I just changed the oil on my F-Type and the filter cap is a little confusing to me. I torqued it down to 25 Nm, but the cap has some notations I'm not familiar with. Does anyone know what the +5 and 0 mean between the 25 and the Nm?

 

I would interpret that as 25-30 Nm (I.e. 25 +5/-0). Don’t recall mine looking like that, but I probably just didn’t notice.

 

I have two of these, the original one and a replacement I bought a year or so ago.
I bought the replacement only because I needed to buy a new oil filter and I found an Oz Fleabay listing for the filter plus canister plus mounting bracket, all OEM, for less than the normal price of just the filter, so I bought it. It turned out to be absolutely ridgy didge and it has been on the car ever since with zero problems, with another filter replacement since.
Thing is both the original and the replacement look identical to the one in the pic with the exact same "25 + 5/0Nm" markings.
I for one don't think it means 25 +/- 5 Nm as that is a huge variance in torque, 20%. To my way of thinking (see below) 15 Nm would be stupid loose and 30 Nm would be way over tight.
I have no idea what the 5/0 really means.
All I know for sure is the original canister and housing had purple alignment markings on them, obviously hand drawn in some sort of felt tip pen, and they appeared to me to be factory markings. The first, second and third time I replaced the oil filter (just the filter, not the canister) it felt tight around 2 mm past the alignment of the marks, it didn't feel properly tight until then, and it felt like any further tightening would be risky. Much the same with the new canister, it just turned and turned until suddenly it went real tight.
Bottom line - forget the 25 Nm, just tighten it up until it suddenly goes real tight and Bob's your uncle!

Edit - I didn't read DJS's post properly, he wasn't saying 25 Nm +/- 5 Nm, he was saying 25 Nm "+ maybe another 5 Nm".
Which sorta makes sense seeing as the first few times I fitted a new filter the canister went around 2 mm past the alignment marks before it went tight.
So maybe, just maybe, those cryptic markings mean "between 25 and 30 Nm whatever feels right to you".

 

+1

With the new sealing o-rings supplied with most replacement filters, the cover will seal fine, without excessive force. 25 Nm to me is three fingers on the ratchet when tightening.

As usual, it is Good Practice to check for leaks after the first drive, post-service...

 

Thanks much for your input. I don't know why Jaguar is always so 'mystic' with things - or at least offer a repair manual for us 'backyard mechanics'. I, for one, wouldn't feel very secure just tightening things by feel. I definitely torque to specifications.
Just an aside - I replaced a BMW head gasket once and came across a new configuration. First you had to torque down the head bolts in a particular sequence then go back and tighten them 45 degrees past the torque. Apparently they use bolts that need to be stretched. I read Jaguar uses the following;
Cylinder Head Bolts
Step 1 (8 & 10 mm Bolts)........Hand Tight
Step 2 (10 mm Bolts)............Ft.Lbs 15 N.m(20)
Step 3 (10 mm Bolts)....................26 (35)
Step 4 (10 mm Bolts).............Additional 90 Degrees
Step 5 (10 mm Bolts).............Additional 90 Degrees
Step 6 (8 mm Bolts)...................17-20 (23-27)

 

Thanks for the input. I'm a fan of the torque wrench. Going by feel always left me feeling a little insecure.

I noticed your little quote about cats - have you ever heard;
Since we feed, house, doctor, and generally take care of dogs, they think we are Gods.
Since we feed, house, doctor, and generally take care of cats, they think they are Gods.

 

You can use a paint marker to put a small alignment line on the cap and flange and put it back in the same place.

 

This is true for every cylinder head bolt.