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That’s why I don’t take the lumens written on the packaging as legit. Especially Chinese bulbs
also keep in mind osram and philips don’t change the marketing of kelvin rating across their d1, d2, d3 etc - a d2 with the Mercury will be noticeably whiter and closer to that 4300k rating
im sure with time the nightbreakers will colour shift to a slightly whiter light, but out of the box they are halogen projector yellow but much brighter
I took all of the same pictures but IMO its not close enough to scrutinize. Night Breakers on the left. I'll post the rest of the shots if anyone wants to see.
$80 (LED) vs $170 (NB) makes it an easy choice. The LEDs are supposed to last a lot longer too, but we all have five 20+ year LED light bulbs burned-out in our house. I do think the Night Breakers scatter a little less on bright, but IMO not enough to offset the better low beam power, color rendering, and looks of the LEDs when viewing the lights from the outside compare to the white J-blade. If all you care about is a slightly less scatter on high beams at the expense of a little less brightness on low beams, the NBs could be a keeper.
Don't expect miracles, this is a minor upgrade to 35W OEM entry level lighting. It is tempting to pull the headlights and upgrade the NBs to a 55W HID ballast, but the additional heat could melt or scorch the housing mirrors.
Thanks for the good info.
Following the link, I don't whether it's the right one to buy.
So, Can I have the link for the purchase LED bulbs which is the best you think?
unfortunately on Amazon, “currently unavailable” means discontinued.
"Currently unavailable" actually means they have no inventory tracking number for a shipment inbound. Once an tracking number is input into the Amazon Seller Central shipping queue, Amazon will add their inventory management to the time to the arrival time and show an "in stock on" date. I placed my order on January 17 with an "in stock on" date of Jan 30. The lights arrived here on Jan 28 and were already out of stock.
I contacted the seller through Amazon, They are still on Spring Festival break and will restock the warehouse soon.
You might ask them to create a merchant fulfilled listing to speed things way up, save the FBA fee as well as their shipping cost to Amazon. They can list any number of items as merchant fulfilled, even just 1.
You might ask them to create a merchant fulfilled listing to speed things way up, save the FBA fee as well as their shipping cost to Amazon. They can list any number of items as merchant fulfilled, even just 1.
Should be back in stock first week of March - I preordered a set.
By taking out a headlight and tracing the 12V leads from the Jag HID Ballast back to the main wiring harness, we get a simple way to tap the 12V source at the wiring harness.
I'll show how a photo of how to tap the 12V source at the ballast too, if you prefer to remove the headlight per the LED instructions instead of installing a pigtail.
Using the pigtail method, there is no need to remove your headlights, all that is required is this set of pigtails or similar to tap the correct wires at the main headlight wiring harness.
The whole job takes maybe 30 minutes per side and is an easy DIY that makes your car D3S LED ready. If you tuck the pigtail away neatly, it is very hard to tell anything is different from stock, even for a dealer changing a headlight.
Since the ballast stays intact this way, you can choose to run normal/stock HID bulbs or any D3S LED bulb. If using an HID bulb, you plug the bulb in normally. If using an LED bulb, you plug it into the pigtail.
I'll post a tutorial plus a left/right bulb comparison of the two LEDs this weekend.
By taking out a headlight and tracing the 12V leads from the Jag HID Ballast back to the main wiring harness, we get a simple way to tap the 12V source at the wiring harness.
I'll show how a photo of how to tap the 12V source at the ballast too, if you prefer to remove the headlight per the LED instructions instead of installing a pigtail.
Using the pigtail method, there is no need to remove your headlights, all that is required is this set of pigtails or similar to tap the correct wires at the main headlight wiring harness.
The whole job takes maybe 30 minutes per side and is an easy DIY that makes your car D3S LED ready. If you tuck the pigtail away neatly, it is very hard to tell anything is different from stock, even for a dealer changing a headlight.
Since the ballast stays intact this way, you can choose to run normal/stock HID bulbs or any D3S LED bulb. If using an HID bulb, you plug the bulb in normally. If using an LED bulb, you plug it into the pigtail.
I'll post a tutorial plus a left/right bulb comparison of the two LEDs this weekend.
That's pretty awesome of you - unexpectedly my light kit has shipped and will arrive tomorrow. I wonder how these direct connects will work.