F-Type Stereo System Upgrade Planning
#321
I went to the same solution as nitro28
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!
#323
[QUOTE=tscjoki;2408535]I went to the same solution as nitro28
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!
[/QUOTE
Most likely because those speakers are literally only getting a few watts from the factory amp. Are you feed the new subwoofer unit the signal from those subs, if so try the signal out from the 200mm door speakers, you might be surprised.
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!
[/QUOTE
Most likely because those speakers are literally only getting a few watts from the factory amp. Are you feed the new subwoofer unit the signal from those subs, if so try the signal out from the 200mm door speakers, you might be surprised.
#324
#325
[QUOTE=Jag Bass;2408731]
That's what I did :-)
Because the rear speakers are using two channels, I simply took those from the front doors.
I went to the same solution as nitro28
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!
[/QUOTE
Most likely because those speakers are literally only getting a few watts from the factory amp. Are you feed the new subwoofer unit the signal from those subs, if so try the signal out from the 200mm door speakers, you might be surprised.
After changing all speakers including those in the rear , I was still missing that bit of punch at low volume.
I found a 10' Sub, that was even smaller than the one used by nitro28 , the Ampire 10SL (only 5.5 cm high, one ,if not the smallest one you can buy)
You can also buy it in 8' , with even smaller dimensions.
Hugh difference !!
[/QUOTE
Most likely because those speakers are literally only getting a few watts from the factory amp. Are you feed the new subwoofer unit the signal from those subs, if so try the signal out from the 200mm door speakers, you might be surprised.
Because the rear speakers are using two channels, I simply took those from the front doors.
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bcbruno (04-16-2022)
#326
I would like to do possibly something as well but would want to keep it minimum. I am shocked how inadequate the Meridian system is in this car. I just bought an old Montero XLS and just replaced the head unit with a touch screen while the rest of the system is stock and it sounds amazing compared to the Jag.
#327
I would like to do possibly something as well but would want to keep it minimum. I am shocked how inadequate the Meridian system is in this car. I just bought an old Montero XLS and just replaced the head unit with a touch screen while the rest of the system is stock and it sounds amazing compared to the Jag.
The minimum you can do, is replacing the door speakers with those of the premium Jaguar series, mentioned in this thread.
This will be about 500€ and will already be a great difference.
It is done very easily as they are plug n' play
#328
Another Powered Subwoofer Option
Just wanted to add my 2c to the substandard bass problem with the F-type. I had the AAM Equalizer TSB (JTB00537NAS2) applied and if I were kind I'd say it maybe was a little better but not night and day by any means. I wasn't after window shattering bass that makes the whole car vibrate and rattle like you're deaf at a set of lights to impress people but just wanted more thump and some tight punch at lower volumes without distortion. I installed the same subwoofer in the trunk of my RX8 with good results so I thought I'd give it a try in the F-type. Some people have been deterred from putting a sub in the trunk for fear of more rattles.
I read Nitro28's post in detail but didn't want to do all that work making my own bracket to hang a subwoofer behind the seat(s). Hate working in tight spaces. So I installed a MTX 8" powered subwoofer ($160) in the trunk. The unit doesn't take up a lot of space and I took the +12V constant supply from the distribution box in the trunk and ran it along the right side after removing the trim. I also removed a nut from the floor in the trunk, sanded to bare metal to hook a good ground connection. I could not find a 12V switched supply at the fuse box in the trunk so had to run a wire from the fuse box at the passenger (right side) foot well. I tapped into the high (speaker) level outputs that go to the native subwoofer just like Nitro28 described but instead of the middle wires that he used (those are channel 2 for the dual cone "subwoofers" on each side) I used Channel 1. The relevant colors are given in the diagram attached. It probably doesn't really matter if you use Channel 1 or 2.
I did have some rattles coming from the back trim somewhere before the install so I bought a box of Dynamat ($60) to stick onto the metal partition around and behind the original speakers as in the photos. I DID NOT Dynamat the plastic trim pieces, the trunk area or doors. That stuff is expensive so I thought I'd see if it were enough.
The car is transformed by this subwoofer!! The bass is plentiful (you can adjust the low pass frequency (LPF) and gain to your liking) and there' enough tight punch for my liking. I used to have the subwoofer setting to +3 on the infotainment unit with resulting poor bass and distortion from those rear speakers. Now I have the subwoofer set to 0 on the infotainment and adjusted the gain on the new sub to my liking and it sounds awesome. And even better...I don't hear any rattles from the trim or parcel shelf or anything with the limited Dynamat that I placed. I'm super happy with the result for <$250 including a wiring kit, connectors and a few hours of work.
This is the only area I used Dynamat on
I tapped a switched 12V trigger to this fuse box and ran the wire to the trunk under the carpet
Wiring diagram for speakers showing colors for the +/- terminals for L and R Channels 1 & 2. Used Channel 1.
After removing the trim from the trunk I ran the red 8 gauge 12V power wire along the right side. I did not Dynamat anything back here
Here's the final product. Pretty clean I think
Still more than 1/2 of the original trunk space left after the install
I read Nitro28's post in detail but didn't want to do all that work making my own bracket to hang a subwoofer behind the seat(s). Hate working in tight spaces. So I installed a MTX 8" powered subwoofer ($160) in the trunk. The unit doesn't take up a lot of space and I took the +12V constant supply from the distribution box in the trunk and ran it along the right side after removing the trim. I also removed a nut from the floor in the trunk, sanded to bare metal to hook a good ground connection. I could not find a 12V switched supply at the fuse box in the trunk so had to run a wire from the fuse box at the passenger (right side) foot well. I tapped into the high (speaker) level outputs that go to the native subwoofer just like Nitro28 described but instead of the middle wires that he used (those are channel 2 for the dual cone "subwoofers" on each side) I used Channel 1. The relevant colors are given in the diagram attached. It probably doesn't really matter if you use Channel 1 or 2.
I did have some rattles coming from the back trim somewhere before the install so I bought a box of Dynamat ($60) to stick onto the metal partition around and behind the original speakers as in the photos. I DID NOT Dynamat the plastic trim pieces, the trunk area or doors. That stuff is expensive so I thought I'd see if it were enough.
The car is transformed by this subwoofer!! The bass is plentiful (you can adjust the low pass frequency (LPF) and gain to your liking) and there' enough tight punch for my liking. I used to have the subwoofer setting to +3 on the infotainment unit with resulting poor bass and distortion from those rear speakers. Now I have the subwoofer set to 0 on the infotainment and adjusted the gain on the new sub to my liking and it sounds awesome. And even better...I don't hear any rattles from the trim or parcel shelf or anything with the limited Dynamat that I placed. I'm super happy with the result for <$250 including a wiring kit, connectors and a few hours of work.
This is the only area I used Dynamat on
I tapped a switched 12V trigger to this fuse box and ran the wire to the trunk under the carpet
Wiring diagram for speakers showing colors for the +/- terminals for L and R Channels 1 & 2. Used Channel 1.
After removing the trim from the trunk I ran the red 8 gauge 12V power wire along the right side. I did not Dynamat anything back here
Here's the final product. Pretty clean I think
Still more than 1/2 of the original trunk space left after the install
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DJS (08-20-2021)
#329
Good job, now if you switch your signal source the door woofer to feed your mtx unit, your bass output will increase. You are leaving a lot on the table using the sub speakers signal.
In an email to me from JLR engineering they stated the following due to my findings that the rear sub speaker level voltage is extremely low:
"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."
He said they actually increased the voltage to the rear subs from the 20MY to the 21MY F-Types to enhance the overall audio experience. This will come nowhere close to adding your own seperate combo sub/amp or seperate sub/amp.
In an email to me from JLR engineering they stated the following due to my findings that the rear sub speaker level voltage is extremely low:
"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."
He said they actually increased the voltage to the rear subs from the 20MY to the 21MY F-Types to enhance the overall audio experience. This will come nowhere close to adding your own seperate combo sub/amp or seperate sub/amp.
#330
Good job, now if you switch your signal source the door woofer to feed your mtx unit, your bass output will increase. You are leaving a lot on the table using the sub speakers signal.
In an email to me from JLR engineering they stated the following due to my findings that the rear sub speaker level voltage is extremely low:
"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."
He said they actually increased the voltage to the rear subs from the 20MY to the 21MY F-Types to enhance the overall audio experience. This will come nowhere close to adding your own seperate combo sub/amp or seperate sub/amp.
In an email to me from JLR engineering they stated the following due to my findings that the rear sub speaker level voltage is extremely low:
"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."
He said they actually increased the voltage to the rear subs from the 20MY to the 21MY F-Types to enhance the overall audio experience. This will come nowhere close to adding your own seperate combo sub/amp or seperate sub/amp.
#331
#332
#333
#334
Has anyone upgraded their F-Type stereo with aftermarket components? I've done this in each of my cars no mater the difficulty presented. In the case of the F-Type, since the audio system is very much integrated with other systems, I do not plan on changing the head unit. However I will certainly figure best way to upgrade the sound quality by changing speakers and adding amplifiers. If anyone has experience with upgrading the stereo system in this vehicle, please discuss the speakers you chose and where did you find room for better subs?
Does anyone know where the audio system components are located in the vehicle (amplifier, XM tuner, bluetooth modules, etc.)?
Also does anyone know if there is access to full-range line level before the amplifier? If not, has anyone used a summing component such as JL Cleansweep to obtain signals from bass, mids, and highs outputs?
Finally, does anyone know if there is a way to disable the compression circuitry?
Does anyone have any photos of the door panels removed and the rear speaker grills removed? Curious how much space is behind these areas before we start taking stuff apart next week.
Thanks,
Craig
Does anyone know where the audio system components are located in the vehicle (amplifier, XM tuner, bluetooth modules, etc.)?
Also does anyone know if there is access to full-range line level before the amplifier? If not, has anyone used a summing component such as JL Cleansweep to obtain signals from bass, mids, and highs outputs?
Finally, does anyone know if there is a way to disable the compression circuitry?
Does anyone have any photos of the door panels removed and the rear speaker grills removed? Curious how much space is behind these areas before we start taking stuff apart next week.
Thanks,
Craig
I have a 2016 F-Type S and I kept the head unit but replace the rest of the system. I’d be happy to chat with you about the components and work I did if your still interested.
Scott
#336
Good job, now if you switch your signal source the door woofer to feed your mtx unit, your bass output will increase. You are leaving a lot on the table using the sub speakers signal.
In an email to me from JLR engineering they stated the following due to my findings that the rear sub speaker level voltage is extremely low:
"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."
He said they actually increased the voltage to the rear subs from the 20MY to the 21MY F-Types to enhance the overall audio experience. This will come nowhere close to adding your own seperate combo sub/amp or seperate sub/amp.
In an email to me from JLR engineering they stated the following due to my findings that the rear sub speaker level voltage is extremely low:
"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."
He said they actually increased the voltage to the rear subs from the 20MY to the 21MY F-Types to enhance the overall audio experience. This will come nowhere close to adding your own seperate combo sub/amp or seperate sub/amp.
I'm looking to ditch the rear subwoofer signal and feed my new rear subwoofers from the door woofer signal as well. Still learning a lot.. lol.
#337
Wiring diagram is in the post above #328 which tell you the correct wire colour to tap into. You have to unwrap the speaker wire harness to get to the right colour.
you are not driving another speaker from the door woofers so you are not halving the impedance. You are just collecting a high level signal and then converting to a low level before passing to your amp of your choice
you are not driving another speaker from the door woofers so you are not halving the impedance. You are just collecting a high level signal and then converting to a low level before passing to your amp of your choice
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Jag Bass (07-05-2022)
#338
"The actual operational range of the rear subwoofers is up to 30Hz, above 30Hz is the transitional range affected by the attenuation that will cause the subwoofer to stop playing. The speaker's output level is subjected to a smooth slope attenuation with the frequency level increment above 30Hz, and this soft drop still allows a little diffuse music to be heard up to a certain frequency."
#339
So a 30Hz low-pass crossover point at some unknown slope on the rear subs. That's silly since most music contains very little content below 30Hz. It sure would be nice to confirm that the door woofers don't have a low end filter. Though I guess if you use a DSP capable of taking in all 8 channels it doesn't matter.
#340
Wiring diagram is in the post above #328 which tell you the correct wire colour to tap into. You have to unwrap the speaker wire harness to get to the right colour.
you are not driving another speaker from the door woofers so you are not halving the impedance. You are just collecting a high level signal and then converting to a low level before passing to your amp of your choice
you are not driving another speaker from the door woofers so you are not halving the impedance. You are just collecting a high level signal and then converting to a low level before passing to your amp of your choice