F-Type Jacking Points Exact Location
#61
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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What's confusing to me is that several others have mentioned using a hockey puck. 3 inches in diameter. Without putting my head under the car, I estimate that is at least 0.5 inches too wide to fit.
Oz, what's the diameter of your jack head? And how do you go about getting the jack you just linked under the car with as tall as it is? Do you drive up on a ramp first?
Oz, what's the diameter of your jack head? And how do you go about getting the jack you just linked under the car with as tall as it is? Do you drive up on a ramp first?
The diameter of my jack head is 47 mm or around 1 and 7/8 inches.
That's the part of the head that takes the weight, of course it sits in a "cup" which is a bit wider but sits below the head.
Those linked pics show the jack fully raised, when it's "down" it's quite low and would fit under a very much lowered car. I just measured the minimum height as 85 mm or around 3 and 3/8 inches.
Years ago when I had my old XFS I lowered it on Eibach springs and then discovered that my "normal" trolley jacks were too high to get under the car even at their lowest possible height, so I had to run out and buy a pair of "low entry" jacks. The low entry ones usually cost a fair bit more than the normal ones.
#62
#63
I play in the Guinea Bissau Division. This is where we source our pucks:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#64
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#66
#67
I play in the Guinea Bissau Division. This is where we source our pucks:https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#68
#70
Join Date: Feb 2014
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Getting the car up on 4 jackstands for a lowered F-Type. Let me know if I missed anything.
https://youtu.be/8HYzuslF02w
https://youtu.be/8HYzuslF02w
1. The front jacking points are on the frame rails about 2" in from the sills and not wide enough to fit a large diameter jack head on. My trolley jacks have much smaller heads, approximately 2" wide vs 4" wide.
2. The rear jacking points are the triangular pieces (with the three bolts each) that you have used for the axle stands.
3. The locations of these jacking points are shown by small triangular indents on the undersides of the sills.
4. Those jacking points are designed for emergency roadside use, such as changing out a flat, using the supplied scissor jack. I never use the scissor jack in the garage.
5. My trolley jacks, although "low entry", are nowhere near as big or long as yours so they don't reach the front inner frame rails you used, which rules out that method for me.
6. I would never jack up the rear end using the diff casing as the support point, I would be too worried about possible damage!
7. Once jacked up I put axle stands under the front on the outer frame rail just in front off where the jack is. It's a tight squeeze but not too hard. For the rear I put the axle stands on the inner frame rails, as that triangular piece is already occupied by the jack. Difficult to get them right under and lined up but can be done.
8. It helps to differentiate between jacking points and axle stand points, they are (or should be) two different things. The Owner's Handbook and the Workshop Manual attempt to do this but both botch it completely, showing the same totally wrong diagram (it's from either the XK or the XF) for both.
#71
Completely different to the way I have done it!
1. The front jacking points are on the frame rails about 2" in from the sills and not wide enough to fit a large diameter jack head on. My trolley jacks have much smaller heads, approximately 2" wide vs 4" wide.
2. The rear jacking points are the triangular pieces (with the three bolts each) that you have used for the axle stands.
3. The locations of these jacking points are shown by small triangular indents on the undersides of the sills.
4. Those jacking points are designed for emergency roadside use, such as changing out a flat, using the supplied scissor jack. I never use the scissor jack in the garage.
5. My trolley jacks, although "low entry", are nowhere near as big or long as yours so they don't reach the front inner frame rails you used, which rules out that method for me.
6. I would never jack up the rear end using the diff casing as the support point, I would be too worried about possible damage!
7. Once jacked up I put axle stands under the front on the outer frame rail just in front off where the jack is. It's a tight squeeze but not too hard. For the rear I put the axle stands on the inner frame rails, as that triangular piece is already occupied by the jack. Difficult to get them right under and lined up but can be done.
8. It helps to differentiate between jacking points and axle stand points, they are (or should be) two different things. The Owner's Handbook and the Workshop Manual attempt to do this but both botch it completely, showing the same totally wrong diagram (it's from either the XK or the XF) for both.
1. The front jacking points are on the frame rails about 2" in from the sills and not wide enough to fit a large diameter jack head on. My trolley jacks have much smaller heads, approximately 2" wide vs 4" wide.
2. The rear jacking points are the triangular pieces (with the three bolts each) that you have used for the axle stands.
3. The locations of these jacking points are shown by small triangular indents on the undersides of the sills.
4. Those jacking points are designed for emergency roadside use, such as changing out a flat, using the supplied scissor jack. I never use the scissor jack in the garage.
5. My trolley jacks, although "low entry", are nowhere near as big or long as yours so they don't reach the front inner frame rails you used, which rules out that method for me.
6. I would never jack up the rear end using the diff casing as the support point, I would be too worried about possible damage!
7. Once jacked up I put axle stands under the front on the outer frame rail just in front off where the jack is. It's a tight squeeze but not too hard. For the rear I put the axle stands on the inner frame rails, as that triangular piece is already occupied by the jack. Difficult to get them right under and lined up but can be done.
8. It helps to differentiate between jacking points and axle stand points, they are (or should be) two different things. The Owner's Handbook and the Workshop Manual attempt to do this but both botch it completely, showing the same totally wrong diagram (it's from either the XK or the XF) for both.
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