 

That is only a reliable assumption if you're speaking of N/A tuned vehicles. With N/A tunes, new intakes do not change the intake volume a whole lot, so one can get away with just assuming the ECU will adjust. However, with supercharged/turbocharged vehicles, the simple act of adding an intake will give you wildly different numbers, if not taken into account. Another example would be changing to a high flow cat or a straight pipe. It is why tuners always offer different tunes just based on whether you have a different cat or not, as it changes flow significantly. One can roughly interpret it as "out of bounds" situations where the ECU doesn't have the correct tune for the values being read.

I've never seen Jag's ECU values nor how it is tuned, and it could have very well reserved tune values for larger air intake volume. But speaking out of experience from hand tuning superchargers, you'd at least want to make sure you're not running lean. I sure wouldn't risk it for a car with that kind of dollar on it.

 

I thought that the general consensus was that open air filters in the lower intake have no impact to or may slightly decrease hp on this platform, has this changed? The dv sound is cool, but seems like the Mina gallery metal upper intake pipes can provide this sound as well. Thoughts?

 

Yeah...Still not seeing a problem with these at all. I have had many tuned NA and FI Porsches and BMW's and lots of non-tuned with various mods and never any issues. Again, with the MAF and O2 monitoring the loop of inputs and results, there will be no issue. Luckily this car was about $30K less than my last 911 Turbo But hopefully I won't blow it up!

Thanks for the input and thoughts. Curious how you "hand tune a supercharger" ?

DC

 

You are correct in most cases, because most of the OEM filters sit in the engine compartment and are fed fresh cold air through a special intake. When you remove the shielding and leave an open cone filter in the engine compartment you just suck in more hot air. As IAT increases, most cars will pull timing to try and prevent pre-detonation and you actually lose HP as you suggested. The intakes on this car, however are located in the front bumper cover away from the engine and would be getting fresh cool air. Not saying there are any huge gains, but you should be getting true "cold" air and not retarding timing and losing any HP. Just FY!

DC

 

Probably should look into it before you make such claims. The stock F-type intake isn't the limiting factor as far as airflow goes; for most cars the stock intake isn't the limitation. Aside from eliminating some turbulence, you're not really changing much about the intake system from a flow perspective. Swapping a pre-MAF intake on the F-type, or any other modern vehicle isn't going to exceed the boundaries of what the ECU can accommodate for. Manufacturers have to safeguard against any number of scenarios that could change what parameters the engine sees; example being if one of the intake couplers were to fail and the intake were to become completely open. Could the vehicle benefit from a tune after an intake was added? Maybe... Will the engine suffer if it's not tuned for an intake? No.

 

. If the freer airflow pushes the a/f ratio beyond the boundaries of the mapping’s ability to correct, a code will be thrown along with a check engine light and probably also kick it into limp mode.

 

I have the Mina Gallery intake pipe & the Eventuri intake kit installed on my car. No check engine light issues in 4 1/2 years. The sound is fantastic! I have no idea if there is any increase in power (probably none) as the Eventuri kit was installed as soon I purchased the car. You can hear the whine on light & medium throttle. The car has the VAP exhaust so with the valves open all you hear is exhaust. Highly recommenced this upgrade!

 

At first, I thought the MINA tube made no difference in the SC whine level ( I hardly ever drive at light to medium throttle). The VAP exhaust sound is great, but louder than the hammers hell under full throttle.

 

So I just wrapped up one side in the v6 with the yellow wolf intake and honestly not that bad, I had to get reducing couplers which worked just fine when I wrap up the other side I’ll dig up the size I got.

 

Looks good! This might be completely different for the V6, but for the V8 I used the other little metal brace for that side. When I was installing, it seemed like the flat ended side of the metal brace (that screws into the MAF bracket) fit a lot better up against the MAF bracket. I didn't realize it until I did the other side though..

Here is a picture of what I am talking about, hope that makes sense.



here's a photo

 

You may want to consider one of these filter covers as this sits way down & is exposed. I used one on the custom intake we made for my XKR.
https://www.knfilters.com/search/wra...QaAiCcEALw_wcB

 

ah it came with one I just didn’t throw it on in the picture yet but I did before I buttoned up. SO notes to this related to the video posted. Yes this install is kinda a pain in the behind and yes DEFINITELY heat up the upper tubes that you connect the metal intake piping to, at some point I’m gonna have to re do this to really get it seated well because I was getting frustrated lol but also with the reducing couplers to connect the maf to the intake pipe the fit is very tight so I had to use needle nose pliers to stretch it around the maf (atleast I know that’s seated well). Also to connect the fine filter to the maf I just put it straight on The maf while leaving the previous gasket on which yes was loose but after tightening down the clamp formed a good seal WITH the gasket on, if this becomes a issue I will buy a different size cone filter which should fix that problem. Lastly I know v6 intakes aren’t supposed to use the bracket like the v8 does but I felt a lot more comfortable with it because it really held it in place so I bent the metal bracket it came with so I could have it be held up in place. Butt dyno results tell me better throttle response but that could just be my head telling me to feel something for the work I put in haha

SO final thoughts: if/when I have to re do this I would take the time to heat the upper plastic more, I would buy the correct size cone filters and I would jack up both sides.

I got 2.5” to 3.25” reducing couplers but it may not hurt to also order ones that are a little bit bigger on the 2.5” side so you’ll it won’t be as hard to put it on. I should’ve done this, and then with the cone filter I would’ve just did a trial probably 2.75 maybe would be better.

 

It looks like you have the brackets on the wrong side. The bracket should be wrapping around the MAF housing, like in the video/images

 

i know they’re on wrong lol I did that because I didn’t keep the original orientation of the maf so it didn’t line up, that’s why I just decided to bend it the way I needed it.

edit: wait me or from the video LOL cause I’m pretty sure I put mine wrong too but for a reason

 

Okay, understood. Just curious, what was the reason for not orienting the MAF so the bracket would sit flush around the housing? The bracket should also be on the filter side of the MAF flange, so as to support it.

 

Honestly me being dumb to me proceeding to be lazy lmao but the kit itself was designed well in my opinion, all my qualms were with the "user/installer(me)"

 

No problem! I've been there so many times. Hopefully the image above helps next time you're able to get under the car. Honestly you could hold this thing up with zipties if you really wanted to.

 

Yeah that's what I meant though. If it comes to the point where it throws a CEL (and I'm not saying it would), why would you risk going that far? By then it could have been just a bad reading, limp mode, or in the worst case, maybe a few knocks.

If it works then everyone's happy. Personally I never added anything to a boosted car without tuning or checking a/f first before going WOT. I'm just the cautious type, having tuned a number of cars on the dyno and on the road, but I could very well be wrong here. I would love to make my s/c whine louder too without worrying about repercussions. Hopefully it works well for everyone.