Hi everyone. I'm in the market for an F-Type having found no other 2 door convertible that looks as nice and sounds as good. My daily drive is my Genesis which is pretty much bulletproof, so this will only get driven on nice sunny days over the summer. I got a chance to drive a base and an S model and made the decision on either an S, 400 or perhaps even an R if I can get one in my price range. Most of my dilemma surrounds the CPO / Aftermarket warranty situation. I've read through all the threads I could find in the last 2 years that came up in the search.

My budget is around $60,000 which will net me a 2017 - 2018 CPO S model and maybe even a CPO 400 if I find one at the right price. I could as move up to an R if I dropped the CPO requirement or even save myself the CPO premium if I went with one that was just out of warranty. From my reading these little buggers are pretty reliable except for the plastic coolant lines that it appears we redesigned / fixed for the 2016 model year. Of course I've seen those poor souls that got one that isn't, but for the most part, it appears that the "Jaguar's are unreliable" went out the window years ago.

I've always been a BMW guy because I loved the way they drove, but after owning 3, the last of which was bleeding me dry I gave up on them. I had purchased an extended warranty when I bought it, but if it broke on a Thursday, they only covered Wednesdays. Crap like that really soured me to aftermarket warranties.

On the flip side, the CPO would give me some great piece of mind against major failures such as a blown engine, transmission, etc. But I'm not a huge fan of the dealer pulling that "up to" crap on me when I was there in the showroom. I was also a little annoyed when I called Jaguar about a warranty on a 2016 model year that wasn't put on the road until 2017. Apparently according to Jaguar, "in service" doesn't necessarily mean when someone put it "in service". Wrap your head around that one. "Sorry sir, but that car is out of warranty".

The CPO seems to add anywhere from $6 - $10k to the price depending on how much warranty is left on the car. That's pretty damn expensive if you ask me. I'll go invest the $10k or something and pray nothing goes wrong. I just don't want to be one of the unlucky ones with a $25,000 engine replacement bill. That would be just my luck.

Anyway, I guess my question is has anyone found a reputable aftermarket warranty company? Anyone have any real world experience with pricing or reputation on these companies? Online searches just net me click bait websites trying to get the revenue by posting links to warranty companies.

Thanks everyone. I hope to be more than an observer in the next month or so!

 

My understanding is that provided the car is still within the opriginal warranty period ( 60 months from original in-service), then you can
pay for a CPO analysis(est $2.5K), plus presumably any required repairs, then pay for warranty extension for upto 2 additional years.

 

I purchased an extended after market warranty but haven't had to and hope to never have to use it so I don't know if it is any good. My cousin works at the dealer and said it was a very good aftermarket but again really don't know. It ran me $2500 for 4 years and 0 deductible-worth the gamble.

 

From talking to a dealer, apparently they have changed their standards on the CPO process. The website says you need 1 month or 1,000 miles to be eligible, but the woman I spoke to told me they have changed the requirements. The car can't have any more than 25,000 miles and still be eligible for certification. I'm not sure if there any other restrictions or not.

 

None that stayed in business. For a short while COSTCO offered warranties and everyone rushed to buy one - they no longer offer them. I heard that CARMAX warranties are also good, but you have to buy car from them to qualify.

So your choices CPO and JLR extended warranty or CARMAX.

However, unreliability of F-type is greatly exaggerated. I am also a fellow ex-BMW enthusiast, coming from that ****-show, F-type is outright reliable. Just make sure to do early oil changes and use correct spec oil (not just any 0w20 will do).

 

Have not heard about this. They could be BSing you, something in the car history (e.g. tuning, accidents) makes it ineligible and they are lying to you about the reason.

Ask to see Carfax.

 

The F-Type is my 4th Jaguar (previously 2001 XK8, 2004 XKR, 2010 XKR) and I've found them all to be reliable. They had some issues, but nothing horrendous, apart from the 2004 XKR which burst an oil pipe on the way home and I managed to get it home before the oil all drained away. I had it trailered to my favourite independent who was a bit concerned about an engine replacement, but he replaced the broken pipe, filled it with oil and started it up. He said it made a few strange noises initially but it soon quietened down and ran perfectly. He reckoned I should buy a lottery ticket with that luck, but overlooked the fact that i'd used it al up! Anyway, oil change at 500 miles to make sure all was well, which is was, and no further trouble after that. The car had done over 90,000 miles, BTW, so it deserved to be a bit naughty at that mileage, I reckon. It's ignorant people's view of reliability that makes them so affordable used - a lot of car for the money!

 

From all my reading, it appears as though the Maxcare is a pretty good warranty. My problem is the only F-Type convertible they have right now is black. I've had more black cars than I can shake a stick at and I'm pretty much done with that color. They look great when detailed, but 5 minutes later they are dirty again.

Thanks everyone for the help so far. I'm narrowing it down so hopefully soon.

 

We paid for our 328xi twice.

Another option is to buy a car which was sold CPO to a previous person. CPO transfers to you and then you can extend it if you are still in the factory warranty period. Ours was 4 months and 5,000 miles from the end of the factory warranty but had a 1 year CPO already attached. Got a ‘16 R for $45.5.

You never want to have to say “I coulda had a V8”.

 

Last time I was at Carmax was last summer, helping someone select a car. There were two F-Types there, probably recent lease returns given that they were just three years old. I expect they get a small but steady supply of them, and they'll transport cars for free from other sites that are close. They'll transport from farther afield too, with no obligation other than to pay the transport fees. They were easy to work with, but we only dealt with one representative so I can't say if that's the exception or the rule.

 

I have just one comment to make to the OP and it does not concern the warranty. It relates to his intention to use the F-Type on an intermittent basis rather than as an every day driver. That being the case, I would strongly suggest that a CTEK battery maintainer (or similar) be permanently fitted to the car and used when the car is not in service. Yes, there are some on this list who will say that they do not do this and that they have never had a problem.
But the fact remains that these cars (and all modern luxury cars) have multiple electronic modules that thrive on full voltage supply and which misbehave when they do not get it. And they cleverly disguise the real cause of their unhappiness (low battery voltage) by joining with other modules to create havoc, making the owner think that he has bought a lemon. This feeds nicely into the undying myth of Jaguar unreliability.

Even dealers are very reluctant to go to the source of the problem (the battery), preferring to go into elaborate testing procedures, replacing parts unnecessarily and often taking months to come to the realization that the fault lay with the battery in the first place. A used car in particular should be examined with regard to battery performance. Batteries can test as good but fail a load test; batteries that have sat unused may never be brought to full charge; new batteries must be considered to be partially discharged until the owner charges the battery fully. The clerk behind the counter will always say the battery is fully charged; it almost certainly will not be. And infrequent use especially when combined with short trips will guarantee that the battery never reaches full charge and will also guarantee further problems (see above).

An F-Type with a fully charged battery is a very happy car; and there is no car like a happy F-Type!
I say this as a recovering BMW owner.

 

I was asking myself exactly the same questions whilst shopping. I purchased last week from Carmax. I specifically went there because of the extended warranty they offer. I ended up paying just over $60K for a 2017 R, 24K miles, purchased a 5yr/100k miles extended warranty with a $500 deductible for under $3K, to me that was a bargain to have the peace of mind should something expensive break. Similar vehicles via JLR were listing for $69K+ and would have had shorter warranty periods.

Ironically after purchasing, I went to JLR to confirm service history and warranty on the vehicle, and it was sold in 2020 as a CPO, so actually has factory warranty until 2022, and CPO extends it to 2023! If you only need a couple years warranty you might be able to find a CPO vehicle being sold via carmax or another seller which still has the warranty on it.

I agree the premium JLR charge for CPO doesn't seem worth it. I will have mine serviced at JLR from here, but feel like I was able to get the car at a good price, and like having the peace of mind with the maxcare warranty!

 

I had a 330 x-drive and then a tuned 335 x-drive. I was replacing crap on those cars that no one should ever have to replace on a vehicle. Rear suspensions, water pumps, fuel injectors, motor mounts, vanos solenoids and the list goes on and on. The 335 was an absolute blast to drive and with the chip hauled a$$, but holy crap it was unreliable.

I'm leaning towards the R now too having pretty much decided that the CPO isn't worth the premium.


I saw they had one in Colorado that lasted about an hour. I signed myself up for their alerts, so I'm guessing I should get an email when one is added. It appears that they go pretty quickly.

Thanks for the help! I've been reading all about them and have them on my list. There appears to be some confusion about the correct way to hook them up, so I'm still digging through that part. It looks like you don't want to hook them up to the battery directly because the battery monitoring stuff gets confused. It looks like they are supposed to go between the ground strap and a distribution block in the trunk.

Either way, great tip and it affirms my thoughts of adding one, provided I ever find what I want.

Thanks to all of you for the excellent advice.

 

Given the concern about warranty and with a budget of 60,000 USD, you might look at new inventory.

When I bought my 21 F-type last July, my dealer had a red 2020 convertible. They were offering a $10,000.00 discount at that time. They still have that car. It might be possible to have a really good deal on a similar situation near you,

Otherwise, make the deal with these guys and make a road trip. Take Amtrak if you've never ridden a train. If the NCAA decides to allow attendance you could come see the College World Series and drive home in a brand new car.

 

Weird. I posted something earlier and it said it had to be moderated and never showed up. I'm wondering if this will work.

Anyway, can someone shed some light on something for me? I thought the R was supposed to be the V8? There is a 2018 I found that has all the R Dynamic badging, but the listing says V6. It also appears as though the VIN on Carfax shows up as a V6 but also says R-Dynamic. I'm wondering if someone rebadged it and the dealer doesn't know?

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...ngId=582187243

 

The R-Dynamic is the 6-Cyl, kinda confusing but the -Dynamic bit means it's a 6, rather than the 8. The R AWD is what you're after if you want the R. Though I heard the 2015 R RWD is awesome in its own right

 

Gotcha. That definitely is confusing.

The older ones scare me a little with the plastic coolant line issues. That also gives it more time to clog up the top drain holes, which appears to be a reoccurring issue for people that don't know about checking them.

I'm not sure if I want the S or the R. I haven't driven an R, so it's the old "You don't miss what you never had" thing. I guess it depends on what I can find and how much I'm willing to spend to get it. The S would save me probably $8-10k.

 

Good luck in your search - they can take some time! Driven an S yet? More bang for your buck in most cases, you'd be happy with either, the R AWD is a civilized beast.

 

Thanks! I've driven the base and then an S. The base was CPO, but they wanted way too much for it and then pulled the "up to 7 year" thing on me when we were discussing pricing. I opted to walk. The S I drove was a car brought into Pennsylvania from New York. I'm assuming it was a city car because the paint was absolutely terrible. I passed on that one.

Ideally what I'd want if everything worked out perfectly would probably be the AWD R in Red, but the only one for sale is over what I want to spend and on the other side of the country. Freakin' gorgeous though.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...ngId=581790867

 

My powers of rationalization would have me on the next plane. Beautiful car.