I have looked at some other posts that talk about the exhaust weeping water out but I am not sure if this should happen every-time I start the car. My drive way and garage floor is getting covered with these soot/water marks. See Below. Also the engine has a very pronounced (Tick,Tick) for a minutes after a cold start. Like the oil is not getting to the top. (my uneducated guess)... My warranty is about to end and want to make sure I address these if I need too. Thoughts and thank you in advance....

 

How long do you let it idle in your garage (from cold)? We don't have any stains in our garage, but it is apparent that sooty water is released from the area just behind the rear axle (where the muffler pipes are bolted together). Your first pic seems to show the drip more forward than that?

Best Practice is to warm up for ~30 seconds after starting, then drive away gently for 10 - 15 minutes before letting 'er RIP. There is no need to idle the engine to warm it up.

 

Do you park in various positions half way into the garage? To my knowledge there is only one spot (just ahead of the muffler) where there is a weep hole to drain the condensate. Also, start-up ticking may be the fuel injectors which when warm will quiet down. I've had this since day one for the last 30k miles.

 

I park in the same spot all the way in the garage. The drips spots are from pulling out of the garage, if I start the car and do not move right away I get a puddle. The dripping is around mid way, a little closer to the front. I drove the car yesterday about 80 miles and I would think that all the water would burn out. Get in the car today and I get another puddle of soot.

 

You are correct, the water would stop dripping after an 80 mile run. BUT it is normal for the condensation to reappear at the next cold start.

I'll be assisting a friend with a 2015 V8 today (on a lift) so I'll see if there is a joint that could be 'weeping' farther forward. Meanwhile a peek at YOUR car (post pics if you can reach a phone under there) might be in order.

It's possible that the 'tick-tick' noises that you hear are actually an exhaust leak. Hold a piece of coolant hose (or a paper towel tube) to your ear to determine if the 'ticks' are coming from the direction of the drip.

I'm thinking that you might need this if your warranty doesn't cover a crack in the pipe:

 

Nooooooo! lol You can take it to a decent independent muffler shop and they'll weld up a crack for about $35.

 

Here is a video on the leak. Notice the pipes pull away. Normal? wait for the drips to start..


Thanks...

 

I'm still learning this particular car, but I would say that is not normal, and would make certain that the pipes are pushed forward and tightened properly into the clamps.

 

+1.
Definitely not normal, do as silver86 says and do up those clamps RFT.
And I reckon this explains the "tick tick tick" while the car is cold - it's the hot exhaust gasses pulsing in the cold pipes and out the gaps, once the pipes get hot the gaps close and the ticking stops.

 

Looking towards the front

The clamp nuts to be tightened

A view of the pipes, front btowards the right.

For sure, those clamps are NOT tight. (I was only kidding about the muffler bandage, LOL)

I can see the pieces move away from each other when the engine starts at 0:04 (as the engine 'rocks' on its mounts).

Here's are pictures of a 'secure' V8 pipes.

Tighten yours up and you will be fine. No long-lasting harm done. (except for the stains on the garage floor, possibly.)

 

+3. Not normal. Loose clamps.

 

I have a appt on Monday to have some other small warranty issues fixed. They are going to look at this again. I will let you all know. Thanks for all the help!

 

Mine has been doing the same thing. I plan to do vehicle maintenance on all my vehicles later today this will be added to the list.

Anyone know a torque spec?

 

Like I said earlier the torque spec for these nuts is "RFT".
I have mucked about with the exhaust system on pretty much every car I have ever owned except the F-Type, including complete exhaust system swaps on the old XFS and XFR, and these nuts definitely need doing up pretty much as tight as you can get them. I use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 15 mm long shank hex socket (I'm guessing the F-Type nuts are also 15 mm) and every time I have "given it all she's got captain". The bolts that the nuts screw onto are big and boofy and can take whatever you throw at them.

 

Remove the nuts and coat the stud threads with anti-seize compound. That’ll make it possible to get the clamp tight enough without snapping off the stud. It will also ensure that you can get it off downstream when you’re ready for a loud box. If you let us know what the diameter of that stud is, I can let you know the safe maximum torque to apply.

 

Got the car back from the dealer and they installed new clamps and no more drip drip drip... Thanks for all the help...

 

What about the tick tick tick, is that gone as well?