F-type r AWD died engine
#21
What I think happened is a licensed mechanic told you not to drive it and you drove it anyway. Then, you added WAY TOO MUCH OIL and the engine basically whipped the oil up into a frothy mess. By adding more oil, your car had less usable oil, and your engine is now a boat anchor. A quart too much oil can be much worse than a quart too little oil.
#23
#25
#26
#27
The following 4 users liked this post by Unhingd:
#28
5800 pounds sterling in the UK
$8800 in the US
#29
#30
I dont think the cause of failure was the timing chain.
When the timing chain jumps, the restricted performance light comes on, power drops and you can drive home. Several have done it.
And you dont get a puddle of oil under the car.
The excess oil caused the failure in addition to whatever else was wrong in the first place.
And the noise occurring under acceleration tells me it was cam actuator.
When the timing chain jumps, the restricted performance light comes on, power drops and you can drive home. Several have done it.
And you dont get a puddle of oil under the car.
The excess oil caused the failure in addition to whatever else was wrong in the first place.
And the noise occurring under acceleration tells me it was cam actuator.
Last edited by Queen and Country; 02-15-2019 at 04:23 AM.
#31
Brand new short block: https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.ph...t=&xPerPage=10
5800 pounds sterling in the UK
$8800 in the US
#32
#35
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#36
im new in cars
they said there is 2 part in my engine
strip engine and shortblock engine(lower)
and i need to change it
Last edited by mohammed m; 02-19-2019 at 02:46 AM.
#37
#38
You need entire engine (long block) instead of just short block. You shouldn't reuse old heads as failure sent metal chunks throughout your engine.
Here is what likely happened to your engine. You overfilled by a lot then pushed the car, at that point oil was hitting crank and got aerated (think whipped cream). This in turn starved crank bearings from lubrication and they overheated, spun (that was noise you were hearing) and then got welded by heat due to friction to block. That entire process sent mental through your engine gumming up hydraulic lifters, adjustable timing gear, damaging rings, valve seals, cams... sorry, it is all junk and no saving it.
#39
You need entire engine (long block) instead of just short block. You shouldn't reuse old heads as failure sent metal chunks throughout your engine.
Here is what likely happened to your engine. You overfilled by a lot then pushed the car, at that point oil was hitting crank and got aerated (think whipped cream). This in turn starved crank bearings from lubrication and they overheated, spun (that was noise you were hearing) and then got welded by heat due to friction to block. That entire process sent mental through your engine gumming up hydraulic lifters, adjustable timing gear, damaging rings, valve seals, cams... sorry, it is all junk and no saving it.
Here is what likely happened to your engine. You overfilled by a lot then pushed the car, at that point oil was hitting crank and got aerated (think whipped cream). This in turn starved crank bearings from lubrication and they overheated, spun (that was noise you were hearing) and then got welded by heat due to friction to block. That entire process sent mental through your engine gumming up hydraulic lifters, adjustable timing gear, damaging rings, valve seals, cams... sorry, it is all junk and no saving it.
Mohammed, AJ812891 is the specific part number for the short block. AJ133 refers to the engine designation for V8s produced post-2008.
#40
The issue I see is variable cam timing and hydraulic lifters. You can't determine if they work correctly by inspection (at least I don't know how to simulate oil pressure and bench test it), and if you are paying for labor, trying old parts on could get very expensive.