Sorry to hear bud. I hope it's not the transmission. That's what I'm assuming it is with the info you are providing... Best of luck to you. Hope its just the tune.

 

Hey Stewart,

Yep, I flashed the ECU as well as the TCU. I'm in touch w Chris via email. Thanks for the reply.

 

Thanks for your concern and wishes... ...I hope not too.

I will say, if you do have a problem with yours, I would not expect much help. After all of my questions and concerns expressed starting via emails etc...I got this response today: (left off the names etc., as I am not trying to bash anyone...Just very disappointing).

"I’m unaware of any trans issues on the tune. If there’s forum post, please provide me with the link. Unless I’m informed of any concerns or issues, I wouldn’t ever know the concerns to address...
The TCU file to flash it stock would be the file you initially sent me for the TCU edit. I’ve attached the stock file you sent me, Follow the same process of flashing the mod file, just substituting with the stock file."

Maybe I am just expecting too much ...Don't know? I will keep you all posted, to hopefully see what is going on with my car, why, and how much it is going to cost me. (Pretty sure I will be denied by warranty...but will have to get to dealer for help with Dx)

I likely won't be doing anything else to the car for a while or posting any DIY's or updates until or if I get this resolved.

You all take care...and be careful.
DC

 

Probably not related, but a few folks on the XE forum had trouble loading TCM files, and figured out a work-around...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post2337478

 

That’s certainly worth a try. Much like the battery reset, this may be one of those Jag eccentricities.

 

Hey guys, thanks a bunch for the support. Getting very frustrating at this point.

Update:
As you might expect, I went and flashed the ECU back to stock, and had no issues (other than the CEL as expected, which is supposed to go off after X starts)....Still on currently.

When I went to do the TCU Flash...Just like others in your link (thanks BTW), it would not write to the car!! I had a ~250 Mps Internet Connection, Battery on a Charger @ 13.6 Volts steady, and completely updated HP Windows 10 Laptop. Connected to the car with the original file, with no issues...Then clicked "WRITE", and it must have taken 10+ tries before I could get it to stop timing out. I followed directions exactly many times with no luck. After a few "Timeout" errors, I even got the "unlicensed vehicle" error too. I began trying the Start button press at various times and it FINALLY wrote to completion and was green to close...

Not sure why so many issues trying to write to the TCU/TCM with this thing, but very concerning. If/When I get the issue figured out and/or fixed, I will decide what course I am going to take with/about the TCU tune. Not very happy with it at this point. And I am wondering if this has something to do with me not being to connect anything to read any settings from the transmission (e.g. Need to monitor the temperature so I can chack fluid level again).

Next, I am going to check the Trans Fluid again before sending it to the Dealer...And connect SDD to see what all it may show?? Then Monday, I will FlatBed to Dealer (about 45 miles away), and wait stressfully to see how much this is going to cost me

More to come if/when I have any updates, including and up to...."Hey guys, check out my 991 Turbo S I just bought " Hopefully not, as I like the car a lot...

DC

EDIT; May start a new thread with a better title for where the topic has gone...so people can find it later if they are having issues.?

 

dc, I may be new to this forum but noticed you are a great contributor to this site. I hope you can figure your issue out and keep the f type but I know you also came from Porsche prior and really can't go wrong with those cars either (was looking at 911's when cross shopping against the f type myself). good luck and keep us updated.

 

Thanks a bunch! Appreciate the support and good wishes...

DC

 

OK...Monday the car goes to the dealer and we will see what the $Damage$ is. For those that like to partner on issues or problem solve, I welcome support or arguments to my efforts to narrow down the issue...Also MP3s of the noise m my phone recording to assist.

So I got the car all de-tuned/modded the best I can for the dealer. Chris at VAP has now reached out to me and offered some good info to assist with what I should do to prep etc...

So after I got everything like I wanted, I decided to take it for a drive, since it already seems broken, to see if I could figure what scenario caused issues, and I think I did it?

I drove around a bit and accelerated a few times, and drove in and out of my neighborhood (so not so far to push if it broke)...Got some crazy looks too...
I drove a bunch...no noise....Parked...Let sit...Fired up and drove some more...no issues???

So I decided to pop it into Rain/Snow mode as I figured that forces the transaxle to split the drive power front and rear. As soon as I put it in R/S mode, I got a scraping/clunking noise. I edited the audio so hopefully, you can hear it, as that exhaust (even in quiet mode) is very Bassy!

If I take it out of R/S and do not accelerate hard, no noise...It shifts smooth and fast, up and down in manual or in auto mode. Don't hear any whining from the rear diff or other noise from back there.

I could be wrong, but I am thinking it is the T/Case now again...Only makes noise when it appears to be trying to send power to front wheels, and the noise sounds like it is coming from under the console (where the TC is)

Would love to hear your thoughts/assessment of my theory and the sound in the MP3s.

More to come...I am thinking if it is the TC, and the dealer won't warranty, I can likely change that myself?? I have another lift (2 post) coming Monday to add to the garage Maybe I am being too optimistic...

DC

 

My XE AWD has an ‘ASL Info’ screen (something like that) which shows a dynamic graphic, showing how much power is going to front vs. rear. Might be helpful, if you have a screen like that.

 

Hmm, that's interesting. So here is the first thing that jumped into my head (sorry stuff bounces around in there all the time with little rhyme or reason).
Now that your trans is de-tuned, it behaves normally but when you use rain/snow it behaves the same as when it was tuned, correct?
I assume that the rain/snow setting is basically a different set of parameters activated in the TCM software (a tune), this would make me think that somehow the VAP tune was causing the TC to behave as if it was in rain/snow mode.
Again, just an assumption but I would think that using rain/snow mode on dry roads under hard acceleration would damage the T/Case since that mode assumes foul weather, low speeds and a lot of tire slippage.
Need to do some research on if the stock TCM tune will protect the T/Case if you were to accidentally run your car in rain/snow mode. I doubt JLR would allow the car to stay in that mode unless certain parameters were being monitored (slippage, torque vectoring etc.)
Just some initial thought, no data or facts.
MM

 

To clarify....I do not think the TCU Tune/de-Tune had any effect on the issue. I had not tried the Rain/Snow mode while it was tuned. I was just trying various things after I de-tuned it before it went to the dealer. I stumbled on the issue just trying different variables. Tuned or de-tuned, it would drive perfectly fine and then the noise would start randomly and go away...I could not figure out how it could accelerate and shift perfectly and then make that noise?? So figured, force it to transfer power to the front by R/S mode...As soon as I put it in that mode, it immediately started groaning and grinding.

Hope that helps...

DC

 

certainly sounds like a transfer case or front driveline universal issue.

 

Yes. Thanks, I agree. Pretty sure TC based on the sound and feel coming from the middle of the car...Near the storage compartment...None of the options are good ones...But at least I think I know what it is. If it is not covered by warranty, I have found a few around (seems to be shared with other models, and I ting it is made by Borg-Warner?). Not sure what a dealer would try to gouge me for a new one?

I have looked at images carefully, and I think I may be able to install a new T/C if needed, or I think any transmission shop could do it pretty easily. I got a quote from the best one around our area, and the labor would be ~$950. My second (2 post) lift will be here Monday, but then have to install it, so maybe I will just pay to have it done

I will update when I find out more. I ow have to get it towed 45 miles Monday without any damage...Step 1!

DC

 

Ahh, my mistake, didn’t get that.
Fingers still crossed the dealer covers it under warranty but sounds like your working on a solid “plan B”.
With your new lift and a little help I have no doubt you could replace any part of the driveline and make an awesome DYI while you were at it 👍
MM

 

OK folks....I have a huge issue with people who start threads, go down a path with the issues, like a suspense movie, and then never close the loop...So I am not going to do that on my thread!

So every time I took my car out to test drive, it would run great, and then after various amounts of time would start making that horrible grinding noise I posted in the MP3's above. I shifted, started, stopped, etc. to the point I felt I had ruled out front differential, rear differential, and the transmission. So on to the transfer case. The sound was very loud when it would occur, but was not always there...sometimes I would drive for 20+ minutes with hard acceleration...then it would return. It seemed to change with acceleration and sounded like metal scraping, a chain slipping over a gear, or something similar. It also seemed to do it when I put it in Rain/Snow and forced the front drive shaft to engage...

To be safe (and Jaguar Roadside Assistance was great!) I called JLR and they had it towed on a flatbed ~45 miles to the closest dealer(the dealer also replaced my driver window and trim under warranty due to scratches BTW). So they took several drives and nothing. Several days, and they called and asked if I wanted to come and try it...So I did. The level 5 Master Tech was super nice and went on a 35 minute Mr. Toads Wild Ride with me and was a great sport. No noise though! As we pulled back into the dealership I stopped and accelerated a few more times …and the noise started...He heard it and now could do something about it. So we pulled back out and he started recording with his phone. We both thought "damn! That sounds serious and bad!". He agreed it was coming from transfer case area and felt my assessment was likely correct...

So I left and he put it on the rack and started checking for software, and/or physical problems. And it all seemed to be OK? So he started looking around and banging and pulling on things under the car...more test drives...put a tech in the car up on the lift etc.

Finally! It was several things and nothing serious at all (two weeks now BTW). Apparently a Heat Shield started coming loose, and resting on the Transfer case in one spot...AND on the driveshaft in another...So you can imagine how loud that was! So he fixed those issues...More test drive. More noise??? Back on the rack with tech in car....And found that the VAP Cats/downpipes do not have the slight bend (up) as the OEMS, and over time the mid pipe sagged, causing it to rattle loudly against the support plate, and also was rubbing in the rear, where that cross member that rusts is located...Only problem is...he cannot fix that. I am going to work on it and he "Unofficially (did not)" give me some suggestions of things to try. So you are probably thinking I installed the Cats wrong....He said they looked perfect, and if I pushed them up anymore they would likely rattle under the car...they need to be bent, or otherwise move other parts of the exhaust a bit.

So why did it not do it all of the time? We/He felt that it was heat related. Once the exhaust got warm, it expanded, and/or the hangers stretched a bit (talking 1/16-1/8 inch) and allowed the heat shield to move and also started rubbing on the cross plate.

I was very relieved as you may imagine, and also went ahead and had an All Wheel Alignment while it was there, since I recently got new tires...

I have to say the guys at the dealership were awesome and car enthusiasts. They even called me when they saw the Water/Meth tubes...And I thought, "Oh Sh@t...here we go!"....And then the tech said..." Hey, I don't care man...I just did not want to hook up my devices and cause an issue if your car is tuned for that"...Then I grabbed a spatula and picked my jaw up off of the desk They also loved how loud the car was and mentioned it every time I spoke to them. They kept the car INSIDE the entire two weeks (I know cuz I have my InControl Remote...and they said they did...)

So I am a big fan of these guys, and really appreciate what they did for me.

Kept car 2 weeks (Inside), Gave me a new F-Pace Loaner, paid the tow, rode with me and test drove and worked on it for the whole time, put new glass and trim in and aligned it, and put Super Unleaded fuel in for me for a total bill of $220.00...And if that wasn't enough...When he was giving me the key, he said...seems like this FOB battery might be low...hang on. And he put a new battery in for me!

So now I just have to fiddle a bit with the exhaust...But ironically for the full 45 mile ride home and a couple of stops, it made 0 noise!

OK...Case closed. Enough babbling...

DC

 

Wow. Excellent results. I forgot your initial problem and reread your post. Talk about a change in cost and finding a suprb place to take it. Thanks for the update

 

Now that's a story with a happy ending, and one of the best things I've read all day. You must be elated.

Looks like 2021 is shaping up ok!

 

great news dc! looks like you'll have to hold off on moving back to Porsche, fortunate for us.

btw, can you pm me a link to ur water/meth upgrade?

 

Yes...Could have been so much worse!

Thanks,
DC