Our cap says 5W-20 as well. Owners Manual says 0W-20.

IIRC, the Jag (and Ford 945/947) specification oils include extra additives to prevent wear on the cams and timing chain. So as an example, Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic doesn't meet the spec, but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum does. The oil brands that use Titanium seem to meet the spec, too.

 

Do you realise that "the engineers who designed the car" originally specced 5W-20 for the AJ133? And there have been very few changes to the design since then, although there was one change in 2012 that may possibly explain the switch to 0W-20 (see 1. b) below).
Just to clarify, I will now list my reasons (going from memory here so forgive me if I make any mistakes).
1. The oil spec changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20 some time in 2014, I suspect it was March.
To the best of my knowledge JLR have never explained why the change but the likely reasons are:
a) the lower viscosity when cold 0W-20 gives very slightly better fuel economy on the lab bench tests, maybe 1 or 2 mpg. This better mileage figure was wholly and solely to do with Euro CO2 emissions testing (think car ownership costs such as rego in the UK and Europe) and CAFE testing in the US (think reduced car purchase price).
b). Timing chain wear. This was a problem well known to JLR engineers so they changed the design of the timing chains in 2012 - wider beefier chains, from 6.3 mm to 8.0 mm, better beefier chain guides (including replacing the alu tensioner impact points with steel) and better tensioners. They also suspected that timing chain wear was possibly exacerbated at cold start-up so they figured a lower viscosity when cold oil would lubricate the chains better/faster (it gets to the chains via "squirters" that are fairly thin tubes. Although it's not clear why they didn't spec the thinner oil until two years after the timing chains etc were modified, maybe they thought the new chains would do the trick by themselves. It is my opinion that this is a bit of a furphy and by far the main reason for changing the oil spec to 0W-20 was the improved fuel economy.
c) Oil technology changes/improves very quickly these days so they were "due" for a change of spec.
2. There is zero evidence that the high titanium level in the specced Castrol brew has ever made any difference. Almost all other top spec full synthetic low viscosity oils have low to nil titanium but high molybdenum (moly) instead, including the oils I use. JLR have supposedly justified the high titanium by claiming it works with the cat converters much better than high moly but again I believe this is a furphy. Why have heaps of F-Type owners here had cat problems despite using the specced Castrol brew and I have never had a cat problem despite using high moly / low titanium oils? Are JLR / F-Type cats very different / unique? I doubt it!
3. The specced Castrol oil is pretty much impossible to obtain where I live, other than paying a fortune to bring it in from overseas. No one but no one here in Oz stocks it which is why I call it Unobtainium.
4. The specced Castrol oil costs a fortune compared to the oils I use which are freely available. Because I do 95% very short trips these days (very bad for the oil) I change the oil every six months so I go through a lot of oil.

Edit - I forgot point 5.
I live in a fairly hot climate - lots of days over 100 F in summer and up to 120 F, and very very few times even in winter when it ever gets below freezing (32 F).
So I don't need very low viscosity oil like 0W-20 which is much more suited to very cold climates (think early morning cold start ups) where it often gets below (and well below) freezing. 5W-20 is plenty thin enough for my climate.

 

I respect all your knowledge and DD on the matter, however the fact of the matter is I would just like to put my stock in the manufacturer's recommendation.
I do not use the overprice castrol either but I do use the RAVENOL Jag Spec 0w -20 and its a fantastic price. 8 quarts with oil filter for 105 dollars and free shipping.
I only enquired about mobil 1 because I use that in all my american muscle applications and I wish they had a spec that meets jags specifications. Maybe the Jag spec is snake oil but I still am going to be safe over sorry. I want longevity!

 

I have a similar problem here.
I cannot find anyone here who sells Ravenol or Pennzoil etc that meet the JLR spec, if I could I would try one of them!

 

Guys, there was a posting asking about specifics on the 2.0 (P300). Any additional information on this?

I would like to do a 1,000 mile change with JLR spec oil using the sump drain method. I suspect I'll go to the dealer for a couple drain plugs and the oil filter.

I am able to work on my own vehicle but am looking for something closer to a DIY with the drain plug and filter torque specs. I see the other engines show an 18.4 ft lb oil filter torque.

Anyone have any info or part numbers for these items on the 4-cylinder?

 

I have stuck to the $53 jugs of 0W-20 for the garage queen. Just not looking to save a few bucks on a critical item. Saddened that 5w-20 is HALF THE PRICE though from most sources. My car never sees under 35f so might go with 5W this time around.

 

I just think it's so interesting that the spec is 0w20. I wonder what the oil shears down to in high heat.

It's no secret this is very likely for fuel economy. Yes, there is less internal friction, and maybe you're making 1-2 more horsepower over a 5w30, but it surprises me that this is the recommended oil. We will likely never know the true long term effects on our engines.

 

Neither of those meet the JLR Specs. They need to be labeled Edge Professional OE, otherwise they don't have the prescribed level of titanium,.

 

responding to FIRE550, but didn’t hit the quote

It’s an ongoing issue since July 12th, the last time I drove my car for pleasure. A misfire issue that Can’t be cured. Thanks for the Ravenol advice, just ordered 2 oil change kits for when I do get it going!

 

The misfire -likely an injector issue: have you tried a good fuel system cleaner like the BG44 or Techron or...?

 

It has been to 2 dealers , and an Indy garage . I changed plugs and injectors myself. I thought it funny after I changed plugs, but never drove it. Only started it, the second dealer told me the plugs looked burned. I’m ready to pull it home and take it to a friend. I’ve got $4000 into this repair and it’s the same as when I started ! Thanks for the suggestion!
BACK TO OIL CHANGE, PENNZOIL makes an acceptable oil? After learning about oil and the finicky behavior of Jags pertaining to oil. I will be very guarded In the future when it comes to oil changes if I don’t do it myself

 

Can anyone confirm the drain plug and oil filter torque specs, preferably for the P300? I am having a hard time finding them!

 

The oil filter canister torque is 25 Nm and it's written on the canister. That said I have refitted this canister many times now across XFS, XFR and F-Type (exact same canister and filter element on all of them, probably the same on the four potter but I dunno for sure), gotta be over a dozen times now, and I have never used a torque wrench, instead I just slowly screw it on until it stops abruptly and I have never had a problem with over or under tightening. The only time I ever had a problem was the first time I replaced the oil filter on the XFR, some gorilla had done the canister up super tight and it was a real PITA to remove.
You shouldn't need the sump bolt torque as it's much easier, quicker and cleaner to suck the old oil out using a vacuum pump.

 

I broke down an bought a Mityvac! I did the oil change today. I'll post a thread about it because the 4-cylinder is slightly different than the 6 and 8.

 

FWIW:

Dealers in Britain buy Mobil 1 in bulk now and use that on the F-Types for oil changes and have done so for some time.

The old Oil discussions never seem to die on any forum...it's all smoke and mirrors!

 

Have to say, the F type is the easiest car ever (AJ126 in my case) to do an oil change on.

Total for me to do it first time every was 8 minutes.

Pulled into garage form an errand (fully warm).

Took my new to me mightyvac and removed the oil. That was 4 minutes and took more than 10 pumps...maybe then..then 10...then 4.

Change the filter. And o ring.

Paper towels to prevent slop/drips of course.

Then put the proper oil in with a funnel.

First 6L. Door open and hood up so the level was accessible....then added the 1/2L left.

Perfect. Started her up..

Car said she was happy. This is a game changer.....simple, quick, not dealer needed....now I just need to find a decent 2L bottle to keep around or two for the drive to the parts store....yes I have the 5L bottle from the oil...but I like to push it into one big bottle and be done...etc.

Am using Ravenol ECS 0w-20 which is JLR certified from Blauparts. I like to spoil the F.

 

Now try changing the engine air filters. It will be the most difficult air filter change you've ever done.

Another oil alternative is Mobil 1 0W-20 ESP.

 

Agree...but when I bought the car I had that done. There is so much surface area in the design that I bet they truly don't need changing often....perhaps 50k miles.....mine were actually not bad at 50k miles.....if never changed as I suspect by the prior owner then I am sort of sure it would have gone to 75k..

 

Just want to say to anyone new reading this... you dont need an electronic pump. I managed to pump all the oil out with a simple hand pump in about 5 minutes. No need for any fancy equipment.

 

My oil fitler wrench did break some radiator hoses returning to the reservoir around the throttle body. The lines seem very brittle and it appears the previous owner had an issue with it judging by the hose clamps and extra radiator fittings in the area. Keep in mind.