@natguar Here is the part number for the Throw Out Bearing for the V6 Manuals.
It is a Volvo part as well.. made by FTE

Jaguar part number: JDE 32591P1
Part number markings: FTE CZ 6795
Other Markings:
ZA3107A1
SNR BAC 480NM02$ FR
FTE-ZA31803 
 C 20028/01

 

@natguar At first I thought you wanted to know more about the Pilot Bearing (supporting the transmission input shaft at the center of the flywheel).

The OEM part has some markings on it..
U German , INA , F-214930
[seems to support Ford products as well]

Here are some dimensions of the Pilot Bearing
OD = 28 mm
ID = 14 mm
height = 20-24 mm

 

Herman, thank you so much for your support!

 

Hi Herman,

We've been working on getting the FType back on the road and i couldn't find a clutch alignment tool specifically for the FType. I didn't do much research but ended up CADing my own as I needed it before the weekend. Here are some pictures, let me know if you're interested in a copy!
I wanted to mention that above you're looking into a 23 spline clutch, on the 2018 FType OEM Clutch, we have 25 splines. I'm not sure if there are differences between the years but something to keep in mind. If your clutch is 23 splines, I can easily modify the clutch alignment tool for you.

 

Clutch Alignment Tool:
Yes, I would be very interested in a clutch alignment tool. I had a plastic one from Aasco Motorsports which supplied me with the Single Mass Lightweight Flywheel and Porsche clutch kit, but I lost track of it when I had a Euro Car Shop do the installation.
I have never seen a 25t spline on a Jaguar manual... yours would be the first. Would the P400 manual gearbox be different?! I would find this hard to believe as this was a very small batch of cars.
I have not seen any special part numbers at Jaguar indicating they are supporting other clutches besides the 23t spline Gen4 part listed below.

Friction Disks: (see photo)
Jaguar OEM 2nd Gen 23t spline, 25.6 mm OD, 23.0 mm ID, thkns 8.1 mm (20 kmiles worn)
Jaguar OEM 4th Gen 23t spline, 25.6 mm OD, 23.0 mm ID, thkns 8.6 mm (new)
ACT Disk 3001203 23t spline, 24 mm OD, 22.0 mm ID, thkns 9.0 mm (new)

Pilot stub:
2017 ZF Manual Transmission, Pilot shaft OD 15.0 mm , length 3.0 cm

The keen among you will see that my ACT disk has the wrong size spline.... grrr. It did not fit on my tranny's input shaft today.
I never checked the spline until now. It is probably an Audi dimension as this clutch came from an S4 and S6 application.
Ugh, time to give ACT a call to see if I can find a different sprung disk that will fit my manual 23t spline (25.4 mm OD) input shaft.

Herman

 

@natguar
Are you sure that your transmission is a 25 spline?
I zoomed in on your photo of the friction disc and did some graphical fitting and counted only 23 teeth.
The picture seems to show a pretty solid 15.6 deg tooth pitch (23t spline), and not a 14.4 deg pitch.
Just checking (better safe than sorry)

 

Here is a link to Summit Racing's clutch alignment tool page.
I am sure there is a 23-spline, 1" (25.6 mm) OD, and pilot with 0.59" (15 mm) OD
Perhaps the ATC AT-03 for $4 ??

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/clutch-alignment-tools

 

I was able to document some of the challenges of removing the F-Type manual transmission in this video.
Putting the transmission back will be a challenge as the tunnel has very little room and will require the engine to be tilted rearward.

YouTube:

 

Herman,
I apologize but you are correct, I was recalling the spline count incorrectly. I referenced my CAD file and yes, it is 23 splines. I've attached a screenshot of the dimensions I used for my model and it worked perfectly. I believe the ATC AT-03 tool should work well, my 14.5mm shaft OD for the pilot bearing still had a bit of wiggle but I was fighting the 3D printer slicer as the OD was not printed as per the CAD file.

I watched your video and commend the work you've done for your FType, which also has a fantastic paint color! Doing the work on a lift was no fun and having even less space underneath is even worse.

Definitely need to look into the short shifter for slightly more crisp gear selection and hoping your final flywheel, clutch, pressure plate combo will solve the clutch pedal feel...looking for more of that 911 stiffness

 

I just wrapped up my second video, which focuses on the Re-Installation of the manual transmission into the F-Type.
The car went back together well, but still having some issues with the clutch hydraulic circuit.
... or more precisely, my car doesn't seem to disengage the clutch when the pedal is depressed.
I am pretty sure the friction disc (the only thing I changed besides the pilot bearing) is of the correct thickness (8.7mm) and orientation (as indicated on the disk).
So I am going for a Pressure Bleeder system (in conjunction with my vacuum system).
Otherwise, any clutch bleeding hints or tips appreciated.

 

My hands-on experience with annular slave cylinders is limited to one brand (Saab 99/900) but repeated many times. Sometimes it took lots of pumping to get the proper function, even after thorough bleeding. The inner seal needs to inch itself out to the right self-adjustment position. The whole mechanism is accessible when everything is installed, which unfortunately is not the case here.

 

Thanks Steve. Others have said that bleeding the clutch in the F-Type is “straight forward”.
I seem to have divided the system at the wrong point, or I have an air bubble in an awkward position.
I did order a positive pressure bleeder unit that I may use in conjunction with my vacuum unit.. to get double the flow of hydraulic fluid.
Either way, I am appreciating the challenge and can’t wait to see how the ACT friction disc performs with “soft springs” at low RPM.

Best, Herman

 

Herman,

I responded to your question on YouTube but here’s our experience below:

Bleeding the clutch should be simple. I don't believe you need to bench bleed the slave cylinder and it looks nearly impossible to crack open the bleeder that is on top of the bell housing. I'd recommend a power bleeder, build up 15psi or so, pump the clutch pedal a bunch (might have to pull the pedal back up all the way), then crack open the bleeder which is near the firewall. It is possible to squeeze a brake fluid bottle back in there with a hose going to the nipple of the bleeder. You don't need any tools for bleeding either, the valve can be opened by hand which is nice

Let me know if that helps any. Had similar issues on the Porsche 944 and it took 20-30 clutch pedal actuations to get all the air bubbles out

 

Thanks Natguar.
I will wait until my new Pressure Bleeder tool arrives in a few days time before attacking the clutch system again.
Then will try various forward or reverse fluid flow techniques, with various positive or negative pressure, or pedal pressure.. or all three!

I will also post the Clutch Hydraulic diagram here….
It does have some high spots. I am not sure why the routing couldn’t have been simplified. I suppose Jaguar used the standard slave bleeder connection (used by Volvo, BMW, etc) which points upward and toward the RHS of the car, there by dictating some of the flex hose routing.


F-Type manual clutch hydraulic circuit diagram

 

Update:
oooh.. this is gonna be a good one... I did not have an air bubble in the clutch hydraulic system.

Pressure Plates and Spring Packs:
Has anyone ever experienced the clutch re-engaging as the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor?
My transmission shifts beautifully at 75% depression of the clutch pedal, and then the clutch starts to engage again as the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor.
My combination of an ACT friction disk and a Sachs pressure plate probably resulted in a "clearance issue" at full depression of the pressure plate tines.
The ACT technical team says this sort of thing can happen as people mix and match components.
I see that the spring pack on my ACT friction disc was designed to mount toward the the transmission side, while the Sachs friction disk spring pack was designed to mount toward the engine side.
Apparently many of the Euro designed cars have space for the spring packs on the flywheel side, while many US and Japanese designed cars have "flat" flywheels and space for the spring pack on the Pressure Plate / Transmission side.

Marcel Springs:
So my next question was: Can I flip the friction disk around so the spring pack is pointed opposite to what is written on the friction disk?
The ACT technician says, "It depends". Friction discs often have metal wave washer under the friction material, these are called Marcel Springs and they help smooth out the engagement of the clutch.
Sometimes the Marcel springs may have a "bias" in torque handling relative to forward torque, or rearward torque, thereby tuning the engagement action between acceleration up shift and deceleration down shift.

Possible Options:
Here are a few options that I may consider in the short term.

• add a clutch pedal stop to limit pedal throw (or adjust any links and rods that may be present in the system)
• add a small bubble of air (about 1cc) into the circuit to prevent full depression of the pressure plate (a bit of a temporary kludge)
• flip the friction disk over so there is no clearance issue (not a bad step, but not a long term solution)
• investigate a new pressure plate that can provide sufficient clearance for the pressure plate's springs. (long term solution)

Next Steps:
I still want to see if the ACT sprung friction disks helps with reducing NVH at low RPM driving.
So I will get my car back on the road and see how it drives across the low RPM band in several gears.
Then I can remove the tranny again, and install a properly fitted solution.

The saga continues...
BTW, here is my Onca Engineering Video on getting the transmission back into the car with common garage tools.

 

Update: I installed the loosely sprung ACT friction disc in my Single Mass Lightweight Flywheel application to see if it attenuated some of the NVH issues at low RPM.
The results are documented in the attached video, but the short answer is :
No, the loosely sprung clutch disc doesn’t really improve the lower RPM NVH issues.
Yes, the lightweight flywheel system is still a viable option for enjoying the upper RPM range of the engine.

 

Update:
Two quick items.

A) I have corrected the orientation of the friction disc in my 2017 V6 MT with Aasco Lightweight Flywheel and Sach's pressure plate.
The spring pack of the friction disc is now facing the engine side (not the transmission side)
Some evidence of spring pack interference with the pressure plate tines was found, so my theory was correct as to why the clutch "re-engaged" when the clutch pedal was fully depressed.

B) A second conversion kit has been assembled and delivered to @Blue-F A picture of the parts is shown below.

• Lightweight Flywheel from Aasco Motorsports
• Pressure plate from ACT
• Friction disc from ACT
• Clutch alignment tool from ACT
• Throw Out Bearing from FTE
• Flywheel bolts from Jaguar
• Clutch bolts from Jaguar
  
  Lightweight flywheel kit for Jaguar F-Type V6 MT
  

 

I have found an appropriate friction disc from Kennedy Engineered Products.
This friction disc has all of the properties that we need for the single mass, lightweight flywheel, with spring pack to flywheel side.

Below is a summary table from a recent YT video that I posted... and a RPM response time video link.

Best,
Herman Wiegman
Onca Engineering


Suggested Flywheel & Clutch solution for various applications.

Here is a summary video on the response time difference with the lightweight flywheel vs. OEM Dual Mass Flywheel.

https://youtu.be/FaRMtHX6p9g - Flywheel Inertia

 

@Onca Engineering

In your eDiff video you note a bigger damper ring for the V8. Would it make any sense, or even be possible, to fit that to a V6 diff?

 

@lizzardo Good eye Steve.
I have seen these damper rings (rubber isolated outer metal ring) mounted to the yoke of an eDiff on various Jag models (XJ, F-Pace, etc.)
Additionally, some model Jags have balancing masses hung off the back of the diff unit. (XE and XF cars and some other models)
If you spend a few hours on eBay Auto searching for “Jaguar rear differential”, you will eventually expose yourself to a wide range of add ons.

I think there must have been some tangible benefit in adding these extra bits and bobs.
They probably reduced some NVH issues at the corners of the operational envelope (e.g. engine braking below 20 mph on a downhill left corner).
But it can’t be that vital, as the rubber and metal ring add less than 1 lbs to a driveshaft that weighs ~25 lbs, and a pinion assembly that weighs 5 lbs.

I have removed some yoke damper rings, but I had to cut them off, as the damper assembly is an interference fit on the outer radius of the yoke.
So it is not easy to install these dampers after the fact. (Via a 10 ton press?)
One could exchange a damper ring equipped yoke from one diff to an other, but that would require the pinion nut to be removed (which is torqued to Jesus levels).
And I have found that most pinion yokes also have a liberal amount of thread locker applied to the splines to the pinion shaft, making it difficult to extract the yoke from the diff. This would require a special hub puller that could grab around the damper ring to the lip on the yoke.

I tend to favor simplicity, and do not recommend taking on the challenge of adding these elements.

Steve, did you have an NVH issues that is annoying you?

Best,
Herman Wiegman
Onca Engineering