I'm a fairly decent wrench, but would never consider attempting a hand at doing interior fit and trim. It depends on personal skills whether or not to attempt certain projects. Everytime I just look at plastic panels, little pieces of plastic tabs start flying around the cockpit. The only vehicle I will work on the interior is my FJ40. All assembled with screws and bolts, and I can clean up afterwards by rinsing it out with a garden hose.

 

It's a little intimidating but honestly the interior trim is not overly difficult to remove and install. I've taken apart and re-installed practically all all of the interior trim with the exception of the dashboard. I also have an F150 that I removed and reinstalled the interior of for much more extensive audio work. The F-Type interior was not much more difficult to take apart than that truck was, it's just a little more cramped.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll take out the chain saw and get started.

 

What could I get for $1,500? An improved subwoofer set up.

I mostly listen to jazz, symphonies, opera and experimental music, all of which require clear separation of the timbres. I don’t play a lot of hip hop, EDM or other music with loud, thumping bass so I don’t need a super powerful subwoofer.

BTW, I have another sound system question: Does anyone play MP3-format albums stored on a flash drive that’s plugged into one of the USB slots? I’m finding that often the order of album tracks gets scrambled, even when I’ve edited the names of the tracks by adding consecutive numerical prefixes. This happens most often with box sets, e.g. the complete Mozart symphonies.

 

I now have the sub turned almost all the way off. Fader all the way forward. Bass and treble left flat. I keep switching between DTS and stereo. The dang center channel driver is too prominent in any of the surround schemes and the stereo version has no sound staging at all. Worst of all, when I play Parabola, there’s just no dynamics.

You could try the upgraded JLR drivers first? At worst you could add a DSP and amps afterwards.

I don’t play my AAC’s on a flash drive in the Jag because I prefer to listen to the iPhone. The BT isn’t as good as having CarPlay with the audio over WiFi but... I do listen to my AAC’s on a flash drive in the 958.2 because Porsche’s PCM is beyond stupid when it comes to media. It reconnects to the tuner upon startup after you had been listening to BT when you turned it off. If you leave it on USB, it stays on USB. I don’t have the tracking problem because I shuffle the 1,600 songs on the drive. No classical.

 

What are AACs, BT and PCM?

 

AAC: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Audio_Coding
BT is Bluetooth which is convenient. PCM is Porsche Communication Management which is supposed to be convenient but IRL is more stupider than the Jag's media/navigation interface. If that's even possible.
Generally speaking, MP3's and BT are not ideal because of low sampling rates/high compression. MP3's need to be ripped at 256kbps. If yours are the more typical 128, that's a problem. Music on a USB should sound better than BT but it depends on what DAC the audio system is using. I've used Meridian DAC's and their pretty good. https://www.whathifi.com/us/meridian/explorer-2/review The biggest problem with the USB audio is the system can't multitask. It's either USB or BT. You don't hear notifications or navigation instructions (if you're using Waze or Maps on your phone).

 

For a modest cost you can have modest but worthwhile improvements. Swap the 6 drivers in the doors plus the center for the "premium" JLR versions. The most expensive of them will be the 200mm midbass because you'll probably need to order them new from the dealer - about $250 for a pair. The smaller mids and tweeters are fairly easy to find on eBay for another ~$200. They are all plug and play direct swaps. While you have the door panels off I highly recommend adding sound deadening to the door as well as the panels. That's $100-200 in materials and a few hours of your time. Next is to eliminate the subs behind the seats. You'll see a couple of people that have replaced them and used the factory locations but that's a lot of work to get a quality install and they will still be firing into the big plastic panel causing buzzes and resonance. A single 8" or 10" in a small sealed enclosure will be easier with likely better results as long as you don't mind taking up about .75-1cuft of space in the boot. I've also seen someone use a prefabricated "slim" sub enclosure with integrated amp mounted behind the seat. I doubt it's as good as building your own enclosure for a nice sub but probably still a noticeable improvement from the factory subs. So if you go with something like an Image Dynamics ID8 or ID10 it's $100-140 plus $30 in materials (MDF) to build a simple box. A really nice compact amp that fits the bill here is the Audio Control AMC-1.300 ($280). It has a good line converter built in so will take the amplified signal from the factory system and use it to drive your new sub. This is all fairly easy to DIY, especially swapping the door speakers. You might pay a shop $500 labor and accessories to install the amp and build you a simple sealed enclosure if you aren't comfortable doing that part yourself. I'd show up with the sub and amp and tell them what you want rather than asking them for suggestions.

 

If you have a coupe, you might see if you can get this done at the dealership: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...inally-171963/

 

I was a professional installer back in the 90's but haven't really kept up over the last few decades. I just recently got an F type and the sounds system sucks so I took it to a shop to get an estimate and played dumb to see what he would come up with. I was quoted 10k for a system as well using Focal speakers and JL Audio processors/amps with a custom 8" enclosure stealthily hidden in the trunk.

My previous car was a RRSS with their top sound system and it sounded amazing. I'm skipping the 10k and just upgrading the front speakers with the LR versions. I think a set of those HK speakers along with a nice layer of dynamat is good enough.

For the back speakers I might just disconnect them all together and run a set of wires to a 8" amp/speaker enclosure that will fit under/behind my seat. It's not the best solution but it should sound much better than the factory rear sub, is hidden well enough and it's cost effective.

either:
Alpine model - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PWE...S8.html?tp=114
or
Focals model - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091IBU...20.html?tp=114

If that doesn't sound good or I get annoyed that it doesn't look factory, I'm going to try seal/enclose the factory back area well enough and stick in a set of 6 1/2 kicker subs with the stock tweets/mid. Kicker subs powered by the ACM-1.300 and will try to hide in that in the trunk or the secret stash between the driver and passenger.

My goal is to have a system that doesn't fart out and sounds reasonably tight and balanced inside the cabin.

TM1238, thanks for starting this thread, the tips and pics.

I plan on starting the first weekend in March. I'll post pics if anyone is interested of the process.

 

I'll be using an ACM-1.300 most likely with a pair of 8s or a single 10 in a custom enclosure utilizing the storage tub space in the trunk. I remembered that I had a brand new JBL GTO804 on the shelf in my garage that I previously planned to put in my wife's car. I decided to build up a quick sealed enclosure of it over the weekend to try out. It's supposed to be a stout little sub but I'm not sure a single 8 will be sufficient. We'll see - probably be a few weeks before I pull the rear trim panel off to access the factory amp and speaker leads to hook it up.

I don't remember if it was here or Fb but not too long ago I saw someone used a pair of compact powered subs like you are considering behind the seats down low. As long as you don't need to have your seat pushed back too far there is enough space. For the price I think you'd be much better off with a pair of the Alpines. The Focal doesn't offer anything significantly better.

 

I'm definitely interested in seeing your set up with the sub and amp install. Looks like a nice combo and hiding it in the little storage tub will be slick.

Luckily I'm short and can fit a small sub/amp enclosure behind my seat but nothing too big. I was looking at the Focal because they seem to be the premiere brand everyone is pushing but I'm guessing your right about the Alpine being good enough and the focal's price might not by justified by any sonic quality difference.

I'm pretty blown away that Jaguar let a crappy system pass their design QA. My old RRS harmon Kardon system was one of the best stock systems I've heard. Amazing bass and so well balanced at high volumes. I got compliments from my audiophile friends for that stock system. This system is such a let down but the rest of the car is pretty amazing and more than makes up for it.

 

For high end components I'd consider Focal but for something like a slim powered sub enclosure I think they are WAY overpriced.

I haven't done any measurements yet but may need to do some fiberglass work for the sub enclosure to maximize space. Ideally I'd like to squeeze the ACM-1.300 down there with all the relays as well to keep it out of the way.

 

That would be a nice set up. You got me thinking about that little space back there and I found a few powered subs that actually fit in that spot. fill in that area around the sub with some foam and it would be an easy disconnect to remove it as well.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSW...DA.html?tp=114

Somehow I have a feeling that I'll be reasonably happy with this powered sub but will inevitably build a custom enclosure using the stock sub area behind the seats with a ACM-1.300 powering it.... I should do the smart thing and go with the custom enclosure behind the seat.....

 

Maybe start with the powered enclosure stuck behind the seat just to see if it has enough output. You could even stick it on the passenger side and just push the seat back to hold it in place temporarily.

 

Hello,
I have a question. I want to put an active subwoofer in my trunk of the F-Type convertible. I have the Meridian 380W system. I already replaced all 4 bass speakers in the car with much better ones - but still to less bass.
What is the easiest way to get the clean audio signal from? Is there any cable I can use in that car? I donīt want to disassemble my whole car.
thanks for answeres

 

You will need to pull out the large trim panel behind the seats to get to the speaker wiring and can grab the signal from there. If you've replaced the bass speakers behind the seats then you've already been back there.

 

You need to re-read the relevant audio threads more closely. The whole reason people are putting powered sub behind the seats is because they have convertibles . There is no point in putting a sub in the boot of the a convertible as there no way for the sound waves to get into the cabin(unless you are getting out your angle grinder). Coupes different matter all together.

 

Hi, my first post here……

I have a 2015 F-Type V6S coupe. It has the base audio system, non Meridian. I’m not overly impressed with the sound. I’ve stripped a load of the trim off to check exactly what I’ve got. There’s no centre dash speaker and no speakers at all behind the seats, despite having grills. The doors have 3 speakers in them. I intend to Dynamat the doors and door cards and change all 3 speakers to, non Jag aftermarket units. Has anyone done this on the base audio and did it make much of a difference? I’ll post on here what I install and what I think of the difference. If it’s not any better, I may go with an amp and fit subwoofers behind the seats in the places where the Jag items are on the higher systems. Alternatively, I may go with an amp and a sub in the boot. Anyone tried either of these options and how much of an improvement was it?

 

Pretty simple. If you are starting from the 180w system the best bang for buck is to just go completely non-jag with every component . There is nothing to gain to try and remain OEM from where you are starting.
Also the worst place for rear subs is behind the seats unless you are going to custom make fibreglass sub boxes. Simpler to put one in the boot in a coupe.