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Sun came out a bit today, though very cold still ~30's F. So I was out and had my Dragy with me. I found a pretty flat road out of the way and with no traffic, and started trying different launches. I think I did about 10 or so pretty close together. My best 0-60 1 foot roll was 3.17 seconds and 1/8 of 7.42 - Not much room for that one...
After the runs, I started heading back home and could feel what felt like a knocking/loose bracket clunk in the gearshift handle, and when I would accelerate. Also, knowing I just changed all of the fluids (though I have driven it quite a bit since with no issues) I thought I better see if I possibly left something loose. I put it up on the lift and checked everything and nothing is loose or leaking? So I released the parking brake and started rolling the wheels back and forth pretty hard (front and rear wheels) and could hear a clunk from the transfer case area...
So I let it cool down and took it for a ride and it was not making the noise, or feeling shaky, etc..?
So I am wondering if you can overheat these Transfer cases? It seems OK now, though it had only cooled for a short while and did not want to stomp it as much again. Curious if anyone else has had this issue or heard of it. I either overheated it (and it sounded pretty bad), and it is fine now after cooling back down, or I destroyed it and will have to find another one and replace it?? Hoping for A. If I need to replace I will not be buying from Jaguar - $7400 list!! Given my mods, I doubt a dealer will warranty it but may try that too if it is destroyed...
Pretty good times below for 30's and short runway!
OK folks....I have a huge issue with people who start threads, go down a path with the issues, like a suspense movie, and then never close the loop...So I am not going to do that on my thread!
So every time I took my car out to test drive, it would run great, and then after various amounts of time would start making that horrible grinding noise I posted in the MP3's above. I shifted, started, stopped, etc. to the point I felt I had ruled out front differential, rear differential, and the transmission. So on to the transfer case. The sound was very loud when it would occur, but was not always there...sometimes I would drive for 20+ minutes with hard acceleration...then it would return. It seemed to change with acceleration and sounded like metal scraping, a chain slipping over a gear, or something similar. It also seemed to do it when I put it in Rain/Snow and forced the front drive shaft to engage...
To be safe (and Jaguar Roadside Assistance was great!) I called JLR and they had it towed on a flatbed ~45 miles to the closest dealer(the dealer also replaced my driver window and trim under warranty due to scratches BTW). So they took several drives and nothing. Several days, and they called and asked if I wanted to come and try it...So I did. The level 5 Master Tech was super nice and went on a 35 minute Mr. Toads Wild Ride with me and was a great sport. No noise though! As we pulled back into the dealership I stopped and accelerated a few more times …and the noise started...He heard it and now could do something about it. So we pulled back out and he started recording with his phone. We both thought "damn! That sounds serious and bad!". He agreed it was coming from transfer case area and felt my assessment was likely correct...
So I left and he put it on the rack and started checking for software, and/or physical problems. And it all seemed to be OK? So he started looking around and banging and pulling on things under the car...more test drives...put a tech in the car up on the lift etc.
Finally! It was several things and nothing serious at all (two weeks now BTW). Apparently a Heat Shield started coming loose, and resting on the Transfer case in one spot...AND on the driveshaft in another...So you can imagine how loud that was! So he fixed those issues...More test drive. More noise??? Back on the rack with tech in car....And found that the VAP Cats/downpipes do not have the slight bend (up) as the OEMS, and over time the mid pipe sagged, causing it to rattle loudly against the support plate, and also was rubbing in the rear, where that cross member that rusts is located...Only problem is...he cannot fix that. I am going to work on it and he "Unofficially (did not)" give me some suggestions of things to try. So you are probably thinking I installed the Cats wrong....He said they looked perfect, and if I pushed them up anymore they would likely rattle under the car...they need to be bent, or otherwise move other parts of the exhaust a bit.
So why did it not do it all of the time? We/He felt that it was heat related. Once the exhaust got warm, it expanded, and/or the hangers stretched a bit (talking 1/16-1/8 inch) and allowed the heat shield to move and also started rubbing on the cross plate.
I was very relieved as you may imagine, and also went ahead and had an All Wheel Alignment while it was there, since I recently got new tires...
I have to say the guys at the dealership were awesome and car enthusiasts. They even called me when they saw the Water/Meth tubes...And I thought, "Oh Sh@t...here we go!"....And then the tech said..." Hey, I don't care man...I just did not want to hook up my devices and cause an issue if your car is tuned for that"...Then I grabbed a spatula and picked my jaw up off of the desk They also loved how loud the car was and mentioned it every time I spoke to them. They kept the car INSIDE the entire two weeks (I know cuz I have my InControl Remote...and they said they did...)
So I am a big fan of these guys, and really appreciate what they did for me.
Kept car 2 weeks (Inside), Gave me a new F-Pace Loaner, paid the tow, rode with me and test drove and worked on it for the whole time, put new glass and trim in and aligned it, and put Super Unleaded fuel in for me for a total bill of $220.00...And if that wasn't enough...When he was giving me the key, he said...seems like this FOB battery might be low...hang on. And he put a new battery in for me!
So now I just have to fiddle a bit with the exhaust...But ironically for the full 45 mile ride home and a couple of stops, it made 0 noise!
Sun came out a bit today, though very cold still ~30's F. So I was out and had my Dragy with me. I found a pretty flat road out of the way and with no traffic, and started trying different launches. I think I did about 10 or so pretty close together. My best 0-60 1 foot roll was 3.17 seconds and 1/8 of 7.42 - Not much room for that one...
After the runs, I started heading back home and could feel what felt like a knocking/loose bracket clunk in the gearshift handle, and when I would accelerate. Also, knowing I just changed all of the fluids (though I have driven it quite a bit since with no issues) I thought I better see if I possibly left something loose. I put it up on the lift and checked everything and nothing is loose or leaking? So I released the parking brake and started rolling the wheels back and forth pretty hard (front and rear wheels) and could hear a clunk from the transfer case area...
So I let it cool down and took it for a ride and it was not making the noise, or feeling shaky, etc..?
So I am wondering if you can overheat these Transfer cases? It seems OK now, though it had only cooled for a short while and did not want to stomp it as much again. Curious if anyone else has had this issue or heard of it. I either overheated it (and it sounded pretty bad), and it is fine now after cooling back down, or I destroyed it and will have to find another one and replace it?? Hoping for A. If I need to replace I will not be buying from Jaguar - $7400 list!! Given my mods, I doubt a dealer will warranty it but may try that too if it is destroyed...
Pretty good times below for 30's and short runway!
DC
Surely, it must be something wrong if a bit of heavy footed activity causes transfer case noises. Don’t automatically assume your warranty won’t cover it. Let them deny the claim before you self impose the cost.
Surely, it must be something wrong if a bit of heavy footed activity causes transfer case noises. Don’t automatically assume your warranty won’t cover it. Let them deny the claim before you self impose the cost.
Yes...Thanks. I will sure give it a shot if needed. I have taken it out several times and driven fairly hard a few times, and nothing abnormal again? I do have the VAP TCM tune I recently installed too, as well as a bunch of other stuff.
When I pull the wheels back and forth (in the air)...There seems to be a good bit of slack in the TC? There is an SDD Rest after TC Oil change reset, I may try tomorrow...it is listed in the procedure?
Hopefully, it won't come back. When I first put the VAP Transmission Tune on and went out to do some tests...It went completely into LIMP mode, and would not go in to park or even turn off...It was crazy. Luckily I had the Laptop connected and HPTuner Scan running and had to reset/clear the TCM, then kill it and restart. Not sure what I could have done if I did not have the DX running. I was by myself (as usual), so without Park, could not get out of the car, and could not kill the engine It has been fine since...Just weird.
Just a WAG but if something actually broke, I would think there would be evidence in the oil.
What about draining the TC and inspecting the oil ?
Also if you did overheat the TC, I would think it would damage the oil and you would want to change it out anyway.
Just a WAG but if something actually broke, I would think there would be evidence in the oil.
What about draining the TC and inspecting the oil ?
Also if you did overheat the TC, I would think it would damage the oil and you would want to change it out anyway.
MM
Thanks...Yes...I may try that. Have to find/order some more fluid first And it is not making any noise now...So odd. I sure hope these TC are not so weak, a couple of launches destroys them. I already started looking at newer 991 (do not like the 992) Turbo S's again yesterday...Just planning ahead. If this thing is going to break when I run it, I will fix it once and get rid of it, and get another Porsche. I love the looks and sound (and paid cash), but can't deal with a weak link...(If that is the case).
May also try to get into a dealer...Never done that
Thanks...Yes...I may try that. Have to find/order some more fluid first And it is not making any noise now...So odd. I sure hope these TC are not so weak, a couple of launches destroys them. I already started looking at newer 991 (do not like the 992) Turbo S's again yesterday...Just planning ahead. If this thing is going to break when I run it, I will fix it once and get rid of it, and get another Porsche. I love the looks and sound (and paid cash), but can't deal with a weak link...(If that is the case).
May also try to get into a dealer...Never done that
Hi...Thanks for checking. Unfortunately, it runs OK for a bit, and then makes a grinding/scraping, knocking noise. I was trying to log some Transmission info on the HPTuner Scanner, and it will not read any transmission info....everything else but that. I have now noticed it even does it while at a stop, so I am thinking it is NOT the rear Diff or Transfer Case, as I would think they would be idle at park or stopped. It will run fine and shift smoothly for a bit, and then start making noise again. And then stop again
I am at a loss. I am wondering if that transmission tune from VAP changed something (why I can no longer read the TCM)? And/or allowed it to stress enough to damage the Torque Converter? That is my guess now (Torq. Conv.) since it rattles when stopped?
Going to try to "un-tune" everything I can, and have an appt. at the dealer for 11/11 to check it out and have a flatbed to bring it (45 miles) as I do not trust it, and it is n the 20's out now.
I Will update you when I have news for others. I have an email to VAP to help get it as close to stock as possible before the dealer has it so they do not brick any modules.
Hi...Thanks for checking. Unfortunately, it runs OK for a bit, and then makes a grinding/scraping, knocking noise. I was trying to log some Transmission info on the HPTuner Scanner, and it will not read any transmission info....everything else but that. I have now noticed it even does it while at a stop, so I am thinking it is NOT the rear Diff or Transfer Case, as I would think they would be idle at park or stopped. It will run fine and shift smoothly for a bit, and then start making noise again. And then stop again
I am at a loss. I am wondering if that transmission tune from VAP changed something (why I can no longer read the TCM)? And/or allowed it to stress enough to damage the Torque Converter? That is my guess now (Torq. Conv.) since it rattles when stopped?
Going to try to "un-tune" everything I can, and have an appt. at the dealer for 11/11 to check it out and have a flatbed to bring it (45 miles) as I do not trust it, and it is n the 20's out now.
I Will update you when I have news for others. I have an email to VAP to help get it as close to stock as possible before the dealer has it so they do not brick any modules.
More to come....??
DC
Dang.....fingers crossed the dealer will warranty for you.
From what I have read the ZF trans is pretty darn bulletproof in stock form, so I would also be suspicious of the tune also.
MM
I'm experiencing a bit of oddness with the VAP TCU tune as well. My car will not upshift at high RPM. It never hits the rev limiter, nor redlines but will stay pegged at 7000 without upshifting. Your story has inspired me to flash back to stock. Keep us posted.
I'm experiencing a bit of oddness with the VAP TCU tune as well. My car will not upshift at high RPM. It never hits the rev limiter, nor redlines but will stay pegged at 7000 without upshifting. Your story has inspired me to flash back to stock. Keep us posted.
Apologies if this seems insulting, but .... are you in manual (i.e. using the paddles)? In S with the paddles the autobox won't upshift for you, manual means manual!
Apologies if this seems insulting, but .... are you in manual (i.e. using the paddles)? In S with the paddles the autobox won't upshift for you, manual means manual!
How dare you! lol Sadly, this condition happens in Sport mode and out. As a matter of fact, it will auto shift through the gears until you put the foot down then it downshifts and revs to 7k and that's all she wrote. Normally I would expect to see the the gear number flash on the display urging me to shift manually if I was near redline and the car would let me exceed 7k.. This no longer happens. Its just happy to stay in gear at 7k. No flashy lights.
Thanks all for your positive wishes. I am going to assume it is something serious as it does not sound good. Hopefully, VAP will call me next week when they re-open and help me get it flashed back also. If it does turn out to be something with that tune of the TCM, I would think a refund would be the least they could do. I have purchased just about every F-Type item they sell... I have a feeling the Dealer is going to give me the finger(spiritually) on warranty, based on the fact the Service advisor already told me JLR denied a Differential claim because the owner had non-OEM wheels/tires?
It is odd that I cannot even connect to the TCM now to even monitor or check the temperature, to re-check the fluid. Also strange how it runs perfectly for a bit and after a few harder accelerations it starts making that noise and grinding. I usually drive it slow if it starts making noise, and after I turn it off and start again, it runs smoothly again (for a while).
Very frustrating on many fronts. I will keep this thread updated to the extent I can and have info...
I assume of interest would be:
What the issue is / noise / problem
If VAP Tune caused it (Interested in any others with the TCM Tune??)
If it is the Tune, does VAP help me out with the problems?
Will Dealer cover under warranty
Can I connect to the TCM again after the tune?
How much to repair if not covered
....And finally depending on the outcome and cost, do I try to sell it as is, take a bath, and go get a 991 TT...or just use my Jeep Sahara, which always starts and runs perfectly
I have priced the New ZF Tranny from the JLR parts catalog, and it is ~$18K!! I could almost buy an older V6 for not much more. The e-Diffs are ~$7000 +. So with two issues, it would be close to being a salvage.
Well..Hoping and praying I can get it resolved reasonably. Appreciate the support and concern. Be careful with yours until we find out more!
I'm experiencing a bit of oddness with the VAP TCU tune as well. My car will not upshift at high RPM. It never hits the rev limiter, nor redlines but will stay pegged at 7000 without upshifting. Your story has inspired me to flash back to stock. Keep us posted.
Thought about doing the cap tune, thinking less now.
I'm experiencing a bit of oddness with the VAP TCU tune as well. My car will not upshift at high RPM. It never hits the rev limiter, nor redlines but will stay pegged at 7000 without upshifting. Your story has inspired me to flash back to stock. Keep us posted.
Did you update your ECU software at the same time as the TCU software was flashed? If not, this is likely the source of the problem.
Have you reached out to Chris to troubleshoot the issue? If not I would reach out to him to see if he can troubleshoot it for you.
Did you update your ECU software at the same time as the TCU software was flashed? If not, this is likely the source of the problem.
Have you reached out to Chris to troubleshoot the issue? If not I would reach out to him to see if he can troubleshoot it for you.
Hi Stuart...
I pretty much bought every Jaguar update you have. I do not know if the tune would be making this mechanical knocking problem I am having (but that would be great if it is!). You and I emailed today, after my emails from last week when you were closed, and I am waiting for some guidance from Chris.
To answer your question...I bought the tune and crank pulley first. Then got the TCU tune later...Then got the 200 cell cats and downpipe....then another ECU tune for the CEL for the O2 sensors caused by the Cats....I believe that is the order. Also springs and a Datalogger unrelated...
What is odd now, is I cannot even get the HP Tuner Scanner cable to read anything from the TCU/TCM. Was trying to monitor some variables and at least check the temperature to check the fluid level again, and it will read about every PID, but not one from the transmission.
I will take ownership for being too dumb to understand it, or perhaps using it wrong? Looking forward to hearing from Chris per my prior emails, and appreciate any assistance. Flatbed to the dealer next Monday, so hoping to remove as many reasons to deny my warranty as possible.
Symptoms to date.
The first day I got TCU Tune, I took it out and did a few 0-60's and it went into LIMP MODEto the point it would not go in to Park, and I could not turn off the engine...Thank God, I had the HP Tuner Scan tool and laptop connected and cleared the TCU errors, and it let me turn off and restart the car.
Then drove very little due to the cold...and then it warmed up a bit...So I took it out and tried a few more 0-60's and just general acceleration to see how it shifted. On my way home, I thought all was good...Stopped at the light and heard the knocking clunking noise while stopped with my foot on the brake...when I eased off very slowly to get on side roads to make it home, it was making a rattling/scraping sound. Looked under care when I got home, as it sounded like something was loose...nothing...cranked up and no more knocking? Then after I took it on the Interstate...and pulled off and stopped, more knocking?
Very strange, but there it is...Hoping to get it resolved and fixed, but feeling a little concerned at this point.
Thanks, I appreciate and will look forward to the help and will report back as I have in the past. I am always hopeful to help others on the forums to the extent I can.
DC
I pretty much bought every Jaguar update you have. I do not know if the tune would be making this mechanical knocking problem I am having (but that would be great if it is!). You and I emailed today, after my emails from last week when you were closed, and I am waiting for some guidance from Chris.
To answer your question...I bought the tune and crank pulley first. Then got the TCU tune later...Then got the 200 cell cats and downpipe....then another ECU tune for the CEL for the O2 sensors caused by the Cats....I believe that is the order. Also springs and a Datalogger unrelated...
What is odd now, is I cannot even get the HP Tuner Scanner cable to read anything from the TCU/TCM. Was trying to monitor some variables and at least check the temperature to check the fluid level again, and it will read about every PID, but not one from the transmission.
I will take ownership for being too dumb to understand it, or perhaps using it wrong? Looking forward to hearing from Chris per my prior emails, and appreciate any assistance. Flatbed to the dealer next Monday, so hoping to remove as many reasons to deny my warranty as possible.
Symptoms to date.
The first day I got TCU Tune, I took it out and did a few 0-60's and it went into LIMP MODEto the point it would not go in to Park, and I could not turn off the engine...Thank God, I had the HP Tuner Scan tool and laptop connected and cleared the TCU errors, and it let me turn off and restart the car.
Then drove very little due to the cold...and then it warmed up a bit...So I took it out and tried a few more 0-60's and just general acceleration to see how it shifted. On my way home, I thought all was good...Stopped at the light and heard the knocking clunking noise while stopped with my foot on the brake...when I eased off very slowly to get on side roads to make it home, it was making a rattling/scraping sound. Looked under care when I got home, as it sounded like something was loose...nothing...cranked up and no more knocking? Then after I took it on the Interstate...and pulled off and stopped, more knocking?
Very strange, but there it is...Hoping to get it resolved and fixed, but feeling a little concerned at this point.
Thanks, I appreciate and will look forward to the help and will report back as I have in the past. I am always hopeful to help others on the forums to the extent I can.
DC
Hi DC,
I was directing that question towards the other poster who said their car would not shift at redline, because that's exactly what would be expected if the TCU upgrade was performed, with increased RPM limit but the ECU software was not altered at the same time.
I've been in correspondence with you via Email and Chris is/should be shortly as well so will continue to respond to you there. We'll get to the bottom of it.
I was directing that question towards the other poster who said their car would not shift at redline, because that's exactly what would be expected if the TCU upgrade was performed, with increased RPM limit but the ECU software was not altered at the same time.
I've been in correspondence with you via Email and Chris is/should be shortly as well so will continue to respond to you there. We'll get to the bottom of it.
Sun came out a bit today, though very cold still ~30's F. So I was out and had my Dragy with me. I found a pretty flat road out of the way and with no traffic, and started trying different launches. I think I did about 10 or so pretty close together. My best 0-60 1 foot roll was 3.17 seconds and 1/8 of 7.42 - Not much room for that one...
After the runs, I started heading back home and could feel what felt like a knocking/loose bracket clunk in the gearshift handle, and when I would accelerate. Also, knowing I just changed all of the fluids (though I have driven it quite a bit since with no issues) I thought I better see if I possibly left something loose. I put it up on the lift and checked everything and nothing is loose or leaking? So I released the parking brake and started rolling the wheels back and forth pretty hard (front and rear wheels) and could hear a clunk from the transfer case area...
So I let it cool down and took it for a ride and it was not making the noise, or feeling shaky, etc..?
So I am wondering if you can overheat these Transfer cases? It seems OK now, though it had only cooled for a short while and did not want to stomp it as much again. Curious if anyone else has had this issue or heard of it. I either overheated it (and it sounded pretty bad), and it is fine now after cooling back down, or I destroyed it and will have to find another one and replace it?? Hoping for A. If I need to replace I will not be buying from Jaguar - $7400 list!! Given my mods, I doubt a dealer will warranty it but may try that too if it is destroyed...
Pretty good times below for 30's and short runway!
DC
wow. Impressive. My buddy just leased the top of the line bmw claiming 3.2 0-60. He says only thing faster is tesla. I will show him. Way to go and hell yeah for jaguar
12-26-2020, 02:39 PM
Dragy Times - And Transfer Case
