Engine/supercharger noise problem - F-Type V6 340HP
#1
Engine/supercharger noise problem - F-Type V6 340HP
Hi!
I have a problem with my F-Type. Strange sound comes out from the engine and supercharger area. When I press gas pedal a little it disappears for a second and after a while it comes back again.
When you turn off the engine you can hear very heavy loud knocks in the supercharger area, what could it be?
Video:
F-Type V6 2014 (3.0 340HP), mileage 45,000 (72,000 km)
I have a problem with my F-Type. Strange sound comes out from the engine and supercharger area. When I press gas pedal a little it disappears for a second and after a while it comes back again.
When you turn off the engine you can hear very heavy loud knocks in the supercharger area, what could it be?
Video:
F-Type V6 2014 (3.0 340HP), mileage 45,000 (72,000 km)
#2
Hi!
I have a problem with my F-Type. Strange sound comes out from the engine and supercharger area. When I press gas pedal a little it disappears for a second and after a while it comes back again.
When you turn off the engine you can hear very heavy loud knocks in the supercharger area, what could it be?
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdjjxrKItI8&
F-Type V6 2014 (3.0 340HP), mileage 45,000 (72,000 km)
I have a problem with my F-Type. Strange sound comes out from the engine and supercharger area. When I press gas pedal a little it disappears for a second and after a while it comes back again.
When you turn off the engine you can hear very heavy loud knocks in the supercharger area, what could it be?
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdjjxrKItI8&
F-Type V6 2014 (3.0 340HP), mileage 45,000 (72,000 km)
#3
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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That is the classic noise of a worn SC coupler/torsion isolator.
A "marbles in a tin can" rattle at start up and cold idle, then a loud "clonk" when you shut the engine down.
See here for an explanation of the wear: How to replace an Eaton Supercharger Coupler : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power
I had the exact same thing on my 2014 V6S F-type and I had it fixed under warranty.
The warranty fix involves replacing the entire snout of the SC, not just the coupler.
If under warranty it is covered by a JLR Technical Bulletin, JTB00356NAS1 (could be NAS2 by now I think).
Search this forum using the terms "coupler" and "torsion isolator" and you should find more info.
The cost to you depends on if the car is still in warranty or not, I guess your new car warranty has long expired but you may have a CPO warranty.
But even with a CPO warranty I suspect you will have a fight on your hands getting the fix done under warranty.
The parts are not super expensive but the labour can be as the SC needs to come off and that is labour intensive.
Some have gotten away with replacing just the coupler, and in turn some have used after-market ones that are solid plastic with no spring.
Note that the 3.0 V6 version of this coupler appears to be different to the much more common 5.0 V8 version, judging by eBay listings.
A "marbles in a tin can" rattle at start up and cold idle, then a loud "clonk" when you shut the engine down.
See here for an explanation of the wear: How to replace an Eaton Supercharger Coupler : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power
I had the exact same thing on my 2014 V6S F-type and I had it fixed under warranty.
The warranty fix involves replacing the entire snout of the SC, not just the coupler.
If under warranty it is covered by a JLR Technical Bulletin, JTB00356NAS1 (could be NAS2 by now I think).
Search this forum using the terms "coupler" and "torsion isolator" and you should find more info.
The cost to you depends on if the car is still in warranty or not, I guess your new car warranty has long expired but you may have a CPO warranty.
But even with a CPO warranty I suspect you will have a fight on your hands getting the fix done under warranty.
The parts are not super expensive but the labour can be as the SC needs to come off and that is labour intensive.
Some have gotten away with replacing just the coupler, and in turn some have used after-market ones that are solid plastic with no spring.
Note that the 3.0 V6 version of this coupler appears to be different to the much more common 5.0 V8 version, judging by eBay listings.
The following 2 users liked this post by OzXFR:
AaronLin (12-21-2019),
CaptainHam (06-30-2020)
#4
What OzXFR ^^^^^^^ said. The sound is created as the holes on the supercharger drive coupling become slightly elongated and rattle at idle as the engine RPMs are uneven (rotates faster and then slower with each piston power stroke). My Tundra had a Eaton twin scroll supercharger with that same problem. On that vehicle, I was able to unbolt the SC snout (3 hours labor) and replaced it with a $20 aftermarket coupling. Unfortunately, as mentioned above, its harder on the F type.
Typically happens between 40,000 to 70,000 miles. The upgraded couplings are supposed to be good for more like 100.000 miles. Note that if you hear "rattling" noise at engine speeds other than idle, you may have a more serious problem - i.e. supercharger may need an overhaul.
Typically happens between 40,000 to 70,000 miles. The upgraded couplings are supposed to be good for more like 100.000 miles. Note that if you hear "rattling" noise at engine speeds other than idle, you may have a more serious problem - i.e. supercharger may need an overhaul.
#5
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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What OzXFR ^^^^^^^ said. The sound is created as the holes on the supercharger drive coupling become slightly elongated and rattle at idle as the engine RPMs are uneven (rotates faster and then slower with each piston power stroke). My Tundra had a Eaton twin scroll supercharger with that same problem. On that vehicle, I was able to unbolt the SC snout (3 hours labor) and replaced it with a $20 aftermarket coupling. Unfortunately, as mentioned above, its harder on the F type.
Typically happens between 40,000 to 70,000 miles. The upgraded couplings are supposed to be good for more like 100.000 miles. Note that if you hear "rattling" noise at engine speeds other than idle, you may have a more serious problem - i.e. supercharger may need an overhaul.
Typically happens between 40,000 to 70,000 miles. The upgraded couplings are supposed to be good for more like 100.000 miles. Note that if you hear "rattling" noise at engine speeds other than idle, you may have a more serious problem - i.e. supercharger may need an overhaul.
#6
Sounding suspiciously like I have the same issue, rattle at idle and clonk when shutting down engine. Thanks for this thread, really appreciated!!!
Last year was the first of my £900 extended warranty and it paid for a £1500 electrical gremlin, now this year's £900 will hopefully be paying for this fix...
Last year was the first of my £900 extended warranty and it paid for a £1500 electrical gremlin, now this year's £900 will hopefully be paying for this fix...
#7
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#8
Hi Folks,
My 2017 340cv 35000kms (21000mls) out of warranty, has this new strange sound similar to what seems to be described in this post and the other ones referencing the TB JTB00356NAS2 about engine noise, but I am just guessing. I leave in France, and I have this car for 2 years and never had such noise before. To be precise with my issue It is on the mid-left side of the engine, and it sounds like there are small metallic ***** rolling in a metal can, if I can say. This sound only happens when the engine is cold. The car will be taken to repair in a month's time for a diagnostic, and hope that won't be a massive issue.. But in the meantime, I would like to know if it is safe to drive, or should I get the car towed to the garage?
I recorded the engine noise (see attached), where we can slightly hear this particular noise in the back of the regular engine noise.
Any comments, or advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks a mill.
My 2017 340cv 35000kms (21000mls) out of warranty, has this new strange sound similar to what seems to be described in this post and the other ones referencing the TB JTB00356NAS2 about engine noise, but I am just guessing. I leave in France, and I have this car for 2 years and never had such noise before. To be precise with my issue It is on the mid-left side of the engine, and it sounds like there are small metallic ***** rolling in a metal can, if I can say. This sound only happens when the engine is cold. The car will be taken to repair in a month's time for a diagnostic, and hope that won't be a massive issue.. But in the meantime, I would like to know if it is safe to drive, or should I get the car towed to the garage?
I recorded the engine noise (see attached), where we can slightly hear this particular noise in the back of the regular engine noise.
Any comments, or advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks a mill.
#9
#10
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Yep, as long as it's left side looking into the engine bay from the front of the car.
There are two high pressure fuel pumps on the AJ133 and AJ126, both low down on the right side of the engine block towards the front, and the no. 2 pump in particular is prone to wear and rattle.
Edit - here's a pic of the fuel system showing the number 1 high pressure fuel pump (the number 2 pump is hidden behind it):
There are two high pressure fuel pumps on the AJ133 and AJ126, both low down on the right side of the engine block towards the front, and the no. 2 pump in particular is prone to wear and rattle.
Edit - here's a pic of the fuel system showing the number 1 high pressure fuel pump (the number 2 pump is hidden behind it):
Last edited by OzXFR; 05-14-2022 at 07:49 PM.
#11
#12
#14
It's a little hard to tell from the clip....but it certainly could be a high pressure fuel pump.
With that said, the way to check is to get the car on a lift/jack stands and remove the under tray. Once you do that, you can see the two high pressure fuel pumps (they have black rubber covers on them and they sit down from where your arrow points...next to the engine mount) and use an automotive stethoscope to listen to them to see if the noise is coming from there.
As for replacing them, I have done it (several times--long story). Not difficult if you are mechanically inclined but the OEM pumps are pricy. And I do recommend replacing with the OEM pumps as opposed to aftermarket for reasons I won't go into here.
Just my opinion...hope this helps.
With that said, the way to check is to get the car on a lift/jack stands and remove the under tray. Once you do that, you can see the two high pressure fuel pumps (they have black rubber covers on them and they sit down from where your arrow points...next to the engine mount) and use an automotive stethoscope to listen to them to see if the noise is coming from there.
As for replacing them, I have done it (several times--long story). Not difficult if you are mechanically inclined but the OEM pumps are pricy. And I do recommend replacing with the OEM pumps as opposed to aftermarket for reasons I won't go into here.
Just my opinion...hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
OzXFR (05-19-2022)
#15
It's a little hard to tell from the clip....but it certainly could be a high pressure fuel pump.
With that said, the way to check is to get the car on a lift/jack stands and remove the under tray. Once you do that, you can see the two high pressure fuel pumps (they have black rubber covers on them and they sit down from where your arrow points...next to the engine mount) and use an automotive stethoscope to listen to them to see if the noise is coming from there.
As for replacing them, I have done it (several times--long story). Not difficult if you are mechanically inclined but the OEM pumps are pricy. And I do recommend replacing with the OEM pumps as opposed to aftermarket for reasons I won't go into here.
Just my opinion...hope this helps.
With that said, the way to check is to get the car on a lift/jack stands and remove the under tray. Once you do that, you can see the two high pressure fuel pumps (they have black rubber covers on them and they sit down from where your arrow points...next to the engine mount) and use an automotive stethoscope to listen to them to see if the noise is coming from there.
As for replacing them, I have done it (several times--long story). Not difficult if you are mechanically inclined but the OEM pumps are pricy. And I do recommend replacing with the OEM pumps as opposed to aftermarket for reasons I won't go into here.
Just my opinion...hope this helps.
#16
#17
Finally got the car out of the repair, after an entire month of it sitting there.
They replaced the upper accessory pulley, which they told me was having a 1cm play, thus the need to replace it. I paid 550eur for the diagnostic and to get it replaced for those who are interested to know the pricing in France.
I looked online but could not find any TB related to it, so just wondering how rare would this be. So far the car no longer presents the noise like I was describing. I am not too familiar with JLR service, have only done one service since, and got the brakes/pad replaced by my local shop. Honestly, don't know if it is common with JLR but I found better quality service with low-end care makers, especially when considering I discovered after collecting the car they made plenty of scratches on the front bump (top and right), and a few on the back too.. but this is another story and time now to fight with them to get it fixed..
Thanks for your assistance all
They replaced the upper accessory pulley, which they told me was having a 1cm play, thus the need to replace it. I paid 550eur for the diagnostic and to get it replaced for those who are interested to know the pricing in France.
I looked online but could not find any TB related to it, so just wondering how rare would this be. So far the car no longer presents the noise like I was describing. I am not too familiar with JLR service, have only done one service since, and got the brakes/pad replaced by my local shop. Honestly, don't know if it is common with JLR but I found better quality service with low-end care makers, especially when considering I discovered after collecting the car they made plenty of scratches on the front bump (top and right), and a few on the back too.. but this is another story and time now to fight with them to get it fixed..
Thanks for your assistance all
Last edited by 04s; 07-08-2022 at 10:48 AM.
#18
Me too
mine is doing the same thing. Did you ever figure it out?
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