F Type oil change - DIY
#81
#82
Yea man - I agree. I was just reaching I guess.
Question though man. So given my situation where it says okay but not to the Max line in the morning before start up - would you add a little more or leave it alone?
keep in mind after it runs and I let it cool down for 10-15 minutes it reads perfectly (okay to the Max line)
so that's my dilemma - your opinion please?
Question though man. So given my situation where it says okay but not to the Max line in the morning before start up - would you add a little more or leave it alone?
keep in mind after it runs and I let it cool down for 10-15 minutes it reads perfectly (okay to the Max line)
so that's my dilemma - your opinion please?
#83
Cool man that's refreshing to hear. I am using the liquimoly 0W-20. Didn't really think it was that.
I got a 2016 which requires 6.5 liters but yet had to put 7.2 liters in to get the oil indicator to read correctly.
And still it shows low at times as explained in my previous posts.
I got a 2016 which requires 6.5 liters but yet had to put 7.2 liters in to get the oil indicator to read correctly.
And still it shows low at times as explained in my previous posts.
#84
Yea man - I agree. I was just reaching I guess.
Question though man. So given my situation where it says okay but not to the Max line in the morning before start up - would you add a little more or leave it alone?
keep in mind after it runs and I let it cool down for 10-15 minutes it reads perfectly (okay to the Max line)
so that's my dilemma - your opinion please?
Question though man. So given my situation where it says okay but not to the Max line in the morning before start up - would you add a little more or leave it alone?
keep in mind after it runs and I let it cool down for 10-15 minutes it reads perfectly (okay to the Max line)
so that's my dilemma - your opinion please?
If you find it a quart low after 5000 miles, then be concerned, even then, just regularly checking/adding oil solves it. Unless you have a warranty, then no oil loss should be tolerated.
Its still just a gas burning internal combustion engine like granddad's. That's the good part, the bad part is the wizardry like the oil sonar which is still emerging technology. Its ridiculously silly if you ask me. If you had somehow lost your oil, it wants you to warm up the engine and wait 10 mins, who has that time? plus you would have sized your engine by then.
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FIRE550 (05-31-2020)
#85
Ignore it, dont let it take away from your enjoyment. (been there when it was new)
If you find it a quart low after 5000 miles, then be concerned, even then, just regularly checking/adding oil solves it. Unless you have a warranty, then no oil loss should be tolerated.
Its still just a gas burning internal combustion engine like granddad's. That's the good part, the bad part is the wizardry like the oil sonar which is still emerging technology. Its ridiculously silly if you ask me. If you had somehow lost your oil, it wants you to warm up the engine and wait 10 mins, who has that time? plus you would have sized your engine by then.
If you find it a quart low after 5000 miles, then be concerned, even then, just regularly checking/adding oil solves it. Unless you have a warranty, then no oil loss should be tolerated.
Its still just a gas burning internal combustion engine like granddad's. That's the good part, the bad part is the wizardry like the oil sonar which is still emerging technology. Its ridiculously silly if you ask me. If you had somehow lost your oil, it wants you to warm up the engine and wait 10 mins, who has that time? plus you would have sized your engine by then.
Oh and the darn bonnet fender gaps, although I finally got mine good. Much better then when I bought it.
I don't seem to be burning oil at all and definitely no leaks. My car only has 6500 ish miles on it too. I just got a wacky oil sensor retard. LOL
Like you said man, won't take away my enjoyment from the beast. Love it !!
#86
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#90
#91
That’s why I asked if he had any problems. His post said he switched to Mobil 1 in May. I am using Liqui Moly because it is easier to find. I’m also having engine problems.
#92
I used liqui Moly on a recent oil change and felt like the car ran weird. I gave it like 500 miles and changed it cause it was making me uneasy. Ever since then I been using Ravenol and its been smooth sailing ever since. Could be just my mental mind though .... I guess, lol.
With all that said I didn't and do not have any engine problems. "Knock on wood"
#93
Dam man sorry to hear that. What kind of engine problems?
I used liqui Moly on a recent oil change and felt like the car ran weird. I gave it like 500 miles and changed it cause it was making me uneasy. Ever since then I been using Ravenol and its been smooth sailing ever since. Could be just my mental mind though .... I guess, lol.
With all that said I didn't and do not have any engine problems. "Knock on wood"
I used liqui Moly on a recent oil change and felt like the car ran weird. I gave it like 500 miles and changed it cause it was making me uneasy. Ever since then I been using Ravenol and its been smooth sailing ever since. Could be just my mental mind though .... I guess, lol.
With all that said I didn't and do not have any engine problems. "Knock on wood"
#94
No motor oil that is a 5w20 or 0w20 will cause engine problems. There is WAY too much focus and energy being put into what brand of engine oil is best. They are all good as long as they meet performance engine requirements, which is pretty much all synthetic motor oils found on the shelf of your local Walmart lol
So I would have to disagree that "all synthetic 5w and 0w are good"
Also with that said 5w shouldn't even be used at all in a 2016 model or newer. The car specifically calls for 0w -20
Last edited by FIRE550; 09-02-2020 at 05:18 PM.
#96
Its good to have your own opinions and I can respect that but show some fact to your statement.
#97
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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My 2c worth:
I agree with supersportmtl and disagree with FIRE550.
I have done a helluva lot of research and reading on the AJ133 and AJ126 oil specs and there is masses of info on this very forum about this subject, especially in the XF, XJ and XK sub-forums.
The proof is in the pudding - the "correct" spec oil for my car (Oct 2014 build F-Type V6S) is 0W-20 meeting STJLR.03.5004, but I have never used any oil which meets either of those specs let alone the special Castrol brew. Instead I have only ever used Nulon or Penrite 5W-20 which meets the older JLR spec of Ford M2C925A and/or 945A, the engine runs great and I have never had an engine problem. And that's with the Stage 2 tune putting out 450 hp for the last three years.
I have a number of reasons for choosing those oils which I won't go into here as they are detailed on several other threads on this forum.
I agree with supersportmtl and disagree with FIRE550.
I have done a helluva lot of research and reading on the AJ133 and AJ126 oil specs and there is masses of info on this very forum about this subject, especially in the XF, XJ and XK sub-forums.
The proof is in the pudding - the "correct" spec oil for my car (Oct 2014 build F-Type V6S) is 0W-20 meeting STJLR.03.5004, but I have never used any oil which meets either of those specs let alone the special Castrol brew. Instead I have only ever used Nulon or Penrite 5W-20 which meets the older JLR spec of Ford M2C925A and/or 945A, the engine runs great and I have never had an engine problem. And that's with the Stage 2 tune putting out 450 hp for the last three years.
I have a number of reasons for choosing those oils which I won't go into here as they are detailed on several other threads on this forum.
#98
My 2c worth:
I agree with supersportmtl and disagree with FIRE550.
I have done a helluva lot of research and reading on the AJ133 and AJ126 oil specs and there is masses of info on this very forum about this subject, especially in the XF, XJ and XK sub-forums.
The proof is in the pudding - the "correct" spec oil for my car (Oct 2014 build F-Type V6S) is 0W-20 meeting STJLR.03.5004, but I have never used any oil which meets either of those specs let alone the special Castrol brew. Instead I have only ever used Nulon or Penrite 5W-20 which meets the older JLR spec of Ford M2C925A and/or 945A, the engine runs great and I have never had an engine problem. And that's with the Stage 2 tune putting out 450 hp for the last three years.
I have a number of reasons for choosing those oils which I won't go into here as they are detailed on several other threads on this forum.
I agree with supersportmtl and disagree with FIRE550.
I have done a helluva lot of research and reading on the AJ133 and AJ126 oil specs and there is masses of info on this very forum about this subject, especially in the XF, XJ and XK sub-forums.
The proof is in the pudding - the "correct" spec oil for my car (Oct 2014 build F-Type V6S) is 0W-20 meeting STJLR.03.5004, but I have never used any oil which meets either of those specs let alone the special Castrol brew. Instead I have only ever used Nulon or Penrite 5W-20 which meets the older JLR spec of Ford M2C925A and/or 945A, the engine runs great and I have never had an engine problem. And that's with the Stage 2 tune putting out 450 hp for the last three years.
I have a number of reasons for choosing those oils which I won't go into here as they are detailed on several other threads on this forum.
Just cause you "never had a problem" doesn't mean your not doing long term damage to your engine. I'll stick to the engineers that designed the car and there spec.
Call me crazy but I think they know a tad more then you and the other guy there.
Then again I could care less if you put lawnmower oil in YOUR car.
Thanks for sharing!
#99