F-Type Handling
#1
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Hi everyone,
Not sure if this has been discussed, I went back several pages and didn't really see anything on there.
When I purchased my car I asked for the tech's to give me as much camber as possible during the PDI alignment. When I spoke to the service advisor he said that camber is not adjustable and that if I do change the camber the warranty is void.
I am a pretty careful person when it comes to picking my battles, so I let this particular comment slide (nothing would have been gained by pointing out the utter stupidity of the comment coming from what they were saying was a professional) but in doing research I found that there really isn't much that can be done to correct the camber with aftermarket pieces at this time.
Personally I have never had an experience where adjusting alignment would do anything to a car (within reason... Stancing it or putting in strange numbers could obviously affect AWD, wear and tear of suspension pieces etc...) so I found this comment rude and unnecessary. I believe that with a change to around -2 - -2.5 degrees of camber, turn in would be improved and understeer would be reduced safely (at the expense of insignificant tire wear), and help the nose heavy car rotate with more control. Has anyone found camber bolts or plates that can achieve this for the front end? I read somewhere that Jaguar has shims to bring camber back within spec, but I would rather not go to a solution like that.
Also, has anyone found any ways to improve the handling of the car and make it more responsive and stable? I have seen the thread on the Michellin PS2, and had that on my 2013 Porsche Carrera 2S with an amazing improvement, so I know that helps. I have also spoken to Stuart at AP Velocity about the lowering springs (not a great solution to a car that goes over a big driveway curb and will likely see winter driving). Is there anything else I am missing?
I am pretty content with the car as it is as the handling makes you "work" for it a bit more (unlike the evo X which did everything for you), and I like that, but I am finding the car a bit hard to predict.
Thanks in advance for all comments and suggestions!
Sincerely,
Breaker
Not sure if this has been discussed, I went back several pages and didn't really see anything on there.
When I purchased my car I asked for the tech's to give me as much camber as possible during the PDI alignment. When I spoke to the service advisor he said that camber is not adjustable and that if I do change the camber the warranty is void.
I am a pretty careful person when it comes to picking my battles, so I let this particular comment slide (nothing would have been gained by pointing out the utter stupidity of the comment coming from what they were saying was a professional) but in doing research I found that there really isn't much that can be done to correct the camber with aftermarket pieces at this time.
Personally I have never had an experience where adjusting alignment would do anything to a car (within reason... Stancing it or putting in strange numbers could obviously affect AWD, wear and tear of suspension pieces etc...) so I found this comment rude and unnecessary. I believe that with a change to around -2 - -2.5 degrees of camber, turn in would be improved and understeer would be reduced safely (at the expense of insignificant tire wear), and help the nose heavy car rotate with more control. Has anyone found camber bolts or plates that can achieve this for the front end? I read somewhere that Jaguar has shims to bring camber back within spec, but I would rather not go to a solution like that.
Also, has anyone found any ways to improve the handling of the car and make it more responsive and stable? I have seen the thread on the Michellin PS2, and had that on my 2013 Porsche Carrera 2S with an amazing improvement, so I know that helps. I have also spoken to Stuart at AP Velocity about the lowering springs (not a great solution to a car that goes over a big driveway curb and will likely see winter driving). Is there anything else I am missing?
I am pretty content with the car as it is as the handling makes you "work" for it a bit more (unlike the evo X which did everything for you), and I like that, but I am finding the car a bit hard to predict.
Thanks in advance for all comments and suggestions!
Sincerely,
Breaker
#2
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I don't know how much adjustability there is, but setting to the maximum value in the specs wouldn't void the warranty. I expect that 2 to 2.5 degrees negative is outside spec though. I haven't noted any reports of experimentation, but this is something I have thought about. Previous vehicles have responded well to a proper alignment with the right specifications (typically caster and camber set to the factory limit) and even side to side. Tolerances are pretty wide, and left to right have not been well matched as delivered.
#4
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Thanks for the replies! I had the alignment done before delivery and like I said, they did balance it out quite well. I would be happy if there were some camber bolts available but hey, it may take a while before the afternarket starts focusing on this car's handling! Still a very fun ride, and no car has ever put a smile on my face like this one. That exhaust sound is simply magical!
#5
#6
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That's a poor option for me. Not only do the driveways I traverse daily cause problems as it is, there are speed bumps on the sole route from home. Once I get the car back I'll measure clearance, but I think the front overhang means I either keep stock ride height or stop using at least three parking lots, including the one at work.
#7
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Do you know what the range of adjustability is with the rear height adjustment? This is something I wasn't expecting and I assume that small adjustments yield significant change, as most would not want the rear lowered as it changes the COG and PMOI...
Thanks,
Breaker
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#8
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There is a discussion already going on the topic of sway bars / anti roll bars here ==>> https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...nering-143921/ and there is one and only one aftermarket solution for sway bars and they do fit the RWD F-Types no issue.
The open question right now is the front sway bar on the AWD models, the factory part is unique to the AWD F-Type but we don't know if that's because of stiffness or because of a different shape in order to clear the front differential.
Anyone want to order a stock bar take some photos and then return it? p/n T2R7849, should be less that $150 to buy one from a dealer...
The open question right now is the front sway bar on the AWD models, the factory part is unique to the AWD F-Type but we don't know if that's because of stiffness or because of a different shape in order to clear the front differential.
Anyone want to order a stock bar take some photos and then return it? p/n T2R7849, should be less that $150 to buy one from a dealer...
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JgaXkr (08-13-2016)
#9
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but you make no mention of this mod for tracking your car. Are you taking about daily driving? Are you willing to shred your tires for the sake of a bit more daily handling or to save milisecs on the track?
The Michelins are supposed to be revolutionary as it relates to the slippery rear.
The Michelins are supposed to be revolutionary as it relates to the slippery rear.
#10
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Breaker,
I have not yet really started playing with the suspension other than to put lowering springs in it. Lowering the rear by 1.5" resulted in camber exceeding maximum OEM specs by 2/10 of a degree. I have also adjusted front camber to be right at the maximum OEM range.
Polaris, despite the additional camber, my PSSs are showing no uneven wear at 10,000 miles on the new suspension set up. Lots of tread left.
I have not yet really started playing with the suspension other than to put lowering springs in it. Lowering the rear by 1.5" resulted in camber exceeding maximum OEM specs by 2/10 of a degree. I have also adjusted front camber to be right at the maximum OEM range.
Polaris, despite the additional camber, my PSSs are showing no uneven wear at 10,000 miles on the new suspension set up. Lots of tread left.
#11
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You need to be in excess of -3.0 degrees to show uneven tire wear on a Michellin PSS. They are actually designed to have between 1.5 - 3.0 degrees of camber for optimum performance. The fact that you got 10,000 miles on those tires I find rather disappointing. You clearly are not driving FUN enough lol. I don't think I have had a set of tires last more than 5000 miles on a sports car, so that is pretty good!
Unhingd, can you describe at all the change in handling behavior after lowering?
Unhingd, can you describe at all the change in handling behavior after lowering?
#13
#14
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You need to be in excess of -3.0 degrees to show uneven tire wear on a Michellin PSS. They are actually designed to have between 1.5 - 3.0 degrees of camber for optimum performance. The fact that you got 10,000 miles on those tires I find rather disappointing. You clearly are not driving FUN enough lol. I don't think I have had a set of tires last more than 5000 miles on a sports car, so that is pretty good! Only issue is that I now have to aim the car properly when traversing some steep curb cuts. Otherwise, not scraping more than with OEM springs. Lowering the rear (1.5") more than the front (1.2") helps in that regard. Even so, the rear still sits higher than the front. I did not do any before/after g measurements, but it certainly seems more anchored through high speed curves. The slight sensation of float with the OEM setup is gone entirely.
Unhingd, can you describe at all the change in handling behavior after lowering?
Unhingd, can you describe at all the change in handling behavior after lowering?
Only issue is that strategic aiming is now required to traverse steep curb cuts, but otherwise I do not scrape it any more than with the OEM setup. Iattribute that to Lauren get more the rear (1.5") than in front (1.2"). The rear end still sits higher.
I did not do any before/after skid pad testing, but it certainly feels far more surefooted. It no longer exhibits the slight floating sensation through high-speed turns that I experienced with the OEM set up .
Last edited by Unhingd; 08-12-2016 at 07:29 PM.
#16
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Putting a stiffer bar only on the rear is a bit counter intuitive to be honest, most people would say a stiffer bar on the front first, or both together.
#17
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If by "darty" you mean quicker steering response, the answer is yes. It doesn't take as long for the weight to shift and stabilize into the turn.
#18
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Not necessarily. If the car is lifting the inside front tire through a turn, a stiffer rear bar is the solution. A stiffer front bar will exacerbate that issue. I have not seen any videos of F-Types from the proper angle on a racetrack to be able to assess whether stiffer bars front, rear or both are needed.
#19
#20
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That sounds like a project worth pursuing. I may do that after the short shifter is done, but I'll need to find a vacant parking lot to use as a skid pad.