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No oil additives - NOT GOOD and not needed
Every 3000-5000 miles Redline S1 in the fuel. It works WELL. I checked with an endo camera before and after a tankful with it. Piston heads look like new after. While speculative, I see a 4-5hp at the wheel gain after a tank. BUT this can be within the Dyno error and while at the same temperature/humidity, engine temp can affect it as well. I would check the cats but I don't have them on my cars.
MOS2 goes in to thicken the oil and reduce friction.
If thicker oil was called for, why not just use a different engine oil viscosity? Make sure you are not causing harm with oil additives that reduce flow and may form deposits.
If thicker oil was called for, why not just use a different engine oil viscosity? Make sure you are not causing harm with oil additives that reduce flow and may form deposits.
I’d be more worried about the oil being too thick for the variable valve train to operate properly.
I’d be more worried about the oil being too thick for the variable valve train to operate properly.
It is a never ending debate, but I prefer wear protection over gas mileage. Castrol says their 0W-20 weight is to extend gas mileage. They recommend 10W-60 weight in high stress supercars and say it is suitable for everyday driving. The F-Type runs notoriously hot.
I use Royal Purple 5W-30 cuz I live in a hot climate I've seen RP transform previous cars of mine, so what do I know? 🙄 I have considered going with Edge Supercar due to the engine heat.
https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united...rformance.html
I think that the conundrum with our Jaguar engines are the demands of the variable valve system and performance. Hence, the Jag spec demands a 'thin' oil that 'protects' well.
I understand the confusion. On Honda engines the factory recommends 0W-20 for 'common' models but 5W-30 for 'performance' variants that they know will be thrashed. I bet they have RacerX's picture on the wall for inspiration.
Maybe I don't understand modern engine machining, but I believe oil viscosity is directly related to tolerances. If you put 15w50 oil into F-type I am all but certain you will end up with a dead engine - it won't provide sufficient lubrication for designed tolerances. Now, I don't know the consequences of using 5w30 oil in applications calling for 0w20 - likely nothing, but it still a risk (if only of the risk of unknown).
When you compare 'common' to 'performance' Honda engines, they are not the same engine manufactured to the same spec.
Maybe I don't understand modern engine machining, but I believe oil viscosity is directly related to tolerances. If you put 15w50 oil into F-type I am all but certain you will end up with a dead engine - it won't provide sufficient lubrication for designed tolerances. Now, I don't know the consequences of using 5w30 oil in applications calling for 0w20 - likely nothing, but it still a risk (if only of the risk of unknown).
When you compare 'common' to 'performance' Honda engines, they are not the same engine manufactured to the same spec.
SIGH another OIL discussion.
Some Honda engines (Civic SI compared to 'normal') are the same, but with different oil specs. (I was called out on this once.)
Tolerances DO play a part...but again using Honda as an example, they spec 0W-20 in the USA but up to 10W-40 in warmer markets. Same VTEC hardware.
Another example: The Toyota engines used in S2 Lotus Elises spec'd 5W-20 oil in Celicas, but Lotus recommended 5W-40 in their cars (and they never modified ANY of the internals, just ECU programming).
I don't think that any of us laymen could measure a difference in engine performance or wear over the life of our engines, especially with one grade difference. Look at some of the Blackstone results on BobIsTheOilGuy...some oils 'thin down' over time (especially when used in GDI engines), others don't. My belief is that the Titanium spec from Jaguar is an attempt to mitigate these issues.
Hey, I'm an enthusiast, and I change our oil myself every year (5000 miles last year), no dealer is going to use Bulk Oil in OUR engine.